The $7.42 Starter Rebuild!!!!

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Apr 30, 2010
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I thought I'd share this with you guys. My starter crapped out out this morning after acting up for the last month or so. I read all of the rebuild threads here on "Mud," but didn't like the idea of being ripped-off by the local stealership. Since this is my DD, I had to make a repair time now.

I called a local good-old-boy alternator shop and the clerk just told be to pull the starter and "come on down for a look."

Five minutes and $7.42 later, I had all of the parts needed to fix my starter. It took me ten minutes to change the contacts using the using the guide posted here: Starter Motor Contacts

IH8MUD: Thanks for saving my butt (and $$$) yet again!!!

Here are the phone numbers for Texas Alternator Starter Service in Austin (512.836.6601) and San Antonio (210.310.7821).
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FYI, it is advisable to replace the plunger at the same time. These are known to stick in the on or start position. It make bring the total closer to $20.
 
I figured it would be best and I did ask the clerk about it. He said that the contacts would be sufficient unless the plunger was damaged. I think he was right because the truck fired right up on the first try. I'll do the plunger if/when the starter goes down again.
 
FYI, it is advisable to replace the plunger at the same time. These are known to stick in the on or start position. It make bring the total closer to $20.

I usually only replace the plunger at every other set of contacts. The plunger only sticks due to the wear on the old contacts, new contacts repairs the issue. A used plunger will wear new contacts slightly faster, in my experience very slightly, no issue.
 
Good to know. If you've ever had these starters engage while you are trying to shut the rig off, you would replace the plunger too.
 
Good to know. If you've ever had these starters engage while you are trying to shut the rig off, you would replace the plunger too.

I have repaired tons of N/D starters and have never seen one stick when turning the motor off, don't see how that is even possible? Every time that I have seen, it happens when starting, the starter stays engaged, solenoid sticks.

My observations on them: The solenoid is a switch with 3 contacts, one bolted in connects to the battery, the other to the starter motor and the ring on the plunger. When the electromagnet pulls the plunger in, the ring hits the bolted contacts, transferring power from one to the other, running the starter motor. With each contact make/break there is an arc/spark that removes a bit of metal.

When the contacts become excessively worn, the plunger can't travel enough to fully contact, so causes the click. The click is the sound of the solenoid pulling in with no contact, so no starter run. If you continue to click it, sometimes it will work, but will have low contact pressure, poor connection. This poor connection causes more arc/spark/heat and can temporally tack/weld the contacts together, causing the starter to stick on.

The bolted in contacts have a relatively small contact area, the same area is used every time, so wear quicker. The plunger ring has more area and is free to rotate, uses the area all around, so wears much slower. In my experience the plunger will easily last 2 sets of contacts. It is all about the amount of wear, meat left to do the job. Even if it has stuck and not suffered any obvious damage, installing new bolt in contacts will restore it to service.
 
I have repaired tons of N/D starters and have never seen one stick when turning the motor off, don't see how that is even possible? Every time that I have seen, it happens when starting, the starter stays engaged, solenoid sticks.

I think he is referring to when you start it and the contacts stick, leaving the starter still cranking. Then you realize the starter is still engaged and you try to shut it off with the key to no avail. Then you jump out, pop the hood, and frantically disconnect the battery. :eek:
 
Nope. Starter tried to engage when you shut the key off. I've never seen another starter do that before. Had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. New contacts and plunger cured it. I wanted to let others reading this know that they may want to replace the plunger too, if they are going to rebuild one. Especially if they are ordering parts.
 
Great work. LC starters are easy to rebuild, we've done rebuilds on countless Toyota alternators over the years, sure beats having to pay full price for off the shelf reman units.
 
I know where I'll be going to have an alternator rebuilt or have a starter rebuilt also.
I enjoy supporting local vendors and small businesses whenever possible. Nice to know there are a few businesses out there that aren't trying to rip off everyone that comes through the door.

the radiator shop near me will be getting a visit early next week. :frown:
 

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