Builds The '93 Troopy Hodgepodge (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

That is a clean engine bay.

Keep up the good work.





Juan

 

[SNLC]

All the way down on the bumps (nearly anyways).

We are starting to get the suspension dialed in. Dropping the bumps all around about an inch is part of that. Dropping the front sway bar about the same as well to clear front driveline at full droop. Also modifying the front corners at the wheel well on the ARB front bumper.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

We like this ride height with the 285’s, maybe just 1-1 1/2” higher in the rear.

We have been using this manifold on a few builds now for trans, tcase and diff breathers. It is a chunk of machined billet with five in ports and one out for your filter/breather. As you can see we are using an OEM “jiggle valve” style breather for the intake port. It can be mounted anywhere but we decided here is pretty good on this build.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

.5* of rake with rear up. I personally like a Cruiser with 1-2* loaded or unloaded. Not quite level but no stink bug, don’t like stinky bug.

Obviously long ways to go for finished weight on this Troopy, we got to start somewhere though. Being 80-series suspension there are dozens of choices on coils which in my opinion is excellent. The Troopy will be a little harder to dial in coil springs wise though vs the other 80/70-series builds we have done. Simply because those were heavy in front and light in the rear. The Troopy is heavy in front and medium in the rear currently but obviously can turn into extra heavy in the rear once built out and full up for a trip. Progressive springs worked well in the rear on the others. We have been playing with coils we have around the shop on Troopy, currently OME 850x up front and 860 rear, rear is to soft though.

That’s all we need to buy though to finish out suspension, coil springs which for an 80 are $100-200 a corner.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Here are some measurements, compare if you have an HZJ75 Troopy on 33’s. Don’t think I took measurements when this thing showed up from Central America on clapped out wheels/tires/suspension.

Front wheel well

Rear wheel well

Bottom of rocker and doors.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Center of hood and ARB.

I think it is proper here for proportions and the 285 tire size. Good up and down travel on the shocks as well.

When we build these they are always custom. Coil’s selection always come last. We have tried different body on chassis heights and there are limiting factors as well. Such as where the rear wheel well inner pinch weld lands on the frame. It is the same be it a 73, 77/76, Troopy or even a 60-series. That pinch weld lands on top of the rear frame rails and suspension, you can only go so low without major cutting of the body here. Then you can set the front with built in stink bug (the front body mounts lower) and compensate with suspension to level it all out. We don’t like this method so we carry the body fairly level front to rear when building body mounts.

On the pickups you have much more flexibility as to body mounts and their height since the beds be it long or short don’t conflict so much with the rear chassis and suspension. We are talking exhaust clearances here too when running 3” exhaust.

Due to all this there is no “cookie cutter” on these chassis swap builds. Meaning you can’t say, oh I will just buy a lift kit for 2” that suits an 80 with bumpers. However once you do get the coil springs dialed you just stick with that for the life of the Cruiser. Or…great thing about 80-suspension, want to run 37’s?! No problem, just buy the correct coils, drop the bumps the needed amount and adjust the suspension control arms. Or anything in between too! It’s A LOT easier to play with for all kinds of weight and heights vs leaf springs.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

There has been some drama when it comes to gullwings, no need to get into it.

This is what is going in though at all four cargo windows.

Cheers

 

[Dirk S.]

Center of hood and ARB.

View attachment 3941793

I think it is proper here for proportions and the 285 tire size. Good up and down travel on the shocks as well.

When we build these they are always custom. Coil’s selection always come last. We have tried different body on chassis heights and there are limiting factors as well. Such as where the rear wheel well inner pinch weld lands on the frame. It is the same be it a 73, 77/76, Troopy or even a 60-series. That pinch weld lands on top of the rear frame rails and suspension, you can only go so low without major cutting of the body here. Then you can set the front with built in stink bug (the front body mounts lower) and compensate with suspension to level it all out. We don’t like this method so we carry the body fairly level front to rear when building body mounts.

On the pickups you have much more flexibility as to body mounts and their height since the beds be it long or short don’t conflict so much with the rear chassis and suspension. We are talking exhaust clearances here too when running 3” exhaust.

Due to all this there is no “cookie cutter” on these chassis swap builds. Meaning you can’t say, oh I will just buy a lift kit for 2” that suits an 80 with bumpers. However once you do get the coil springs dialed you just stick with that for the life of the Cruiser. Or…great thing about 80-suspension, want to run 37’s?! No problem, just buy the correct coils, drop the bumps the needed amount and adjust the suspension control arms. Or anything in between too! It’s A LOT easier to play with for all kinds of weight and heights vs leaf springs.

Cheers

Ian, please talk about "air bags" as an option for adopting to different load conditions. thanks, Dirk

 

[SNLC]

Ian, please talk about "air bags" as an option for adopting to different load conditions. thanks, Dirk

Absolutely an option.

Cheers

 

[Tennessee Jed]

What brand of gullwings did you go with? Did you have a bad experience with another company? I pry into this only because I'm getting gullwings this year for mine.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

What brand of gullwings did you go with? Did you have a bad experience with another company? I pry into this only because I'm getting gullwings this year for mine.

Looks like Mission4x4 glass option.

LMK if you want to get rid of your stock sliders. I'd like sliders in the middle of mine as mine are fixed/solid.

 

[Dirk S.]

What brand of gullwings did you go with? Did you have a bad experience with another company? I pry into this only because I'm getting gullwings this year for mine.

I went with Mission 4x4 glass gull wings on all four windows. Sean, from Mission 4x4 is a stand-up guy, does what he says and he produces quality products. I think his gull wings are a little more robust than the Explore Glazing product and I prefer his method of installation (no drilling holes). I also spent months trying to work with Emu wing, I finally gave up. ( in hindsight I am glad that things didn't work out with them.)

 

[SNLC]

Full droop front & rear.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[Broski]

View attachment 3946069
View attachment 3946070
View attachment 3946071

Cheers

Those are nice !

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

tsk tsk, drilling holes in that nice paint job!

 

[MANUCHAO]

what brand Ian ?
amazing work you doing with this rig !!!!!

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers