The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (7 Viewers)

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Here's a 4cyl twinscroll question, probably mainly for @Dougal but I'm interested in hearing all theories. So as you could guess the flow path for cylinders 2+3 is going to be much shorter than 1+4, probably half the length or less. It's also looking like it's going to be much less bendy, potentially coming straight out the cylinder head into an equal merge then almost straight into the turbine housing. So which scroll should get the more direct gasses from 2+3? Obviously there's not much in it, but one of the scrolls hits the turbine wheel infront of the other (as in closer to the exducer).

Obviously the scrolls in the turbine housing are different, but unlike some turbos that I've read about, both scrolls are wastgated, and they're divided up to the wastegate flapper (so when it's shut they aren't connected. So the only big difference between them is that the scroll closest to the exducer has a shorter more direct path in the turbine housing.
 
Here's a 4cyl twinscroll question, probably mainly for @Dougal but I'm interested in hearing all theories. So as you could guess the flow path for cylinders 2+3 is going to be much shorter than 1+4, probably half the length or less. It's also looking like it's going to be much less bendy, potentially coming straight out the cylinder head into an equal merge then almost straight into the turbine housing. So which scroll should get the more direct gasses from 2+3? Obviously there's not much in it, but one of the scrolls hits the turbine wheel infront of the other (as in closer to the exducer).

Obviously the scrolls in the turbine housing are different, but unlike some turbos that I've read about, both scrolls are wastgated, and they're divided up to the wastegate flapper (so when it's shut they aren't connected. So the only big difference between them is that the scroll closest to the exducer has a shorter more direct path in the turbine housing.

If you can make one pair exactly half the length of the other, do that. It won't matter which scroll gets which pair.
What did @gerg do?
 
Gerg had 1+4 going to the shorter scroll, which is the one closest to the turbine exducer. This is the easiest way to fabricate the manifold, so that's what I'll do too unless there's a gain to be had by putting the shorter path 2+3 into that scroll.

His manifold puts the turbo flange forward of the manifold centre line. For my setup i should be able to make mine closer to the centre and end up with close to equal length runners for the paired cylinders.
 
I have a 95' HZJ80 that i bought rolled 16 years ago. It had 220k on it. I repaired and chopped/extended it. It has a DTS turbo kit in it which i reckon would be 20+ years old.
When it rolled it must have picked up something from the aircleaner, i didnt notice anything when i test ran it at the wreckers but later it smoked and ran crap.
I pulled the hose from the turbo inlet and found a lump of rubber hose in against the wheel..
I had bought several trucks from the guy so he had it rebuilt.
Fast forward 16 years and 100k later. I change oil at 5k, air and fuel filters every other oil change, and i have averaged 6000k's a year since owning it, tho the last couple years been using it as my daily.
We took it to qld at christmas to see our daughter, and got stuck there due to covid, couldnt get back thru NSW. So after a couple weeks we decided to head to Birdsville and come home thru SA. Was an amazing adventure, and ive come home with a new passion for the old truck and super keen to use it more. If anything lockdown did, made me more appreciative of the times away from the city.

Anyway, ive been following threads on here for years, lately taking lots of notice of this one. I need more power.
The truck runs really very well. Had the shims done before we set off in decmeber. But have not done the injectors or pump since owning it. And not felt it needed it, it really starts well always does what i want. COming thru the bridsville track, which is pretty flat, it sat at speed fine, across the outback as well, flat country no problem. But come up to a hill and its back thru the gears.. We had a light load at christmas as we were not camping. But do camp regularly and want to refit the tray with new kit. As light as possible.

I feel like its a good candidate for more boost, so have sifted thru info, looked at the ebay options, and was kinda settling on a grunter for a while. But am wondering a couple things.
Is it worth modding the turbo i have? I should have taken more note of what blade it had in the exhaust side, when i had it off in december fitting a pyro sensor.
Its a TD05H with a T3 inlet and a 3 bolt dump pipe mount, internal gate. My memory gets cloudy these days but im sure the manifold had twin entry, cant recall if the turbo did.
WHat id love is to keep momentum up a reasonable grade. I reckon it could do with some timing adjustment as well. After replacing the timing belt recently, it picked up about 20% more power, and putting the belt beside the new belt, it was noticeably stretched, which i cant explain, was not an old belt at all. I might start a post about that.

To get an idea of what boost was in this old turbo, i disconnected the gate and took it for a spin. It makes 10psi tops and thats about 3000rpm up, guess as i dont have a tacho, and it spools pretty slow, guessing around 2000rpm before it gets past 3-4psi, hits 5psi and dawdles to max.
After disconnecting the gate, it felt stronger from the start, and reached 13psi tho faster. In fact in autumn weather just me and the dog on board, it is pretty good.

Looking at options that keep the manifold, hence costs in check, i found this one that also has a 3 bolt exhaust flange, so win win. A reasonable bolt on upgrade?
I have also got a couple of boost compensators in my ebay cart, but am not fully clear on whether any of them will be ok, or if theyre more pump specific.

I have been considering bigger changes, engine swaps as well, doing the sums for new turbo, IC, new pump and injectors, gee that climbs up in cash pretty quicky, making an LS start to look good :)

 
Couple of things, firstly any turbo’d indirect injection engine is going to have a limit of how much boost you can run.... while you may get more power you start to risk damage.

secondly, have you done a boost leak test? Intake gaskets do wear out and there is a possibility you’re just blowing boost out before it reaches the engine...
 
Couple of things, firstly any turbo’d indirect injection engine is going to have a limit of how much boost you can run.... while you may get more power you start to risk damage.

secondly, have you done a boost leak test? Intake gaskets do wear out and there is a possibility you’re just blowing boost out before it reaches the engine...
Funny you should suggest that. Year ago I did the timing belt, as I was cleaning around the engine bay to start the job, there was some oil around no.6 inlet. While it was running a shot it with some degreaser and hosed it off. Made a weird sound and I thought, vainly, there was an electrical issue.
Well as I looked closer there was no gasket at the top of the inlet runner in, and none on the next either. Replaced the gaskets and gee that’s where my boost had been going 😂
 
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I am not wanting to harm it. And the 10psi is prolly enough. It just doesn’t happen down where it’s needed. If this is all I have to look forward to then a swap is definitely on the cards
 
My suggestion would be Install a good quality EGT gauge in the manifold pre turbo. Much more responsive and accurate.

Secondly, Install the biggest intercooler you can find. I would recommend the PDI one, I have one myself and it's awesome.

If you can keep it cool it will be reliable enough with 20+psi. The problem with indirect diesels and turbos is the heat in the head. The bottom end is more or less very similar to the factory turbo engines.

Lastly, get a good tune done. This is most important. You will want to run on the leaner side, as on a diesel that keeps it cooler.
 
Funny you should suggest that. Year ago I did the timing belt, as I was cleaning around the engine bay to start the job, there was some oil around no.6 inlet. While it was running a shot it with some degreaser and hosed it off. Made a weird sound and I thought, vainly, there was an electrical issue.
Well as I looked closer there was no gasket at the top of the inlet runner in, and none on the next either. Replaced the gaskets and gee that’s where my boost had been going 😂

yep, I just fitted a new turbo, new exhaust, new intercooler etc etc on a 1HD-FT and still struggled to do 0-100kph in under 28 seconds....

the only thing I didn’t inspect was the intake gaskets. Anyway I tried doing a boost test, but even with two compressors pumping 120psi into the intake, I couldn’t get more than 6psi on my gauge. With the new turbo going flat out I didn’t see more than 13psi. Turns out the intake gaskets did nothing and was just blowing all the boost out.
I have ordered new gaskets so will see how much difference it makes

I am not wanting to harm it. And the 10psi is prolly enough. It just doesn’t happen down where it’s needed. If this is all I have to look forward to then a swap is definitely on the cards

I would also look at tuning before forking out for new parts. Step 1 is to get a good quality EGT gauge and get the sensor in perturbo. Secondly, get a spare o2 bung welded into the exhaust and buy yourself a decent AFR gauge that works with diesels.

then try and measure what your AFRs are during various conditions. On the safe side you should be seeing around 20:1 under full throttle (both on and off boost). If your AFRs are much leaner (say 30:1) then you don’t have enough fuel and are missing out on power.
Finally (and sorry if I missed this) but you need the supporting mods to make decent power. More boost isn’t always the answer...

you’ll want a free flowing 3” Mandrel exhaust system with either a high flow muffler or straight through.
You may want to upgrade your airbox (depending what series cruiser there are bolt in upgrades from the petrol versions) and finally a good intercooler never hurts. Get the air in and out easily and you’ll free up power. Get the tune right and it should be pretty decent...

10psi won’t be beating Ferraris in a drag race, but should be still pleasurable to drive
 
Boost is only part of the equation.

The 1HZ will generally be good with much more than 10psi boost.

Boost, along with more air from a high flow compressor will help keep combustion temps lower.


3" exhaust is the single best modification you can do to make the best of a turbo upgrade.
 
I did fit a saas gauge pre turbo just before heading to qld. Lord did it change the way I drive! Even crossing qlds outback and me taking a break, letting the wife know to stay under 500 was fun, particularly when she called me out for hitting 600 😂
I do understand the relationship of heat and that it works backwards to petrol.
I have seen here tho that there’s two thoughts on boost. First that you gotta stay low for indirect engines, second that you can throw whatever air in you can, BUT the fuel or over fuel will kill it. Adding that heat gauge has shown me a lot, directly.
I have a thing for old Rovers, and went out to Horsham a year or so back with a trailer to bring another one home. Cruiser ran awesome across the flat country roads there. Coming home was a different thing. This turbo is water and oil cooled. The hills pulling a load, drove the water temp up amazingly fast, and as you’d crest, dropped as quickly! As fast as the get gauge does!

I’ve read and reread the timing side, and what I witnessed recently with a slack timing belt then fresh belt was astounding. In al my years of petrol V8s, I’ve never felt the change of sheer grunt a degree or two can make in the right direction with diesel.

im feeling like getting more air in lower is the right way, and if I see a remarkable result, then indeed adding a front cooler will be next.
I’m really looking for just enough change. I think a quarter increase for the hills would be enough and the flow on elsewhere welcome. At 55, I’m more about longevity and getting home. Going out with my nephews when I’m invited is so much fun! But I’m never the guy spinning mud to wash off later 🤓
 
im feeling like getting more air in lower is the right way

Absolutely.
Early boost, and then consistent boost across the useable rev range is what transforms the way they drive.

One of the big advantages of modern turbo's is the improvements in turbine design so you get more efficient use of the exhaust gas energy.
Add that with better compressor design, a modern turbo that is suited to the engine and your needs will be a big improvement.
 
It’s the same as what I have now, welded shut hole. The valve is in the same plane as the turbine so does flow thru to the secondary bowl and out the same place. Seems a common thing?

It's ugly, and far from ideal.

The waste gated gases are going to disrupt exhaust flow through the main turbine outlet.
You have gases passing out through the turbine in one direction, when the waste gate opens it will be injecting gases at close to 90⁰ to the flow of gas through the turbine. It will slow the gas coming through the turbine.
 
The hills pulling a load, drove the water temp up amazingly fast, and as you’d crest, dropped as quickly! As fast as the get gauge does!

Do you have an after market waste temp gauge?

If you are seeing the OEM temperature gauge come up, you have a problem with your cooling system.

The number one issue with keeping a turbo'd 1HZ cool is having the engine fan clutch hub working in to top shape. If your fan hub is lazy, you're asking for trouble.
2nd issue is not enough boost or too much fuel.

Do you have a standard exhaust? Or upgraded?
That hero's with turbo performance and keeping things cool too
 
On the EGTs, you won't hurt an IDI by running to 650c pre turbo.
 
Totally disagree with this, boost is not the issue and never has been on IDI. Like @Indestructible 47 has said, heat is the number one issue. Boost is your friend when it comes to keeping the heads and piston crowns cool in IDI

sorry, should have been clearer...
You are right in that boost isn’t an issue, but the problem is the more boost you run, most people tune the fuel accordingly.
Secondly, lots of boost without an intercooler will actually start to increase temp in the head, especially if you move outside the efficiency range of the turbo.

third, it takes energy to create boost, so winding up the boost while keeping the fuel low will actually reduce overall power and efficiency (as the engine has to work harder to create more boost which isn’t really being used).

basically it’s just there is a limit to what you can do with an indirect injection engine. As Shrek80 is driving across remote parts of Australia you want to play it safe, having to tow a car 1000km+ back to civilisation isn’t going to be cheap.

that said, 500c limit is a bit on the low side... I’d be thinking around 650ish providing you keep an eye on the temp gauge.
 

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