Struggling With Removing The 3rd Members (1 Viewer)

[lt1fire]

Never had issues pulling 3rds, some jiggling back and forth and before you know it you've got a 3rd on your chest, and breathing becomes difficult.

I don't recommend this method for the third. Lifting with your hands is a much better place for the third than on your chest

 

[VCCruzr]

Update:
The thirds have been removed and delivered to my mechanic, woohoo!

I learned alot from my mistake here: READ READ READ your FSM and the FAQ threads applying to your project at hand.

Although this was a frustrating (and embarrassing) experience, I always kept my cool. First night, work on it a couple of hours, didn't "overly" force anything, and called it quits for the night. Went inside, asked for some advice from this awesome forum, and tried again another night.....repeat process.....then answer appears on thread I posted and problem solved!

Thanks Woody for this forum and Thanks IH8MUD collective for your experience and advice. !!!

Derrick

 

[Kernal]

VCCruzr: what did you do to get the 3rd to pop out??

 

[VCCruzr]

VCCruzr: what did you do to get the 3rd to pop out??

I had failed to remove the 2 nuts on each of the locker actuators. This freed up the diff housing but I still could not remove the thirds. I had to remove the actuators. The front removed easily but the rear requires you to remove the cover, remove the bolt from the shift fork, slide out the actuator, remove the shift fork and sleeve, and then the rear came out.

Reassembly might be fun.

 

[VCCruzr]

I got the diffs installed and re-assembled everything and did a 15 mile test run tonight. No grinding or weird noises so I guess that is a good thing. Off the line acceleration is a huge improvement. One more test run in line then a moderate wheeling trip this weekend to put the new gears to a test. I can't wait! Update to follow.....

 

[Kernal]

VCCruzr: take any photos of the process?

 

[VCCruzr]

VCCruzr: take any photos of the process?

Unfortunately, no. Most of my work on the cruiser took place after long days at work so it was dark most of the time and I was pressed for time trying to get ready for a camping/wheeling trip this weekend.

The things I learned most about this experience:

1. Read and re-read your FSM & as many threads as you can to familiarize yourself with your task at hand.

2. Don't rush! Just take your time and make it a learning experience. (The main reason I did this work myself an I am no mechanic, was to gain experience that might be needed on trail fixes. Alot of my wheeling trips are pretty remote.)

3. Invite friends to help. ( It makes it more fun)

 

[Dave 2000]

Whilst diffs are pretty tough I would be taking it easy on them for a few miles so any machine burrs or whatever wear off, I would then get the oil changed/magnets cleaned before any serious work was done

JMHO

regards

Dave

 

[TurboDennis]

I had failed to remove the 2 nuts on each of the locker actuators. This freed up the diff housing but I still could not remove the thirds. I had to remove the actuators. The front removed easily but the rear requires you to remove the cover, remove the bolt from the shift fork, slide out the actuator, remove the shift fork and sleeve, and then the rear came out.

Reassembly might be fun.

I realize this is an old thread, but I came across this thread and I'm pretty sure I know what your problem was (because I had the same problem). Maybe this post will help someone in a similar situation.

There is absolutely no need to remove the actuators to remove the 3rds (if the actuators are working). The reason you had to remove the actuators to pull the diffs is because the diffs weren't fully locked.

I was pulling the diffs recently from a truck with no dash wiring, so i could not lock the diffs with the switch. I figured i would pull the axle shafts first, and then lock the diffs "manually" by supplying voltage to the correct wires on the actuator. When i did that, i heard the motors run and proceeded to pull the diffs, but something was not allowing them to come out. After trying to wiggle it out for half an hour in every possible way, I couldn't figure out why it won't come out. But then it occurred to me that the diffs weren't locked because the teeth on the locking sleeve weren't aligned with the teeth on the diff case.
I inserted one axle shaft into the diff, and turned it a little and heard a clunk. Diff was now fully locked, and it came right out with very little effort.

 

[Box Rocket]

Anyone have a photo of the wires on the difflock actuator that need power (9V) to lock the diff manually?