The 4WheelUnderground 3 link thread
- Thread starter jcardona1
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Won't know for sure until I get everything tacked in. You'll notice the link tower is propped up on the diff and not in its intended location. It will sit more forward and a lot lower.
I know you like pics so here's one more for now.
Lastly, paging mr. @bobbynelson0730 I don't suppose I could bribe you with an internet beer to get me a few measurements? I'd like to know where your axle-side control arm brackets are located. Would you be able to measure from the edge of the knuckle ball weld to the flat vertical surface of the actual bracket?
Some how the stars have aligned and the land cruiser gods have spoken... For once I actually drove the turd to work. I'll go out and snag that dimension at lunch.
And I swear I won't use the same tape as Chris...you know, the kind that starts at 3"..
- Thread starter
- #83
Wasn't planning on it since I'm going part-time. Do you see a compelling reason to do so?
Thanks man! Would you also happen to know if your front driveshaft is stock? Extended length? Double-cardan?
DC. Tell me what a stock length is and I'll tell you later with my fisher price taper measure
Casters relevance to the driveline angle is irrelevant, and the two should be divorced, in my opinion.
Logically, it makes sense to point the pinion at the TC, run a DC joint, but in doing so, caster is affected.
PT or FT didn't seem to make aby difference in handling on mine, with the caster screwed from a lesser frontal rotation of the housuing than yours appears to be.
Mebbe worth checking into.
- Thread starter
- #87
Right. My thoughts were to try and avoid buying a DC shaft and a C&T if I can. Set caster and pinion angle as it would be stock which puts the pinion parallel to TC output. Which obviously won't make the driveshaft happy so convert to part-time to disconnect everything while on the road and then hope it's fine for slow speed wheeling. That's the plan anyways. If it doesn't work out I'll have to do it the hard way.
How about I sell you my front axle with all the brackets in place for the low cost of a 9.5" RS housing? Saves you time 
How about I sell you my front axle with all the brackets in place for the low cost of a 9.5" RS housing? Saves you time
Shipping address?
It's not, though. Like 4 degrees off at both ends in a broke back configuration.
Guess you could adjust the links until the desired caster is achieved, since part time, but there's no way to replicate without divorcing pinion angle from caster, at least, that's the conclusion I came to when planning this, pre-roll.
Edited: lifted, mind you.
Until last week, I didn't care, because I intended a 9.5" in an RS housing, but your buddy talked me into taking one for the betterment of all 80 owners and maintaining the 8" HP OE I have.
So, plan to free the balls and let 'em lie wherever they're most comfortable and let the shaft point wherever wants, making all of them happy.
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North of the border but not far enough away to where the Mexican food sucks.
Finnyfam60
Driving miss daisy
Jose won't he likes building, chris won't cuz he thinks it's too weak and wants the ultimate, so I claim dibs on this. I am commencing savings to have it drop shipped to you.How about I sell you my front axle with all the brackets in place for the low cost of a 9.5" RS housing? Saves you time
- Thread starter
- #94
How about I sell you my front axle with all the brackets in place for the low cost of a 9.5" RS housing? Saves you time
Wish you would have told me before I bought the full kit! What about the knuckle balls? Gonna find another donor axle for that? And wait, are non-locked housings different than locked housings? If so there will be clearance issues with an e-locked third on that passenger side control arm bracket.
Lastly, why you switching? Have you been blowing the 8"er? ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Lol haven't blown squat but $$$
Just where my plans are headed eventually. First I want to get some tube around my noggin, then hopefully the mythical rear kit will be available...if not then some shiny coils are going through the floor cause I don't care what others say, the rear sucks the way it is now.
- Thread starter
- #96
Let me ask you this, keeping in mind I haven't driven an 80 with a 3 linked front. What sucks about the back, and what are you looking to achieve? Is it road manners? Better flex? Because it's easy to put a 14" coilover through the floor but where does the tire go? Even with trimming you can already stuff that rear tire as far as it will go into the rear fender on stock links. The rear seems pretty easy to fix compared to the front but I'm still not sure how much room there is to improve.
- Thread starter
- #97
And I imagine that back would end up looking like your typical triangulated 4 link setup. Coilovers mounted outboard behind the axle, poking through the floor.
And what Brian builds for the minis
And he already makes a link tower for the FJ80 9.5" rear
And what Brian builds for the minis
And he already makes a link tower for the FJ80 9.5" rear
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
Guys you may want to call me before you get overly excited about these swaps.
- Thread starter
- #100
