Did you use aftermarket or OEM seal? I had an 80 series rear diff rebuilt and an aftermarket seal was used and it leaked around the perimeter of the seal. I installed an OEM seal and that cured the leak.
Stuck Retaining Bolts (Rear Differential Pinion Seal Replacement) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 60series777
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- #22
How can you tell if it’s the crush sleeve leaking vs the seal? I feel like I got the replacement seal in there flush. But I can’t tell exactly where it’s leaking with everything back on the truck. I just see the drip coming from here:
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- #23
If there’s one thing I’ve learned from reading this forum it is to use OEM parts. So that’s what I did!
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- #24
Need some help. This is a live look. Does this look salvageable or should I speedi sleeve/buy a new one? Can just barely feel the groove when I run my fingernail across it.
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- #25
1000 to 1400 grit seems to be working
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- #26
Ok…think I’m done with this job. Thanks again to @ToyotaMatt for the write up.
First order of business was sanding down the flange to get the tiny grooves out:
Next up was installing the new seal. I cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner, greased the perimeter of the seal and applied a bit of Toyota FIPG:
I put the “old” seal on top of the new seal and lightly tapped it in to place with a rubber mallet. I then greased the rubber lip of the seal with multi-purpose grease so as not damage it.
Then I reinstalled the flange, using more FIPG to make sure no gear oil will seep through:
Lastly I tightened down the central nut and re-staked it in the same spot as before. I waited 2 hours to fill up the diff with oil as I wanted to be sure the FIPG had cured. I noticed the tube said the engine can be turned on within 1-2 hours but 15-16 hours to harden. Does this mean I should wait to drive for that long??
First order of business was sanding down the flange to get the tiny grooves out:
Next up was installing the new seal. I cleaned both surfaces with brake cleaner, greased the perimeter of the seal and applied a bit of Toyota FIPG:
I put the “old” seal on top of the new seal and lightly tapped it in to place with a rubber mallet. I then greased the rubber lip of the seal with multi-purpose grease so as not damage it.
Then I reinstalled the flange, using more FIPG to make sure no gear oil will seep through:
Lastly I tightened down the central nut and re-staked it in the same spot as before. I waited 2 hours to fill up the diff with oil as I wanted to be sure the FIPG had cured. I noticed the tube said the engine can be turned on within 1-2 hours but 15-16 hours to harden. Does this mean I should wait to drive for that long??
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- Thread starter
- #27
Well…nothing is ever as easy as it seems. Although I believe I followed @ToyotaMatt to the T, I still have a drip from the pinion flange/seal area.
I had another look today and I think it is simply because there is a small amount of back & forth play when the driveshaft begins to rotate. I am wary of tightening the nut any further for fear of overly crushing the crush sleeve/damaging the gears.
Anyone have a suggestion how I can move forward? Here’s a video of what I’m experiencing. Aside from the leak I have no issues.
I had another look today and I think it is simply because there is a small amount of back & forth play when the driveshaft begins to rotate. I am wary of tightening the nut any further for fear of overly crushing the crush sleeve/damaging the gears.
Anyone have a suggestion how I can move forward? Here’s a video of what I’m experiencing. Aside from the leak I have no issues.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
That movement is too excessive, time for plan “B”. Pull the diff and have it rebuilt.
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- #29
That's what I feared. How much should I expect to spend on a rebuild? Too big of a job for me to tackle...
Swap the front diff into the rear if you need to keep driving, front diff will have substantially lower miles and wear on it than the rear. If you never use 4WD just leave it like that.
One other option is to source a used front diff and swap that into the rear.
One other option is to source a used front diff and swap that into the rear.
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- #31
I think the front diff is pretty good, maybe I swap for now. I'm hesitant to buy a used diff since it seems like you don't know what you got until you have it installed.
Any clue what a rebuild might run? I see rebuild kits are ~$170 but no idea about the labor...
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Give Georg a call Georg@valley Hybrids shop phone is 209 475 8808
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- #33
Stockton is a long way from me in Orange County
John McVicker
SILVER Star
If you are not going to do the wrenching…it’s worth the trip. Trust us.Stockton is a long way from me in Orange County
I would consider a solid pinion spacer when you get it rebuilt. It takes away the inability to properly re-tighten the nut on the flange if you ever need to do any work like this again. Also much stronger than a crush sleeve over time. I use them in every differential I have.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
breaker bar with a cheater pipe extension should do it.
- Thread starter
- #37
As in…just crank it down til there’s no play?
I did wonder if I could do this to stop my leak and buy some time….
I'm pretty sure you squished the crush sleeve beyond the limit. Now the movement seems to indicate that there isn't enough space between the outer and inner pinion bearings. Tightening will only make it worse. Hence the reason why I always use solid pinion spacers. I don't think you'll get away with much either than replacing the crush sleeve or rebuilding with a solid spacer.
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- #39
Not that it really matters at this point, but I had the same amount of play before I replaced the pinion seal. At the time I thought a small amount of play was normal, but it was probably the only reason for the leak in the first place.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
my bad, I thought you were still on breaking bolts/loose. Sucks about the leaking. Pulling the third member is the hardest part of the rebuild job, now just find a shop that will set up the diff.
