Stumbling through issues with fj62 (1 Viewer)

[Krawczyk80s]

Another update!
Finished welding the rockers in and grinding the welds! Took forever to refill the thing spots and regrind but should be more or less solid.

With a little bondo it'll profile nicely I think!

Started in the rear quarter panel. It was entirely made of bondo and foam.

Work will continue when I take the bumper off to get to the rear areas.

I'll be doing the passenger side rear qp like this too, it's in the same state. Sheet metal! Let's goooo.

I fitted the new blinker lights

Can't wait till I figure out all the rust and get to sand blasting!

 

[Krawczyk80s]

A little picture with my other gem!

Need an ignition cover and has a replacement tank which I have to pull the dent and paint but she runs like a beauty.

Gt750 1973 - 2 stroke, 3 cylinder, water cooled rocket!

 

[sark]

For carpets:

Late-model FJ60 and FJ62 carpet and mats! DECEMBER 14, 2024 update...

December 14, 2024 NOTIFICATION OF 1/2/2025 MFR. PRICE INCREASE: Hey IH8MUD members, I wanted to give everyone a heads-up that I received notification of a manufacturer price increase, effective 1/2/2025. Therefore, if you've been considering carpet for your truck (or gifting some carpet for...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Old Nick]

For carpets:

Late-model FJ60 and FJ62 carpet and mats! DECEMBER 14, 2024 update...

December 14, 2024 NOTIFICATION OF 1/2/2025 MFR. PRICE INCREASE: Hey IH8MUD members, I wanted to give everyone a heads-up that I received notification of a manufacturer price increase, effective 1/2/2025. Therefore, if you've been considering carpet for your truck (or gifting some carpet for...

forum.ih8mud.com

x2 ^

Have the carpet kits installed in my 62 and in my wife's 80.

Excellent quality carpet, and it's always a good thing to support a Mud member - @dnp

 

[Krawczyk80s]

Hi all, it has been a few weeks so thought I'd post an update!

I had some help removing the rear aftermarket bumper, dang was it heavy

I managed to get to the last bits of rear quarter panel to replace.
I went for a utilitarian approach, with some bondo and dent puller, I think I'll look decent!

Also removed the rear tailgate for better access and to fix one spot.

Next is the tailgate as it's gotten a bit rusty at the bottom.

Don't mind the chair it's how I drive it right now

A few more pinholes, and the spots will be ready for some temporary primer.

Still waiting for second pair of hands to help me with the windshield!

 

[Krawczyk80s]

In the meantime I finished the tailgate.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

Finished the front quarter panel/fender.

A little bit of cleaning, some bondo and finishing touches!

 

[Krawczyk80s]

Edit this later

Unfortunately somehow a shard of metal lodged itself in my eye, it went past my PPE. Very uncomfortable having that taken out. Rain next week so I have to get this done.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

Edit!





Some takeaways:

Next time I'll put the caulk in warm water to soften up. Go slower, and have a better tip to deliver it.

 

[Old Nick]

Well, you sure are giving it the old college try. I'm sorry that the windscreen cracked on you, and that it's leaking. But, you're bringing a rough old 62 back to life.
I rope tricked the glass back into my 62 when I did an all-over glass out Monstaliner on it.
Been building an 80 for the better part of this year. When it comes time for the glass to go back in... next week, I hope... I've got a glass guy lined up to do it. I choked at the cost, but with as much time and effort that's gone into the build, I'm going to leave it to a professional...
Took me a bit to come to the above conclusion, as I've done it before. But, there is only so much time in the day.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

Well, you sure are giving it the old college try. I'm sorry that the windscreen cracked on you, and that it's leaking. But, you're bringing a rough old 62 back to life.
I rope tricked the glass back into my 62 when I did an all-over glass out Monstaliner on it.
Been building an 80 for the better part of this year. When it comes time for the glass to go back in... next week, I hope... I've got a glass guy lined up to do it. I choked at the cost, but with as much time and effort that's gone into the build, I'm going to leave it to a professional...
Took me a bit to come to the above conclusion, as I've done it before. But, there is only so much time in the day.

Thanks Nick. I appreciate the kind words. I think next time I'll have a professional do it as well.

I keep moving my time table back as I find issues. I don't think it's gonna slow down either.

Have to still remove the back hatch and take out the glass in the back. This one isn't curved so I'm not really worried.

Slow and steady I keep telling myself haha

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks Nick. I appreciate the kind words. I think next time I'll have a professional do it as well.

I keep moving my time table back as I find issues. I don't think it's gonna slow down either.

Have to still remove the back hatch and take out the glass in the back. This one isn't curved so I'm not really worried.

Slow and steady I keep telling myself haha

You got it!

The back glass is FAR easier to handle than the windshield (if you've done the back glass before, just ignore what follows... ). Plus, all advice here is free, so you get what you pay for... lol.

I would recommend pulling the upper lift-gate glass while the gate is still on the truck. Leave the lower lift closed and so that you can sit in the cargo space and get good leverage without the upper gate moving. Get a buddy to stand outside to help with the glass as it comes out.

If you're planning to add a new seal, just cut the existing one and work the window off the lip... into the hands of your helper. If you're re-using the same seal carefully work it over the lip (start at one of the corners, again from the inside of the truck). Have your helper gently pull on the glass and seal, while you push from the inside.

Putting it back in... do the rope trick... from the inside of the truck... while your helper pushes from the outside. I had good luck seating the gasket over the lower lip, then working one of the lower corners over the lip. The rope will do the rest for you.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

So another update. Rear hatch is finished. It was pretty rusty underneath and I was seeing some damage on the inside. Decide to tackles this and be done.

As always putting in the glass was awful. I think I left the edge a bit to sharp because it tore the outside of my seal a little bit on the inside. Hoping it won't cause any issues. Caulking in two days.

Decided to take the front quarter panels off. Boy was that a lot of bolts. I'm still missing one something by the windshield wipers. Maybe you know Nick?

Also does anyone know how to take the trim around windows off? The lower part by the door. Does it seat the glass? I'm gonna be touching up the doors soon and was wondering if it's worth pulling them off to wrap or paint.

 

[diesellibrarian]

All the window seals really do is keep (most) debris out of the door. 60 series doors are "wet" doors, meaning that water can get into the door cavity, but drain out through holes at the bottom of the door. The single biggest cause of door rust is plugged drain holes, so take a look at yours and see if they are clear or not.

The seals are pretty easy to remove, but when I did my truck I just masked them off and it worked out fine. Again, the Factory Service Manual shows you how to take your Land Cruiser apart, right to the very last bolt, and how to put it together again - including glass removal and reinstall -- and window seals.

There are a lot of bolts on a 60 series fender, yes. Removing the fenders is one of those things that take you an hour the first time, and 15 minutes thereafter. If it's hung up on something, you've missed a bolt somewhere. Just keep looking, you'll find it.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

All the window seals really do is keep (most) debris out of the door. 60 series doors are "wet" doors, meaning that water can get into the door cavity, but drain out through holes at the bottom of the door. The single biggest cause of door rust is plugged drain holes, so take a look at yours and see if they are clear or not.

The seals are pretty easy to remove, but when I did my truck I just masked them off and it worked out fine. Again, the Factory Service Manual shows you how to take your Land Cruiser apart, right to the very last bolt, and how to put it together again - including glass removal and reinstall -- and window seals.

There are a lot of bolts on a 60 series fender, yes. Removing the fenders is one of those things that take you an hour the first time, and 15 minutes thereafter. If it's hung up on something, you've missed a bolt somewhere. Just keep looking, you'll find it.

Hey Brian, thanks for all the advice. I should get myself a FSM, I have one for my now late 80, but I have failed to get one for the 62. I'll go on the hunt!
When I first got the truck I noticed two blocked drain holes and probably will have to correct some parts of that door as I don't want the sick to spread!

Thanks again!

 

[Hammer45]

Trigger warning:
Bad welds!

Some work in progress, Im working pretty slow as I'm inexperienced.

I've pulled carpets and insulation as it was done terribly. I have some carpets ready to be installed as soon Im done with rust repair. I just found that the previous owner hid more rust with bondo by the windshield. I bought a new seal and will be pulling out next week with help of my brother in law. I'll try to get it repaired in the same day and put it back in with a new seal and sealant.View attachment 3706388

Inner rocker "repair". I'll run a flat piece from the inner rocker to the white panel. I still need to do a final cut to make it squared on both sides.
View attachment 3706379

you buttoned that up nicely! no judging from this corner.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

you buttoned that up nicely! no judging from this corner.

Thank you haha it was my first try at welding. We are getting a little better with each piece I'm replacing.

Quarter panel 1 off! Nice and easy. 2nd is coming off but I broke 6 bolts ... I guess I'm drilling them out :/. The passenger side is more rusty I think previous owner parked it under a tree.

 

[Old Nick]

Thank you haha it was my first try at welding. We are getting a little better with each piece I'm replacing.

Quarter panel 1 off! Nice and easy. 2nd is coming off but I broke 6 bolts ... I guess I'm drilling them out :/. The passenger side is more rusty I think previous owner parked it under a tree.

View attachment 3742597

That's not a "love" for the broken bolts... just for all of the progress that you are making on that 62!

With rusty bolts (please ignore what follows if you're already on it!), use lots of penetrating oil days in advance of trying to remove the bolts. Give them multiple soaks (add heat too, as it often helps). Then when it comes time to remove them, turn the bolt just enough to move it.. I mean just a little bit... then re-tighten the bolt. Loosen it a little more, re-tighten it... add penetrating oil as you're doing this... the bolts will "usually" come out without breaking.

Bolts still break, though... lol.

On the 80 that I've been building for my wife, there were some bolts on it so rusted that no matter what I did, I couldn't get them to budge. I broke more than I like to remember... lol. Used extractor bit to remove some of the broken bolts and had to drill out others... then tapped them.

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks Nick. I appreciate the kind words. I think next time I'll have a professional do it as well.

I keep moving my time table back as I find issues. I don't think it's gonna slow down either.

Have to still remove the back hatch and take out the glass in the back. This one isn't curved so I'm not really worried.

Slow and steady I keep telling myself haha

If you go here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/categories/60-series.1/
you'll find the mechanical and body FSMs for your truck.

 

[Krawczyk80s]

That's not a "love" for the broken bolts... just for all of the progress that you are making on that 62!

With rusty bolts (please ignore what follows if you're already on it!), use lots of penetrating oil days in advance of trying to remove the bolts. Give them multiple soaks (add heat too, as it often helps). Then when it comes time to remove them, turn the bolt just enough to move it.. I mean just a little bit... then re-tighten the bolt. Loosen it a little more, re-tighten it... add penetrating oil as you're doing this... the bolts will "usually" come out without breaking.

Bolts still break, though... lol.

On the 80 that I've been building for my wife, there were some bolts on it so rusted that no matter what I did, I couldn't get them to budge. I broke more than I like to remember... lol. Used extractor bit to remove some of the broken bolts and had to drill out others... then tapped them.

Nice tips! I did soak them I did not use heat. A lot of the under the body bolts, rusted solid. It's a shame and waste of time to drill them out but oh well.

The ever long list of things to do keeps increasing and my wife gets progressively more upset!

I borrowed an oscillating sander, some sandpaper and bondo is on its way. I'm gonna smooth out the quarter panel that's in good shape and attempt to vinyl wrap it, as a test. If I like it I'll proceed to do the entire car after some dent pulls, sanding, and bondo. 95% of the rust I taken care of. Both front and rear windshields are in with some degree of success.