The 4WheelUnderground 3 link thread

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Hmmm.....

If the DS arm is lacking the front hole, would there be a clearance issue running a seperate tie rod and drag link, with the tie rod on the bottom, you think?

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Like Billy did?

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And what I think what you're describing is exactly what Booger did. But you'll notice he's using the outermost holes on the Hellfires. You're SOL if Billy sent you arms with only 1 hole on the DS. Seems like using the inner holes just doesn't work on an 80

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Which doesn't work if Billy sent you these. I wonder if he's charging extra for arms with 2 holes? Sent an email a while back but never got a reply.

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So running the tie rod on the bottom, using the two rear holes and draglink to the single PS front hole, ain't gonna work?

Nope. The issue is tierod/panhard bracket interference. It will hit whether tierod is on top or bottom. I can see no way to use the inner holes. Not even sure if draglink on top of inner hole would work.

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And took this pic while swapping knuckles. These things are bad ass. This gives a nice visual of how much extra material is added on the knuckle where you need it most.

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How far forward is your axle from OE?

Haven't located it under the truck yet but I'd like to move it as far forward as the panhard brackets allow before it starts to bind. Speaking of which, what's the stock location? I forgot to take measurements.
 
Those knuckles are badass. I see those in my future.
 
From where would you like the measurement?

Know the CL of the lower control arm bolt to back of housing, but that won't do you much good, now.

Dunno what to think about steering, but what I have and have ordered ain't gonna work.
I suppose I can use the drive shaft as a source, assuming the slip joint hasn't moved.

Steering - what were you planning on, crossover steering?
 
spring vs. weight.
Mini trucks are often 750 per front corner weight on 14" coilovers I typically set people up with either a 150/250 or 150/200 depending on customer preference. The 80 weighed in at 1200 per corner. A 200/350 was chosen to aid in body roll by using primarily the bottom spring from ride height to full bump. So roll those jam nuts down that are your dual rate stops to aid anti roll. By the by, the valving in the coilovers for the 80 series is significantly more aggressive than what is used in the mini trucks and tacomas. This will help reduce high speed roll thus the 350 lower.

Questions regarding this kit and set up are welcome.
 
spring vs. weight.
Mini trucks are often 750 per front corner weight on 14" coilovers I typically set people up with either a 150/250 or 150/200 depending on customer preference. The 80 weighed in at 1200 per corner. A 200/350 was chosen to aid in body roll by using primarily the bottom spring from ride height to full bump. So roll those jam nuts down that are your dual rate stops to aid anti roll. By the by, the valving in the coilovers for the 80 series is significantly more aggressive than what is used in the mini trucks and tacomas. This will help reduce high speed roll thus the 350 lower.

Questions regarding this kit and set up are welcome.
I been meaning to ask you about setting the dual rates. So the jam nuts should be down as far as they go?
 
You want to leave enough room to fully compress the CO without binding the lower springs. Not sure if theres even enough adjustment to do that but you get my point. Also even then I'd give it a little extra room. You also want to set em so you can't bind the upper springs.

So enough to not bind the uppers or lowers and with a little room for a little travel IMO and then enough to help get into the lower springs as your body rolls through corners.
 
If I'm setting it up on my own vehicle once the vehicle is on its own weight, I setting those stops to .25" from the top of the sliders. Play with it from there but that's my starting point. The uppers aren't going to bind because of their length. The stops are telling the springs at what point to stop using the two combined rates which are softer then either of the individual rates. Coilovers are a built in adjustable progressive spring.
 
Last night I got a chance to start some very preliminary mockup. Nothing on the axle side is tacked in, just set in place. I ended up sending my driver's side Hellfire arm back to Billy. He's going to send me one with two holes. Also waiting on a new bracket or fix from Brian for the passenger side control arm mount. Because of the e locker, the bolt sits too close to the motor. Once I have those and have the steering squared away I can start to check for clearances and hopefully start burning stuff in! This has a huge learning curve for me so I'm taking it slow measuring and re measuring.

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How much clearance do you have on the link tower?

Won't know for sure until I get everything tacked in. You'll notice the link tower is propped up on the diff and not in its intended location. It will sit more forward and a lot lower.

Needs moar triangulation. :flipoff2:

I know you like pics so here's one more for now.

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Lastly, paging mr. @bobbynelson0730 I don't suppose I could bribe you with an internet beer to get me a few measurements? I'd like to know where your axle-side control arm brackets are located. Would you be able to measure from the edge of the knuckle ball weld to the flat vertical surface of the actual bracket?

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