- did you take any photos of all this by chance ?
- did you apply grease or ANY type of lubricant to BOTH the new seal lip and also , more importantly , the sealing surface to the rear pinion flange itself too ?
- doing BOTH in tandem prevents the new seal lip / edge from gettin all scuffed up duruing re-assembly , this is one of the STEP by STEPS , in the OEM< Chassis & Body FSM , Field Service Manual ....never to be overlooked ever ,,,
-
- u must do this above , or it WILL leak eithe right away , or soon there after ,....
- i also apply a thin smear skim koat of TOYOTA oarnge FIPG part # 00295-01281 to the new seals outer OD surface , some seals are a bare metal type , some are a metal then vulcanized rubber over it , no matter the FIPG applied there is cheap insurance for a long term future , seap free ......
- u must use a klean shop rag and brake klean to wipe the ID surface of the 3rd member itelf where the pinion gear is sticking out of any left over gear oil so as this to do its intended job , as intended
- the flange topic ......?
- i always clean the flange well and inspect the now BRIGHT and shinny sealing surface for any abnormal wear or grooves that would infact require a speedy sleeve type repair ?
- more often , there ok , or well sorta ...
- i take a wet sanding type emery cloth in a GRIT range of 1100-1400 , and polish down that surface where any groove has occured , no matter how minor the groove i was taught to polish it to a Brighter then Bright surface , even if a 2-step polish doen is required , say starting at 1000 grit , then repeating with the fine final of say 1400-1500 range is what i like in my results there on that .....
- first here is the HEX NUT topic rule i always follow to the letter , becasuse this is how i was taught by my team leader when i actually replaced my first real world propeller shafts seal on a 88 SR5 22RTE , i recall this clearly like it was yesterday , becasue i always have followed this teqnique to the letter and never have had a post-install issue ever , not once , no leaks , so this matters to me alot , and now you will also know , and that matters to me too ...
- you MUST apply toyota OARNGE FIPG part # 00295-01281 to both the males pinion gear splines exposed and female pinion flage splines inside it too , ONLY after u take a few common bathroom cotton CUE-TIPS applied with some aerisol brake kleaner , and clean each and every groove and on both as well as the tops of the splines , or the flat surface of each tooth is can be described too ,
- you do this as many times as required to remove 100% of all the surface area gear oil , this makes a doctors office clean like pure metal surface for the oarnge FIPG sealer / paste to tack-on to , and stick , do its intended job to prevent oil seaping out when u mesh them back together again ...
- once seal and flange are installed ,
- i re-install the flat washer , w/ the male groove on it , and the SAME EXACT hex nut i removed from it earlier , i NEVER install a new OEM hex nut unless there is a reason to for some reason , and herre is exactly why ....
- you NEVER tighten the old nut past its original post install manual-staking point with the punch that was done at the factory originally , or previously by who ever becasue simply replacing it to the exact location as before , and re-staking it then and there , then you have changed nothing from before but the leaky seal .....
- if you use the original HEX nut over again , and take it past that exact staked point , you are infact starting to further crush , the crush sleeve inside , and that changes the whole inside ring and pinion gears set up lash to each other , and that is NOT a good thing , and i will not chatty matty about all the results there , because they can vary and that is speculation , so i will not go there now ...
- using a NEW OEM hex nut , then requires a list of step by steps , to ensure the bearing pre-load is correct , and ring and pinion gear lash is also now correct too ...
- so back to the original use of the HEX NUT rule , and the use of oarnge FIPG part # 00295-01281 involved here rule , and the use of lubricant to BOTH seal lip and, sealing surface too rules i was taught and always follow , they work and work well when ass used together in tandom .
NOTES :
- it should be mentioned here klearly that ONLY applying MP grease the new seal itself is outlined in the original TAN chassis body 60 sereis FSM ....
- and that the FSM for TOYOTA anything propeller shaft flanges main HEX nuts , are shown as NON-Reusable parts same as the seal itself via a BLACK DIAMOND icon for that purpose ....
- summery : by adding oarnge fipg 00295-01281 outlined above , by applying a GOOD MP ( Multi-Purpose Grease ) Fully Synthetic lubrication product use 24/7 should be common sense by now in 2023 , and always replacing the original hex nut to the exact place you found it origanally . makes for a snappy issue free post repair and remody approach end product ....
- this is exactly how i approach replacing any seal on any toyota generally speaking , ...
matt
