stuck 4h/low shifter.

[Roastchestnuts]

Whenever I'm out on a gravel road I'll drop it into low for a bit just to exercise the linkage and CDL.

Seems to be one of those systems that works better when its used. It now takes very little effort to engage low and the CDL light turns on right away.

I had to do the same thing I mentioned above with my kzj78 too because I think nobody ever used the 4low. Its pretty common with this type of transfercase I think. The fj40 I have now has a pretty cool lever on the dash for the 4 low and a vacuum actuated 4 high. but still I am sure if I did not actuate the 4 low often it would get frozen up.

 

[jonheld]

@jonheld help would be appreciated.

First thing to do is a 5 minute diagnosis. Slide under the truck and disconnect the L/N/H shift linkage from the lever by simply pulling the cotter pin.
Then you can determine where the issue lies. Disconnected, the lever should easily flop around. If it's stiff, then the pivot point is corroded (most likely issue). This has to be addressed from above, as the mechanism is mounted to the top of the transmission housing.

If properly serviced, the shift from H/N/L should be able to move with 2 fingers in any temperature. No need for an "extension" which simply covers up an existing problem. However, if left unattended, it will only get worse.

To reference the parts diagram you posted, 36327 is the pivot pin that sits inside 36344 through bushing 36331. The common cause is corrosion between the bushing and the pivot pin.

 

[BILT4ME]

First thing to do is a 5 minute diagnosis. Slide under the truck and disconnect the L/N/H shift linkage from the lever by simply pulling the cotter pin.
Then you can determine where the issue lies. Disconnected, the lever should easily flop around. If it's stiff, then the pivot point is corroded (most likely issue). This has to be addressed from above, as the mechanism is mounted to the top of the transmission housing.

If properly serviced, the shift from H/N/L should be able to move with 2 fingers in any temperature. No need for an "extension" which simply covers up an existing problem. However, if left unattended, it will only get worse.

To reference the parts diagram you posted, 36327 is the pivot pin that sits inside 36344 through bushing 36331. The common cause is corrosion between the bushing and the pivot pin.

Thanks Jon!

So it looks like I still need to get under the truck, albeit briefly. Then I can attack from above. My thoughts exactly on why I don't want a longer shift handle, because it shouldn't be necessary. Even though I use mine once or twice a month, it is actually getting stiffer, so I'm guessing it is exactly where you say it is.

Looks like a couple hours of futzering around with it. Assuming I don't wreck anything in the process.

 

[jonheld]

Looks like a couple hours of futzering around with it. Assuming I don't wreck anything in the process.

The challenging part is getting the shift assembly cover off the floor pan. It's like 6 or 8 small bolts that love to snap right off. On my Lexus, I had undercoated several times with Fluid Film, so the bolts all came out without issue. I suggest spraying liberally a few days prior.

 

[BILT4ME]

The challenging part is getting the shift assembly cover off the floor pan. It's like 6 or 8 small bolts that love to snap right off. On my Lexus, I had undercoated several times with Fluid Film, so the bolts all came out without issue. I suggest spraying liberally a few days prior.

Ok thanks for that!

I am on a job site and was considering tearing into this during a slow time, but maybe not if there's a chance I'll have it apart and not be able to go back together.

Especially since I am in the Midwest and the amount of rusty stuff I have to deal with.

I am confident the shift boots are torn, because I can feel huge amounts of cold air coming in during the winter and during the summer, my coffee never gets cold.

But, I want to get this so it works much easier while I'm out and around. Maybe I'll go spray it now while the ground is still frozen.

 

[jonheld]

Ok thanks for that!

I am on a job site and was considering tearing into this during a slow time, but maybe not if there's a chance I'll have it apart and not be able to go back together.

Especially since I am in the Midwest and the amount of rusty stuff I have to deal with.

I am confident the shift boots are torn, because I can feel huge amounts of cold air coming in during the winter and during the summer, my coffee never gets cold.

But, I want to get this so it works much easier while I'm out and around. Maybe I'll go spray it now while the ground is still frozen.

The transmission shift lever boot is still available new. Part # 33555-60071.
The transfer case lever boot is also available. Part # 36331-60030.
I replaced both while I was in there.

 

[BILT4ME]

Well, I'm at 2 hours and I finally got the stick off the top of the transmission.

Also, I should have cleaned out my truck of everything from the second row of seats forward.
Empty the center console, remove all bits and bobs from the main console, and read up on how to get the damned shifter knob off the main shifter. I guess I didn't need to do that, but I started at the top and was taking everything off.

I'll post more later and take pics.

I also had a very stuck BH3D cup holder in the center console and a VERY rusted bolt head due to ally drinks sweating into the hole. I had to pound on a socket after I scraped off the rust. It's a 13 mm head and I had to pound on a 10 mm to get it loose.

I think looking more like 10 hours because it's me.

Oh, and it's now F'n raining on me while trying to do this.

This is another one of those I might take lots of pics and do a step by step thread. I certainly didn't have all the right tools in hand.

 

[flintknapper]

Well, I'm at 2 hours and I finally got the stick off the top of the transmission.

Also, I should have cleaned out my truck of everything from the second row of seats forward.
Empty the center console, remove all bits and bobs from the main console, and read up on how to get the damned shifter knob off the main shifter. I guess I didn't need to do that, but I started at the top and was taking everything off.

I'll post more later and take pics.

I also had a very stuck BH3D cup holder in the center console and a VERY rusted bolt head due to ally drinks sweating into the hole. I had to pound on a socket after I scraped off the rust. It's a 13 mm head and I had to pound on a 10 mm to get it loose.

I think looking more like 10 hours because it's me.

Oh, and it's now F'n raining on me while trying to do this.

This is another one of those I might take lots of pics and do a step by step thread. I certainly didn't have all the right tools in hand.

Sorry to hear it is fighting you. Sometimes best to just walk away for a bit....or do it another day. Hang in there.

 

[BILT4ME]

Sorry to hear it is fighting you. Sometimes best to just walk away for a bit....or do it another day. Hang in there.

Unfortunately I only have a very limited time because I need to hit the road again on Monday.

 

[BILT4ME]

Unfortunately I only have a very limited time because I need to hit the road again on Monday.

Well, I'm at 8 hours so far. I've spent at least an hour looking for a rubber bushing that I dropped. I had to call in my -eyed wife to help me find it.

I'm at least going back together....but I just lost a spring for the OD button on the shifter handle and not sure where the hell it went. It may have made it to the lawn.

I'm going to keep installing everything else, maybe it will turn up.

I had to take a couple hours to scrub all that nastiness on the console and carpet under there.

 

[cruiserdan]

So, was the lever locked up in that housing?

 

[BILT4ME]

So, was the lever locked up in that housing?

Yes it was . I had to spray it with PB blaster and let it soak before I could get it to move. Even though I have used it a few times a month, it would only move after it was warm. Brakleen would soften the old grease, but it took a lot of it to get it cleaned.
I went back together with Palladium moly.

Total, it took me about 12 hours, but there was a lot of scrubbing, readjusting my leather shifter boots as well, and having to clean up threads on the bolts in the lever housing.

I put anti-seize on all bolts going back in, even in the center console.

Now, two fingers is all it takes.

 

[John McVicker]

This thread has helped me even with my 60 T Case going from 2 hi-4hi & then over to 4lo.

I live in sunny Ca. & just could not believe that a little corrosion could not easily be overcome by the leverage of the long stick/shifter. Was afraid I was going to have to open up my T Case.

Sprayed the suggested areas with Ed’s Red (all from underneath) & now easy 2 finger shifting. 10 minute fix.

 

[BILT4ME]

Here are a few pictures of when I had mine blown apart.