Builds The 75 Musturd Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[kbahus]

You guys are awesome. I will keep that tank just in case this poly one doesn't work out. Pinhead, If that carb you have is functional I would be glad to buy it from you. I would also be glad to donate this one to sggoat for parts.

 

[kbahus]

The infamous You Tube demo carb arrived today, thanks again Pin_Head! Hopefully I can get it installed tomorrow, will post an update when it happens.

 

[kbahus]

One step forward, two steps back.

 

[kbahus]

Finally made some great progress! Ended up JB Welding the bottom of the intake manifold. I then installed the carb and discovered USPS played football with it as some of the linkages were bent. Pulled it back off and fixed that and now she is up and running. In the process of the carb install I fabbed some new fuel lines, ran a 12v switched wire to the ICS as I wasn't getting any power to it (PO desmog), and threw in a new air filter. Also got around to swapping some new plug wires to match the cap and rotor and tested the vac advance to find it's seized.

I have acquired a second 2F from a 60 series courtesy of SteveH so I am thinking about trying to find an ignitor and going with the FJ60 distributor swap. A Trollhole distributor is also on my mind as it's a simple swap and my ignitor is missing anyways for some reason. Tough decision.

Went on multiple drives with it today and loved every second of it! The poly tank seems to be working well and I am going to start driving this thing every day if I can.

The bucket list as of today:
Fix turn signal bulb that has rusted into the housing
Replace distributor
Fix tcase output shaft leak and speedo that doesn't work
Replace u-joints
Adjust valves/replace valve cover gasket
Adjust and bleed brakes
Replace door cards (acquired)
Fix heater (blows cold out of top vents but warm out the bottom)
and plenty more to come.....

 

[kbahus]

Some more updates!

Adjusted the gap on the points to spec and reset timing to find it starts better and idles good but acceleration is worse than before. I got the advance to move manually but the diaphragm must be bad as it doesn't hold any vacuum. I am guessing this is likely my problem with poor acceleration.

Jumped into figuring out why my right turn signal is out, the birds nest of wiring answered my question. I am losing power between the chassis plug that is over the axle and bulb housing, looks like I am going to have to do a full rewire of the rear section as the harness is in rough shape. I was hoping my spare harness had a good rear section but it was hacked too.

Got some interior stuff done including hooking up the defroster hoses, installing the floor mat, and a few other small tasks. I am trying to figure out what the aftermarket toggle switch on the dash does as I can't figure it out. It's attached to a larger red/yellow and red/green wire coming out of the column. Any ideas?

That is about it for now, the weather is setting in and the garage is full of 40 parts so I am going to have to take a break till it warms back up.

 

[ColoradoCarlisle]

Great story and great looking rig
Looks like your making some good progress
Hope to meet you soon

 

[kbahus]

The weather finally warmed up and I was able to replace the points and had it running like never before, then the fuel pump failed and I barely was able to creep home in 1st gear. Luckily the truck happened to come with a new in the box Kyosan fuel pump so that was an easy fix. Found the battery dead this morning so I replaced that too as it was one of those batteries that had been barely hanging on. The list is getting longer and longer ever day!

Next up is going to be some new ground wires for the engine and the battery as well as fixing the tail light birds nest, hopefully with a replacement tail light harness section if I can find one. Also anxious to get some more seat time in it and see how she does.

 

[kbahus]

Time has been flying by and I have not made any updates in a while. I have been tackling small projects and making progress. Installed Metro weatherstripping on the rear doors which worked marvelously for quieting the rattling down. Also installed some new used door cards, replaced the rusty license plate bracket with a nice fresh one, made a new rear wire harness for the tail lights, and a few other small victories.

Found one of those cheap Harbor Freight led lights fit perfectly under the dash and makes a great night light since I am missing the dash pad.

Huge improvement in noise reduction, thanks Autozone for your $8.00 bling exhaust tip. The best $8.00 I have spent on the truck to date.

All of the fun doesn't come without problems though. I was backing out of a parking space and heard a pretty loud bang from under the truck, the bang continued every time I let the clutch out so I drove her back to the house. I knew the u-joints were shot so I pulled the shaft to find the u-joints were not in that awful of shape to be causing such a loud bang. Further investigation revealed more problems. I found the tcase output shaft nut un-staked and a boat load of play in the front output shaft flange (and it's leaking pretty bad). I would imagine the tcase is in rough shape give all of the leaks and such. Not sure what do to here aside from swap another tcase. Any other ideas for loud clunks? Tcase mounts?

Another interesting thing is the driveshaft angle, it looks like the PO put shims to raise the snout of the diff to point at the tcase but it's a standard driveshaft which I would think this would create vibrations? I ran out to Harbor Freight and picked up an angle gauge so I can get this figured out, but I don't really know what the heck I am doing when it comes to measuring this stuff. Any tips?

 

[kbahus]

It's been a rough 2014 for my family and finally the weather and my schedule gave me a quick 30 minutes to head out and work on the 40 for a little cruiser therapy. I checked the torque on the drum side output shaft and it was torqued to spec. The tcase is in rough shape though and leaking out of every seal. The front output flange is quite loose, and I think it may be in my best interest to swap tcases. I also inspected the rear differential pinion nut and got myself into some trouble and could use some advice.

The nut has been staked twice and was currently found in it's 2nd staked position. The flange had little play but while the nut was still staked it was loose. Before thinking about what I was about to do I grabbed the torque wrench and cranked it down to 150 ft/lbs per the fsm. After performing the task I decided that may not have been wise.

I think the right thing to do at this point is to pull the pinion flange and inspect the bearing, pull the wheels, and reset the torque using a fish scale and a new nut. What if it's been rebuilt and had a crush sleeve installed? How could I tell if this was the case? Does anyone have any advice on what my best approach is at this point?

 

[Weber Sarge]

If it has a crush sleeve it may or may not have moved when you tightened it down - best way to find out is to pull the gear chunk , remove that flange and find out what you have . Probably find out someone put a front bearing in it at one time .
Sarge

 

[kbahus]

After sitting for a month I finally had some time to clean out the garage and pull it in. Going to start the rear end tear down today and see what's going on in there. I have a feeling I am going to be doing some brake work as well. The good news is it started right up on the second crank after sitting for over a month outside in the cold and that makes me happy happy happy.

 

[kbahus]

 

[kbahus]

Ended up just tightening down the pinion nut as the bearing feels good with no play etc and the clunk is resolved. Did a drain and fill on the diff oil which was almost to the point of being sludge, who knows how long that fluid has been in there.

In the process discovered just how bad the rear brakes were and followed some valuable info posted by Pin_head with regards to rebuilding the wheel cylinders on the vehicle which seems to have turned out great. Had my local Tubes-N-Hoses build a new rubber brake line from the chassis to the axle as the original was old, brittle, and stretched tight at ride height with the lift. Also adjusted and did a brake fluid flush with ATE Super Blue, couldn't believe how nasty the old fluid was.

The to do list is getting longer than I can complete things!

Up next:

Fix the the leaks on the tcase or completely swap tcases. It has some play in the front output flange which worries me. Could the front nut simply be loose or is this usually not the case?

Bleed and adjust clutch master/slave.

Replace shackles and bushings

Inspect, bleed, and adjust front drum brakes

Front Diff fluid

Driver's side floor pan needs to be temporarily repaired as I am about to fall through!

 

[kbahus]

Crawled on over to the car wash today to try and clean off some of the gunk on the underside before attempting to seal the speedo housing. Also made it back home thnkfully. While looking things over I found what appears to be a bent shackle mount as well as something funky going on with the front spring, does this look like a sheared forward pin?

 

[kbahus]

Starting to make some more progress today. Tore down the rear speedo housing and found someone has been in there before. The four bolts holding on the parking brake backing plate were mangled and one snapped right off in the housing. I also found an nice gouge in the case from someone trying to separate the housing previously. One thing I came across that surprised me is strange black plastic ring around the bearing. Does anyone recognize this? I don't see it in my parts diagrams, it's almost like part of the bearing but can move around some.

 

[kbahus]

On closer inspection today it appears that the plastic ring is part of the bearing, perhaps an oil slinger. Is this found on the stock bearing? I have yet to see a picture with one and my buddy has his tcase torn down right now hasn't not seen it either. Wondering if this case has been rebuilt at some point.

I also discovered that my u-bolts are loose causing the spring to fan out in the above picture. This poor truck has been through it all it seems!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

The ebrake backing plate can shear the mounting bolts when you start in gear and don't release the ebrake. I learned this valuable lesson many years ago.

Regarding tightening the pinion bolt. Bad news, but that is a bad idea. You have bought yourself about a month. The problem is, it's loose because the bearing wore out and you lost the pre-load on it. As you tighten, it will just continue to wear. Since the rear end is apart and it's in the garage, use this time to pull the diff and get it rebuilt, it with a new bearing kit and seals. Unfortunately, this is a bit expensive but well worth it. If you are lucky the gears will still be good.

Your t-case likely almost certainly needs to be rebuilt too. You can tackle that yourself.

If your u-bolts were loose, be CERTAIN the spring pins are not sheared. They are cheap and easy to replace if questionable.

If your distributor shaft has wobble, and they all do, you'll need to replace. This is a very good time to upgrade to FJ60 ignition. It isn't hard, it's way more reliable and basically will not wear out. Lots of previous threads on this.

Good luck. The first couple of years with an FJ40 take lots of time and $$. Once it's rebuilt updated, it will go 10 years with minimal effort.

If you don't have smog, a Trollhole carb and distributor might not be a bad idea.

 

[kbahus]

Andrew, thanks for the all of the info and tips!

This thing is definitely going to take some work in the long run. I promised myself I wouldn't let project creep take it over just yet so I can enjoy it. I have a hectic summer coming up and I would love to be able to cruise it around town for some stress relief so my main goal is to keep it alive till this fall. I agree in full on the tcase, everything that is attached to it needs rebuilt too. I have concluded that there isn't a single mechanical item on this truck that is in good condition, it all needs to be gone through.

I have a good 2f, 4 speed, and tcase one the sideline and have also located front and rear differentials. I am thinking about starting the refresh process on these spares and come winter I will have a fully refreshed driveline. I also need to convert to discs, power steering, upgrade the suspension, and do some major tub work. Basically it needs the full monte, but we all know how much time and money this involves and I don't have much of either right now.

I will keep a close eye on that rear diff and move it up on the to do list. It would be nice to do a locker while I am in there....


I also figured out the driveline angle situation, the PO put the shims in the front to point the pinion up at the tcase which is causing some interesting driveline vibes. Looks like I just need to pull the shims and see what my measurements are, looks like it is currently about 7 degrees off with the shims installed incorrectly.

 

[kbahus]

Decided to tackle the rear shim removal this afternoon and got into some trouble and definitely need advice.

The PO had put installed rear shims to point the diff at the tcase but didn't install a dc shaft so I has some wicked driveline vibes. The truck is also equipped with what I believe to be Rough Country springs that ride as advertised. The caster shim was bolted through the spring back so I figured I would simply remove the center pin and remove a leaf to soften the ride. What I didn't know was the spring pack is under some pretty serious tension, and upon removing the center pin the pack exploded and I soiled my britches

Now I need to figure out how to put the spring pack back together and which leaf to leave out of the pack (thinking one of the two that are now free). Also, how can I prevent the pack from exploding when I do the other side?

 

[FJ40zen]

Hey! that jack stand looks familiar... Bring that third over when you get your bearing and seal kit and I can help you out.