swap birffs or not (1 Viewer)

[ariff]

I am getting all my ducks in a row to start my front axle rebuild. I am wondering if I should disassemble my birffs and swap sides.. I am leaning to no as they seem to be working fine and I have never heard any clicking out of them. I know some folks have had trouble separating and getting them back together. What are your thoughts to those of you that have walked down this road before? Also if I don't separate them how have you all cleaned all the grease out of the cv joint? I was thinking of soaking them overnight in a bucket of diesel? And I was thinking of using a needle attachment on my grease gun to pump grease into them when clean. Maybe also use a spatula to get it packed in as well? Anyhow just looking for good ideas on how to clean and repack the grease from an assembled birff.. Thanks!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I am getting all my ducks in a row to start my front axle rebuild. I am wondering if I should disassemble my birffs and swap sides.. I am leaning to no as they seem to be working fine and I have never heard any clicking out of them. I know some folks have had trouble separating and getting them back together. What are your thoughts to those of you that have walked down this road before? Also if I don't separate them how have you all cleaned all the grease out of the cv joint? I was thinking of soaking them overnight in a bucket of diesel? And I was thinking of using a needle attachment on my grease gun to pump grease into them when clean. Maybe also use a spatula to get it packed in as well? Anyhow just looking for good ideas on how to clean and repack the grease from an assembled birff.. Thanks!

Most dont take apart the birf but if you do pay close attention especially the cage, its easy to reverse and dont mix sides. It can be clean out (requires only time) without disassembly. After separating the birf and axle esaily done with a piece of PVC. Remove the c-clip and use the axle to compress the grease in the birf until is comes out on 360° of the birf. If you have easy access to a welder consider doing the Martack on your axle and dump the c-clip.

If its your first time do yourself a favor and take your time, this is not a race.

 

[bicycleagent003]

There are good tips in the FAQ section at the top of the 80 Series tech section.
When I did my front end I swapped sides, even though I didn't have any clicking. IMHO, it's worth the trouble and it made me feel like I was being thorough. I soaked mine in a bucket of diesel overnight, too, after separating the axles from the Birfields.
You can get a lot of grease in the Birf's with a spatula, then putting the axle down inside should spread it around inside the joint further. Also, once it's reinstalled you'll want add more from the access hole on top of the steering knuckle.
Finally, after driving it around for a bit (100 miles? I have no idea, really) check the grease level at the square access hole again with a dipstick of your choice (most use a long white zip tie) and add as appropriate.
For me, it was a filthy and time consuming weekend long job. I did enjoy it, but I was plenty tired afterward.

 

[BreckCruiser42]

I swapped birfs in my latest rebuild

 

[BigAxeJack]

I'd say don't bother if you aren't clicking. Follow the steps to clean them out as best you can and carry on.

I'm biased. I swapped sides and the clicking got worse. Birf & axle shopping is in my future...

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I'd say don't bother if you aren't clicking. Follow the steps to clean them out as best you can and carry on.

I'm biased. I swapped sides and the clicking got worse. Birf & axle shopping is in my future...

Same here.

 

[BILT4ME]

I would leave them alone.

You can clean using diesel, but then unless you get all the diesel dripped out of it, you will have a little of that in there yet, too.

You can also literally start packing with fresh grease from one half, then keep pushing it through until the clean stuff comes out the other side. Then work it all the way around doing the same thing and it will be freshened.

After I read what I typed, wash it with diesel so you can see if there is any damage, THEN pack it the way I suggested, as ti will accomplish the same thing, but you'll get to see the inside.

I would NOT swap the birfs, as you may open up a whole new can of worms.

I drove another 25K on the original birfs in my truck and they could have gone longer with their clicking, but I was there and it was part of my plan, so I installed new ones. The old ones definitely clicked, but since I'm not wheeling hard or anything, I wasn't worried about them.

Just make sure you clean the axle breather (and maybe add the length to it for above the booster)

 

[Red Merle]

I about smashed a hole to China in my garage floor trying to swap them when I just decided to really clean them up and look at them rather than continue down the former path.

No real complaints so far and I am about 10K into my rebuild job and I have been doing 20 pumps on the zerk(hole) if I ever get any clicking with the wheel pinned and I am on the gas. Seems fine. I am certainly not going to just do it over unless something crops up.

I would spend more attention on getting the axle seal set properly and I would highly recommend the Wit's End tool. I wish it would have been available when I did mine, but so far so good when it comes to leaking on mine.

80 Series Inner Axle Seal Offset Driver

 

[baggar11]

I had no clicking when I swapped birfs around 162k. Still no clicking with about 223k. Call me biased, but I would swap.

 

[ppc]

I've done it both ways. First time left them assembled, was time consuming to get them fully cleaned, not really satisfied with the result. Second time disassembled, the entire process was faster, partially from what was learned the first time, partially learning techniques of others with the biggest gain just having everything broken down for cleaning and full inspection. Didn't have any issues with breakdown or assembly, breaking or jammed C-clips etc. I did swap side to side but felt there was no gain in doing that. It was easy to get grease fully repacked as the without the axles the joint itself can be articulated to a much further.

Best tip I can provide is to raise both sides off the ground, don't bother separating the tie rods from the steering arms as you are still able to get enough movement to reassemble the steering arms into the kingpin bearings. That is difficult with one tire on the ground. If you do disassemble, do a trial assembly with some light oil to get the hang of it. With the grease it gets a little challenging to see everything with the grease slobbered over everything. With dry assembly everything seems to bind up thinking you may have done it wrong.

 

[cjmoon]

A little brake clean and compressed air cleans axle parts best. Put a rag over things down in a trash can to prevent splatter/spray.

 

[alex4640]

I swapped mine. I think, 6 or 7 years ago. They were not clicking. I figured why not? It's not difficult to take them apart. I actually tried cleaning them first, before deciding to swap. cleaning the birf without taking it apart was harder than taking them apart. IMHO.

 

[Pin_Head]

I had one that was clicking. I swapped sides and now the other side clicks.

 

[ariff]

Thanks for all the insight everyone.. I guess I'll see how everything goes once I get in there.. Right now I am still leaning on not taking them apart. However that could change once I get a look at it or see how much of a PITA it is to clean them all out..

 

[80t0ylc]

I have a little different slant, but I'm retired and my '94 is not my DD. I would definitely tear 'em down all the way. Mine weren't clicking & I have 275K+ miles so I wanted to see what kind of wear I had. Just as I suspected, mine had marks on the forward drive side on both (see pic), so I swapped 'em. I like PM (preventative maintenance) - not waiting until I have a problem. If I cause a problem by taking something apart - that's on me - my bad. I've learned something, but I now know what it is and don't shy away from it. It's a well built, actually over built rig, but it still needs care periodically. Maybe I'll need new birfs & axles at 500K - we'll see. But to break or seize a birf at say 350K because I took a short cut when I was 98% there already, doesn't set well with me.

 

[80t0ylc]

....... If you have easy access to a welder consider doing the Martack on your axle and dump the c-clip.

If its your first time do yourself a favor and take your time, this is not a race.

Can you describe or supply a link about "Martack"? Thanks, Phil and I totally agree with your last sentence.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Can you describe or supply a link about "Martack"? Thanks, Phil and I totally agree with your last sentence.

I you have access to a welder you want to Martack your front axles. Tons of positive reasons with no down side. Info in the link below

Marlin Tack aka Martack 80 series