stuck 4h/low shifter.

[Roastchestnuts]

I have been fixing the old land cruiser lately a lot due to the virus outbreak. Seems like a lot of cruiser heads are doing the same lately haha. My 4h and low shifter has always been tuff to move to 4wd low. But today I went to use it and could not physically move it past neutral. Could not get it in 4 low at all. got it back in 4h though. I saw some post searching google seems maybe needs some lube? I think one guy in one post suggested using a cheater pipe on the shifter. idk any suggestions would be great before I start taking stuff apart tomorrow. thanks!

 

[Wompom]

Have you gotten under and looked to see if the linkage is in good shape?
It shouldn't be THAT difficult to shift into 4L. If it doesnt want to go, something is blocking/binding.

 

[ZackR]

I have been fixing the old land cruiser lately a lot due to the virus outbreak. Seems like a lot of cruiser heads are doing the same lately haha. My 4h and low shifter has always been tuff to move to 4wd low. But today I went to use it and could not physically move it past neutral. Could not get it in 4 low at all. got it back in 4h though. I saw some post searching google seems maybe needs some lube? I think one guy in one post suggested using a cheater pipe on the shifter. idk any suggestions would be great before I start taking stuff apart tomorrow. thanks!

Was the transfer case warmed up? On mine when everything is up to temp its easy to shift, when its cold outside and the transfer case hasn't warmed up it's a lot harder (but still doable).

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Was the transfer case warmed up? On mine when everything is up to temp its easy to shift, when its cold outside and the transfer case hasn't warmed up it's a lot harder (but still doable).

It was not warmed up but its not cold here. but Ill give that a try.

It was not warmed up. but also Its not super cold out here.

Have you gotten under and looked to see if the linkage is in good shape?
It shouldn't be THAT difficult to shift into 4L. If it doesnt want to go, something is blocking/binding.

Yeah I am going to pull it in the garage and take a look and see tomorrow. I recall it being a little crusty but nothing crazy.

 

[jonheld]

This has been discussed many many times.
The transfer case lever should be able to shift with 2 fingers.
The most common cause is corrosion of the pivot pin on the transfer case shift lever itself. If you get under the truck and disconnect the shifter linkage to the transfer case, the problem will be apparent. It is VERY unlikely to be a problem with the transfer case.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

This has been discussed many many times.
The transfer case lever should be able to shift with 2 fingers.
The most common cause is corrosion of the pivot pin on the transfer case shift lever itself. If you get under the truck and disconnect the shifter linkage to the transfer case, the problem will be apparent. It is VERY unlikely to be a problem with the transfer case.

as always you are direct and helpful! Thanks Jon! I think its probably what you are saying. Ill get under there tomorrow and check it out. Think some good lubrication will fix it if it is the pivot pin?

 

[jonheld]

as always you are direct and helpful! Thanks Jon! I think its probably what you are saying. Ill get under there tomorrow and check it out. Think some good lubrication will fix it if it is the pivot pin?

It depends how bad it is. My 97 that lived it's life in Phoenix wasn't bad, but still needed help.
My 91 was horrible. I had to remove the shifter on top of the transmission and with it clamped in a vise, I needed a piece of pipe slid over the shift arm to even start to work it loose. That sucked, but after working on them both, all they need is 2 fingers to move now.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

It depends how bad it is. My 97 that lived it's life in Phoenix wasn't bad, but still needed help.
My 91 was horrible. I had to remove the shifter on top of the transmission and with it clamped in a vise, I needed a piece of pipe slid over the shift arm to even start to work it loose. That sucked, but after working on them both, all they need is 2 fingers to move now.

Yeah I ended up removing the trans shifter and the boots over the 4h/4l shifter. I I sprayed a Buch of liquid wrench over everything that moved down there. then used a cheater pipe and worked everything back and forth for about 30min. I think it was the arm off the transfer case that was stiff from corrosion. After lots of lube and some pipe action its easy to shift with two fingers as you say.

 

[BILT4ME]

So, which part in the following diagram is what's making my stick so stiff? (ignore the red circle, image stolen from another thread on this subject)

I can move it OK if everything is fully up to temperature and I've been driving.

If it's been sitting overnight or I haven't let it sit and idle to warm up from underneath, then I cannot move it.

I want to fix this, but I need to know if I need to attack from the top, the bottom or both.

Do I need to allow 2 hours or 10 hours to do this. I don't want to blindly tear into it to find I'm chasing the wrong thing.
@jonheld help would be appreciated.

 

[Malleus]

IME, the upper pivot between the splined shaft and the bushing gets gummed up or rusted. That's where I'd focus my first effort.

No need to disassemble, just spray penetrating oil from underneath. I'd only be concerned, about lower pivot points, if that didn't have a substantial effect in short order.

FWIW, unless you have a gear tooth problem (e.g., one loose and floating around in there), there's not much chance the shift forks are stuck.

 

[Malleus]

Oh, and 15 minutes, give or take cleanup time.

 

[ZackR]

@Malleus 's reply in visual form:

 

[BILT4ME]

IME, the upper pivot between the splined shaft and the bushing gets gummed up or rusted. That's where I'd focus my first effort.

No need to disassemble, just spray penetrating oil from underneath. I'd only be concerned, about lower pivot points, if that didn't have a substantial effect in short order.

FWIW, unless you have a gear tooth problem (e.g., one loose and floating around in there), there's not much chance the shift forks are stuck.

So, Part 36327 in that diagram, not 36361?

 

[cruiserdan]

36327 may be bound up in 36345. You can get to that from above by pulling the console and upper plate. The rod can be disconnected from 36327 and 36345 can then be unbolted from the transmission housing and removed to the work bench with 36327 and 36360G in place.

 

[BILT4ME]

36327 may be bound up in 36345. You can get to that from above by pulling the console and upper plate. The rod can be disconnected from 36327 and 36345 can then be unbolted from the transmission housing and removed to the work bench with 36327 and 36360G in place.

Thanks Dan!

That help clear it up a BUNCH!

 

[cruiserdan]

Thanks Dan!

That help clear it up a BUNCH!

Once you have the 36308 rod parted from 36327 you should be able to move 36308 to shift into low range. This will tell you if the problem is in the lever or in the case its self.

 

[flintknapper]

Once unstuck, get the T-case shifter extension.

 

[BILT4ME]

Once unstuck, get the T-case shifter extension.

View attachment 3273989
View attachment 3273990
View attachment 3273993

I'm not used to a stick that long. I may tend to misuse it.

 

[flintknapper]

I'm not used to a stick that long. I may tend to misuse it.

Well...I'm not going to touch that (literally or figuratively).

 

[ZackR]

Whenever I'm out on a gravel road I'll drop it into low for a bit just to exercise the linkage and CDL.

Seems to be one of those systems that works better when its used. It now takes very little effort to engage low and the CDL light turns on right away.