Marlin Tack aka Martack 80 series (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

The FSM states you should replace the $1.85 axle c-clip when rebuilding your birf. Close inspection of the clip does show some wear after 125K. The c-clip is a PIA to install. Most dealers dont stock them. If the c-clip ever breaks (never seen info on one that has broken) in the birf you will buying a $500+ birf.

It is straight forward mod and works well. Just look at your axle close before tacking and notice the wear area on the axle end (see red arrow) and make sure you are behind the wear area. Also make sure the tack is smooth in all direction to avoid damage to the inner axle seal when installed.

 

[prarietlc]

i have done this before on my 40 series it works.

 

[joseywales]

What purpose does the tack have? Keep the birf from sliding down the shaft? Is that a possibility?

 

[IBCRUSN]

It's to keep the inner axles from sliding into the 3rd member.

The birfs aren't going to move inboard or outboard enough to worry about even if you don't use the outer snap ring on the drive flange.

The gist of the Martack is so you don't need to run any snap rings on 80 axles which makes removal and install much nicer during trail repairs.

I'll also throw a caveat out there for those running Long's. Make sure to speak with Bobby before you try this as it will likely void your warranty on the axles.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

What purpose does the tack have? Keep the birf from sliding down the shaft? Is that a possibility?

The tack is on the other end of the axle keeping it from going to far into the carrier. With the Martack you have no c-clip in/on the birf so it will just slide off the axle.

 

[IBCRUSN]

Sorry Phil, it looks like we posted at the same time.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Sorry Phil, it looks like we posted at the same time.

No worries...Im going with great minds think alike

 

[landtank]

so why do we need to stop using c-clips?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

so why do we need to stop using c-clips?

Its was not meant to be a we thing, sorry if it came across to you that way. It a personal choice so feel free to do what you with the info.

 

[landtank]

OK, I thought you were addressing some kind of problem with the original design on high mileage trucks.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Topic of discussion lately

Works on all 40, 60, 80 with both factory locked and unlocked vehicles

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Hey @LandCruiserPhil would you still recommend this? I am going to be rebuilding my birfs this weekend with @CruiseLanderAZ and fear of breaking, finding, and reinstalling the C clip had me concerned... this seems like a much better solution and a great opportunity to break out the miller. Also, I could bribe you with food and beer if you want to stop by and say hello. (BTW, I'm the guy who sent his GF to get that last aux fan kit for the 80...been trying to make it to the copper state meetings but something always comes up)

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Hey @LandCruiserPhil would you still recommend this? I am going to be rebuilding my birfs this weekend with @CruiseLanderAZ and fear of breaking, finding, and reinstalling the C clip had me concerned... this seems like a much better solution and a great opportunity to break out the miller. Also, I could bribe you with food and beer if you want to stop by and say hello. (BTW, I'm the guy who sent his GF to get that last aux fan kit for the 80...been trying to make it to the copper state meetings but something always comes up)

Done it several times since not sure why Toyota and do it that way to begin with

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Done it several times since not sure why Toyota and do it that way to begin with

Just for the sake of clarity, the Martack should be done on the inboard side of the inner drive shafts... outboard of the wear pattern on the splines, to limit the inner axle from moving too far inboard? This eliminates the need for the C-clip on the outboard end of the inner drive shaft (inside of the birf joint).

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Just for the sake of clarity, the Martack should be done on the inboard side of the inner drive shafts... outboard of the wear pattern on the splines, to limit the inner axle from moving too far inboard? This eliminates the need for the C-clip on the outboard end of the inner drive shaft (inside of the birf joint).

The side without the groove for the c-clip

And yes I remember your girlfriend as short, cute, educated, and works for Geico

 

[Qball]

So this solves the problem of old C clip? why no get new C clips from @beno or even the local stealership? They are pretty cheap if I remember correctly.


I like thinking outside of the box to solve problem better but in this case the solution to the original problem is really cheap and easy.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

So this solves the problem of old C clip? why no get new C clips from @beno or even the local stealership? They are pretty cheap if I remember correctly.


I like thinking outside of the box to solve problem better but in this case the solution to the original problem is really cheap and easy.

It eliminates the C clip for ever with zero down side.

 

[ALX4X4]

I slipped a zip tie over those pesky c-clips to compress them and very quickly and evenly pushed the axle into the birf. Then cut the tie off. PITA job the old c-clips all broke using the long drop down a pipe to seperate the joint from the axle too. I like the idea of no clip but, mines already back together with 'em doing it as a trail repair is not something I want to think about right now.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

So this solves the problem of old C clip? why no get new C clips from @beno or even the local stealership? They are pretty cheap if I remember correctly.


I like thinking outside of the box to solve problem better but in this case the solution to the original problem is really cheap and easy.

If you don't plan on pushing the truck in remote areas, it's definitely not something to worry about. But as much of a pita it is to get the C clip off in the garage... imagine how it would be on the trail, with minimal tools... there is only so much you can rig with a toothpic, a socket set, and a hilift...

This removes the need for any C clips, so in the event you need to pull the axle on the trail (or, ever again for that matter) it just slides apart, no drama, no hammers, and no cursing.

 

[Qball]

If you don't plan on pushing the truck in remote areas, it's definitely not something to worry about. But as much of a pita it is to get the C clip off in the garage... imagine how it would be on the trail, with minimal tools... there is only so much you can rig with a toothpic, a socket set, and a hilift...

This removes the need for any C clips, so in the event you need to pull the axle on the trail (or, ever again for that matter) it just slides apart, no drama, no hammers, and no cursing.

Last time I tried it, a thing of PVC pipe was all it took. And a zip tie to put it back in.

It is an interesting prospect to not need c-clip but how precise the weld has to be? also doesn’t the c clip keep the axle in place in both directions as suppose to one direction, does that matter?

I’m probably missing something, I can only visualize it preventing the axle go into the birf too much which I don’t thing would be an issue but don’t know how it would prevent the axle go into the third or that just won’t happen.