Swaybar disconnects for 100 series? (1 Viewer)

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ElmoTheDestroyr

ElmoTheDestroyr

Joined
May 23, 2016
Threads
20
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Location
Anacortes, WA
Hi,

I need to replace my swaybar endlinks and I figured I'd throw some quick disconnects in.. However, I can't seem to find any. Does anyone make them for the 100 series?

Thanks!
 
If there isn't an off-the-shelf option even in foreign markets (at least so far as I could find) then you're probably looking at DIY. There's an 80s-series thread (below) on a couple of takes on this.

I imagine that this would be mostly a front disconnect to try to address the IFS vs solid front axle articulation gap. I'd worry about out-of-range articulation on the CVs, and the IFS in general.

If LandCruiserPhil has something to add, I'd trust that advice.


Sway bar disconnects
 
:popcorn:
 
I think @Hayes did one a while back.
 
Right on... Thanks for all the information. Definitely would like some more information about the IFS handling the extra articulation/travel I guess before I worry about trying to make something for the front. Guess for now I'll just go stock replacement on those, the rear on the other hand, sounds like I'll have to get creative. This should be interesting! :)

Thanks again!
 
Easy enough to do it by yourself. Here's my solution: Drill out the bolt holding the sway bar and replace with a pin. I believe I used a ⅜" pin. I hold the sway bar up with an S-Hook rubber strap from HD. The only crappy part is reconnecting the sway bar on any road that's not level. All in all, takes about 10 minutes to disconnect and reconnect. Worth it, IMO. LCP offered some excellent info for AHC owners thinking about doing a disconnect lower down on this page

IMG_5401.JPG


IMG_5404.JPG
 
LXColorado said:
Easy enough to do it by yourself. Here's my solution: Drill out the bolt holding the sway bar and replace with a pin. I believe I used a ⅜" pin. I hold the sway bar up with an S-Hook rubber strap from HD. The only crappy part is reconnecting the sway bar on any road that's not level. All in all, takes about 10 minutes to disconnect and reconnect. Worth it, IMO. LCP offered some excellent info for AHC owners thinking about doing a disconnect lower down on this page
Click to expand...

Right on.. Yeah, doesn't look like it'll be too hard to figure something out. Have you had any problems with your CV's over-extending due to the extra articulation in the front? Didn't even think of that until Staggrlee mentioned it might be something to consider.

Thanks!
 
I think too much flexing down/droop would be the concern... Not sure how much further it can drop (especially with aftermarket upper control arms and possibly longer shocks) ...
 
Honestly, the increased articulation is nothing to write home about. It's not enough that the CV's give me worry. I did it mostly for smoothing out the front end while off-road, not for more travel.

Let us know what you end up doing! Always good to see what others come up with.
 
Right on, lol that's actually the same reason I'm installing them. I just don't want the sway bar to make the ride any rougher than it needs to be, just wanted to make sure on the occasions I do drop a wheel into a big hole or something that it's not going to be an issue. Doesn't sound like that will be much of a concern, cool.

Yeah, once I get around to the project I'll post up whatever I come up with.

Thanks!
 
I did what was demonstrated above for awhile. I eventually just ditched the front all together. Rides fine, more compliant off-road in my opinion. I just made sure my rear sway bar bushings are all good, and I run extended links in rear to make up for the lift springs. Still tows just fine in my opinion also. I towed my 1965 Cutlass 400 miles to where I currently live and no problems. my trailer weighs about 1600 and the car is around 3600.

I would say it is obviously noticeable doing anything evasive but I've driven a lot of vehicles that were worse off. I mean, it is a 6k lbs brick.
 
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RobRed said:
Run longer front sway bar links on your lifted 100 - you'll get the smooth you seek with having to disco the link and the bars work as expected though softer on road.

reference: TLC FAQ • View topic - Extended Sway Bar Links on Lifted 100 [PICS]
Click to expand...

This ^

Solid axle = Disconnect
Lifted IFS = Extended links

My last IFS rig I removed the front sway bar, while a lot of fun in desert washes doing 50mph, I'll never do it again. %1 of fun and 99% of why did I do that?
 
Last edited:
Sorry guys I have nothing to offer for the 100 series swaybar disconnects. :frown:
Mainly because currently Im AHC equipped and the benefit is not as great.

Stock AHC set up

2006 Front flex.JPG
 
Last edited:
lol, thanks for the tips guys... Looks like extended links on the front might be the way to go. Bummer there aren't any aftermarket disconnects out there though! :( Oh well, extended links up front and disconnects in the back sound workable. :)

Thanks again!
 
ElmoTheDestroyr said:
huh, good to know, even with the solid axle disconnects don't gain anything worthwhile over extended links? Cool, simplifies things :)
Click to expand...

Solid axle and IFS can not be compared when it comes to links and disconnects. Others testing on 100 series have shown some increases with extended links ◄link and disconnects.
80 Series gain avg of 15% of articulation (plus other benefits) with the swaybar disconnected where as front extended link gain very little.
 
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