Tech Article: How to put 60 series axles under a 40 or 55 series

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Early mini = FJ40/55 = 55"

Front long side is longer but the short side is shorter..
 
I spent some quality time under my 40 today to figure all of this out. There are a couple of new questions...

In the rear, the springs are already outboarded at the hanger mount. There looks to be plenty of room on the axle for the ubolts 1.5 inches closer to the pumpkin. Does the hanger need to be changed at all?

Also, I have some old FJ60 springs. Any reason they could not be used in the rear, assuming I cut off and reposition the shackle hanger?
 
40 are ~ 30"

60's are ~ 33"

And Beaufort had it basically right, Since the spring pad is about the same spot on both cruisers the long side is a good indication of how wide you need to be.

So, 1.5" inches extra..
 
Advent said:
Spring separation, not the WMS ;)


my guess is that the perch is in the same spot on the diff side just from looking at it, so the difference in WMS is a good aproximation with the given fact that all the length is added to the long side. Keep in mind I have done this swap and I outboarded 1.25" per side, this is as close as I could easily practically push perch into the diff side. Either way you look at it, it is only about half the outboard you need for full width.
 
Correct in a 40 leave the spring hangers in place, and weld the new spring pad into the correct location.. . Yes, no reason not to use FJ60 springs in the rear.. This is what Kurt Williams from CruiserOutfitters has done. FJ60's have the same width leaf springs but the bushings have a little more padding on the side so the hangers are slightly wider. So you might need to take that into account.. And I believe you do just do that, move the shackle hangers back.. But I can't say this with complete certainty. You can measure the center pin locations and see what you want your wheel base to be, that might determine this too..


Cruiserdrew said:
I spent some quality time under my 40 today to figure all of this out. There are a couple of new questions...

In the rear, the springs are already outboarded at the hanger mount. There looks to be plenty of room on the axle for the ubolts 1.5 inches closer to the pumpkin. Does the hanger need to be changed at all?

Also, I have some old FJ60 springs. Any reason they could not be used in the rear, assuming I cut off and reposition the shackle hanger?
 
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Here is a link to a spring perch / pad whatever you want to call it.. Easiest I've found is hack off the old ones and use new ones like these. But I have been able to salvage old spring pads too... And there is also the Dodge / Mopar ones that are usually available locally and are probably still under $15 or so...

http://www.proffittscruisers.com/parts/photo21.html

DSC00051.JPG
 
dieselcruiserhead said:
C) 1976, switched to disk brake fronts, has "small" knuckle pattern for steering arms, slightly smaller birfields than later models so still slightly weaker. 4.10 gear ratio. Usually had weaker Warn hubs or other aftermarket (but usually Warns) installed at dealer compared to later Aisins but there are a few Aisins. In mid-late '78, there are a few pinions that were changed to fine spline making them stronger versus earlier models. All diffs still interchangable.
D) 1979, switched to bigger knuckle pattern, bigger birfield which would remain through 1989-1990 through end of 62 series that is also the same in minitrucks. Used a larger knuckle pattern for steering arms, also the same for mini trucks. Is the strongest. Switched to faster 3.73 axle gear ratio.
E) FJ60 models only: same as D but 2.75" wider.
F) 70 series models, same as D but I think 30 mm wider so about an inch wider?
G) FJ62 models only. Same as E but pinion angle was rotated up about 8 degrees towards T-case making for a "factory cut and turn" (still barely enough for a spring over but usable and better than no cut and turn). Gear ratio was returned to 4.10 but they have fine spline count so stronger. Also, axle is factory trussed, and disk brakes have a little wind scoop for better cooling.
...


FYI: Earlier (leaf sprung) 70 series axles are the exact same width as a 40/55 housing. We verified this on the housing as well as the inner axle shafts when we put the 60 axles on Eppersons 70. Also, the 70 has some cut/turn built in from the factory, more than the 62 in fact. Having never seen one of the later coil 70 series front axles, I'm not sure on the width.

Inner Axle Tech:
40/55/70 Series Drivers Side: 29.00"
40/55/70 Series Passenger Side: 17.25"
60/62 Series Drivers Side: 31.5"
60/62 Series Passenger Side: 17.25"
80 Series Drivers Side: (not sure why I don't have it???)
80 Series Passenger Side: (not sure why I don't have it???)
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Drivers Side: 31.5"
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Pass. Side: 15.375"

You will notice the short FJ40/55/60/62 is the same, and the long FJ60/62/mini is the same, interchangable...

Knuckle Pattern Tech:
Small Pattern (E-1/79' 40/55 Series)
47mm x 30mm, 10 mm stud

Large Pattern (1/79'-1/90' 40/55/60/70 Series & 79'-85' PU & 4Runner)
55mm x 30mm, 12 mm stud

All here:
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_front_axle.html
 
Damnit Kurt, go get married!!!!
 
perhaps it is in here somewhere but with my limited mechanical knowledge i couldnt find it.

Hope my understanding is correct.
With the diff being wider on the long side that would move the pumpkin further to the short side (a further offset from 40 axle) when centring on a 40. Does this cause any problems with the drive system and if so what do you do about it. If not can you explain why.

If something doesnt make sense, let me know and i will try to clarify.

Cheers
 
perhaps it is in here somewhere but with my limited mechanical knowledge i couldnt find it.

Hope my understanding is correct.
With the diff being wider on the long side that would move the pumpkin further to the short side (a further offset from 40 axle) when centring on a 40. Does this cause any problems with the drive system and if so what do you do about it. If not can you explain why.

If something doesnt make sense, let me know and i will try to clarify.

Cheers


Your understanding is correct, and no, it doesn't cause any problems.

If you find my ROTW in the 40 section, I posted some shots of how it all turned out. I see this as a very valuable modification-3 inches of width and minimum effort.

The front is more difficult as Andre makes clear.
 
Great writeup. TTT for simplicity sake.
 
Reread this thread. Good stuff. I'm going to do the spring over. You said that the 62 axle was better in more ways than the gearing... what did you mean by this? And how has the project held up?
 
I believe the 62 housing has a factory truss.
 

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