Dougal

I'm suspicous about a turbo that was too small killing your 6.5. Because those things commit suicide often regardless of the turbo. I have run many experiments myself with turbo sizing and purposefully fitted a turbo that caused drive pressure...

I'm trying to help here but you're making it impossible. There is a lot more to turbo sizing than you've got a grip on. I've calculated out turbo sizes for that size engine using compressor and turbine flows. It's an excellent match. The...

Take a GPS and get elevation numbers.

Look up the engine size for a 100hp tractor and the problems will be obvious. Holsets are built for higher boost. You don't need that.

yep he is a wizard, but still, the 3 turboed 2h s i have pulled all were cooked. head useless. The two non turboed, heads were ok.

Does anyone know the slope accurately? You can calculate power from slope, speed and vehicle weight.

IMO the only way to safely turbo an old IDI engine is to run low boost and no extra fuel. You will gain cleaner burn, a few percent efficiency/economy gain and cooler running engine. Any increase in fuel will increase engine loads and shorten...

A bigger turbine means less boost, hotter EGT, more smoke and worse response. That TD04 was used on 100kW diesels and you'll be nowhere near that. On a diesel boost is cooling. The CT20 turbine is an old design that is really inefficient and...

I don't think you'll find a genuine unit. I would buy from a reputable seller and you'll get a quality balanced unit. Kinugawa, mambatek etc. I think it's a unique flange. Part number I have is 49177-06430 There will be other similar size...

CT20 is old, inefficient and hard to get parts for. Get a MHI TD04-4 which was used on 2.5 litre Mitsubishi and BMW diesels. Safe boost is single digits (i.e 9psi). Tune it so it doesn't smoke and you'll be fine.

You'll have to check different markets. Here in NZ we have DPF but not ad-blue. I presume Australia is the same. It will be difficult to find a market that doesn't have DPF these days. Maybe Africa.

Advance angle is the change in timing. It's absolute timing you want to compare. Isuzu engines are spill timed. That's where you rotate the crank until the injection pump starts to deliver fuel. 4BD1 (direct injection no turbo) is 10 deg BTDC...

Also. Direct injection engines run a whole lot more timing advance than indirect injection engines do.

Back then Toyota stretched the FTE intervals out to an enormous 7,500km. Because the FTE ran a whole lot cleaner than the earlier engines. Less soot in the oil. Note the progression in oil standards. CF oil on that chart is C for...

Bigger turbo and injectors will only help when you've got a bigger injection pump. Stock doesn't have much head-room: OM617 Performance Review - https://www.4btswaps.com/threads/om617-performance-review.74457/

Interesting, thanks. How is your Hilux for fuel economy? Do you have ad-blue? Here we have only the 2.8 1GD without ad-blue. Fuel consumption isn't great.

Toyota GD series diesel engines (Hilux, Prado, Fortuner Diesel Engines) Toyota GD series diesel engines - https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/15-10-20_faq_gd-engine_eng.htm .

All engine oils these days are dual rated. They have a spark ignition (petrol/gas) rating and a compression ignition (diesel) rating. They are all majorly better than they were 30-40 years ago. Diesel engine oils used to be better at handling...

Just getting into a a 3B and know about flat tappet oils from the 2F cam history. Based on what I see, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40 is the way to go. Good start up weight to quickly build pressure and a nice zddp package. A little pricey oil but...

For all the work in sourcing parts, modifying pumps and turbo's, finding adapters and transmissions, why not just go all Toyota. 1hd-ft or 1hd-fte, h151 5 speed. There's nothing unknown about these combos. Everything is bolt in. Spare parts...

The solution to your oil queries is right there ^^. Use that for your 1HD-FT and your life gets way simpler. The only reason not to is cost. I use a Motorex 5W30 that's VW approved for all my newer engines and a cheaper 10W40 for my 4BD1T. All...

I'd use 10W40 and minimise your oil stores.

That'll be pretty sluggish in your winters. If you plug-in or garage you should be okay.

I've put the performance review link in the post above. 300Nm and 110kw is the limit for the stock injection pump. 220 ft-lb and 150hp.

What's your end goal and reason for swapping to diesel? This is starting to look like an incredibly expensive way to get very little difference in fuel economy or range. A maxed out OM617 with better turbo still doesn't have the power or torque...