Recently purchased a mint 06. Took it on a short off-road trip last weekend. Nothing too technical but it was super rocky. Trail was throwing the truck around pretty good. About an hour in I noticed a strong gas smell toward rear of vehicle. Strong enough that I though I may have damaged the tank. But no leaks. When I shut the truck off for a bit it wouldn't start. Like it was flooded. Waited 30 minutes or so and it started with some throttle input but ran a little rough until I got back on tarmac. I've read about cannister/gas smell but haven't seen where it has caused engine flooding. Any ideas? Thanks!
Strong gas smell and engine flooding (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ogrenutz
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Pretty typical charcoal canister issue on the '06. Mine does this on high mountain passes. I tend to leave it idling at elevation and avoid filling past the first click at the gas pumps. Did this happen in VA? Elevation there should not be an issue, but your description matches my experiences in an '06 at 10k+ feet elevations.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Interestingly, I was driving a 06 LC w/200K today and after about 2 hour driving around town (city & HWY) and many stops. I smelt raw gasoline while driving with 1/2 tank of gas, just after getting off HWY. At first shut down, I opened gas cap body cover. I noticed what seem to be some fumes/vapor coming from cap area. Pulled gas cap off, seal looked good. But naturally saw more vapor coming from fill neck. Also noticed the fill neck boot was not tight around neck.
I'll report back here what I find!
I'll report back here what I find!
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Bump... had the same issue today. it was really hot, so that may have something to do with it. Could see vapor coming from where the gas fill is located... 07 LC with 305k on it.
This is the mysterious "we think it is the charcoal canister" issue. Guys have spent hundreds trying to diagnose this. Most of the success is in replacing or repacking the canister but guys have done everything from changing gas tank fittings to fuel pumps and lines and all else fuel related. One thing for sure, there is usually no associated code and it is a mystery to the dealers so do not bother going to hem about it.
Many feel it should be a recall. The symptoms you describe can get far worse at altitude.
Edit: I think the highest elevation I have had my truck was Mt. Pinatubo and it is super hot there. I smelled gas but has no operational issues. I still occasionally get a random gas smell. I have not yet tried any of the suggested repairs.
Many feel it should be a recall. The symptoms you describe can get far worse at altitude.
Edit: I think the highest elevation I have had my truck was Mt. Pinatubo and it is super hot there. I smelled gas but has no operational issues. I still occasionally get a random gas smell. I have not yet tried any of the suggested repairs.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've not noticed again. So I've done nothing either.
My '05 started some venting in the Uwharrie National Forest over this last weekend. It go to be enough vapor that you can actually see where liquid started running down from the fuel cap (see pic). I could see vapors from behind the filler door most of the day. Ambient temps 90-93* that day. I just made sure the engine itself wasn't getting too warm (nothing over 205* while crawling with AC on) and it was fine. I have seen at least one truck has had a fire start from the issue.
2001LC
SILVER Star
The consensus has been charcoal canister damage. Believed damaged (flooded) from topping gas tank, past the first auto shut off of gas pump. If I had any gas come out, I would correct ASAP.
My truck does this randomly at high elevation as well as down here in ATL (at around 1,000ft). The fuel vapor pressure is great enough to bypass the properly functioning fuel cap ( a 2 yr old Toyota cap). I can see, hear and smell vapor coming from the fuel cap. Opening the fuel cap I get a flood of hot, moist vapor pressure to escape. Almost always when it happens the ambient temps are above 90. But this happens infrequently with a 1/2 tank or a full tank, no matter. I dont fill the tank past the 1st click. I have a full tank now, and temps are upwards of 100 this week and last and I haven't experienced it, (maybe only because I've been driving short trips).
My observation is as the fuel in the tank heats up ( tank is a heat sink; hot fuel is returned from the engine to the fuel tank, it may also be heated along the path as it returns to the tank, heat from the road surface while driving in traffic radiates upward into the tank) I think the EVAP system can't keep up with the amount of vapor pressure produced under these conditions. This can happen with or with out ethanol fuels.
I think to diagnose we need to look at the EVAP system as a whole checking or replacing; the fuel pressure regulator- PCV- the VSV for Evap- The VSV for Canister Closed valve-VSV for Pressure Switching Valve(on canister), Vapor Pressure sensor on the tank, and the canister it self. Even though I can test the EVAP with Techstream and the VSV's all pass as functional, the system sometimes doesn't work correctly. So somewhere in the EVAP system there is a design defect or a worn component or a service concern ( like a kinked or blocked air drain hose, purge line, air intake hose).
The section in the FSM titled EC- Emission Control has a step by step procedure for checking functionality of each of the above components in the EVAP system.
My observation is as the fuel in the tank heats up ( tank is a heat sink; hot fuel is returned from the engine to the fuel tank, it may also be heated along the path as it returns to the tank, heat from the road surface while driving in traffic radiates upward into the tank) I think the EVAP system can't keep up with the amount of vapor pressure produced under these conditions. This can happen with or with out ethanol fuels.
I think to diagnose we need to look at the EVAP system as a whole checking or replacing; the fuel pressure regulator- PCV- the VSV for Evap- The VSV for Canister Closed valve-VSV for Pressure Switching Valve(on canister), Vapor Pressure sensor on the tank, and the canister it self. Even though I can test the EVAP with Techstream and the VSV's all pass as functional, the system sometimes doesn't work correctly. So somewhere in the EVAP system there is a design defect or a worn component or a service concern ( like a kinked or blocked air drain hose, purge line, air intake hose).
The section in the FSM titled EC- Emission Control has a step by step procedure for checking functionality of each of the above components in the EVAP system.
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There was a guy who successfully abated this problem by building a heat shield near some of the fuel lines. I bought the parts but haven't had any issue in the past other than this particular day.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Adding heat shield, He likely had other issues, or we'd see all 100 series with this issue.
I still believe the hot start, and only the hot, starts with zero pressure at the rail, combined with hot fuel circulating, and a weak pump.
Yes it smells flooded, and might act like it but I don't think so. The added half second on very cold starts zero pressure that we all have is normal, overnight leakdown. The difference between an old fuel pump and a new one in hot starts and cold starts at zero rail pressure is noticeable.
Think about the flow rate of a 12 year old pump. Think about maybe vapor getting pushed through the lines.
Just because the pressure is within spec doesn't mean the pump is within spec.
Best would be an electric sender and graph it against load.
Or, buy a new pump. It's cheap.
The shield helps also they say. I put one on but never looked at temps before and after on the lines.
Make sure your not getting random or batch misfire codes and if you can look at fuel trims that gives you a clue also.
I never went looking at the canister. But positively some on here have had issues with that.
Yes it smells flooded, and might act like it but I don't think so. The added half second on very cold starts zero pressure that we all have is normal, overnight leakdown. The difference between an old fuel pump and a new one in hot starts and cold starts at zero rail pressure is noticeable.
Think about the flow rate of a 12 year old pump. Think about maybe vapor getting pushed through the lines.
Just because the pressure is within spec doesn't mean the pump is within spec.
Best would be an electric sender and graph it against load.
Or, buy a new pump. It's cheap.
The shield helps also they say. I put one on but never looked at temps before and after on the lines.
Make sure your not getting random or batch misfire codes and if you can look at fuel trims that gives you a clue also.
I never went looking at the canister. But positively some on here have had issues with that.
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I have these exact issues with my 2006 LC 100.
If temps are over 90, and I am driving for extended periods of time, always around Denver or higher elevation, sometimes as much as 10,000 ft......
My truck will start stumbling and die sometimes at a light, or won't re-start if I shut it off when hot.... the starter will turn and it will stumble around and not start....
My first fix is to stop in a parking lot somewhere if I have to cut the engine off, and then open the gas cap and let if vent for 5 or 6 minutes at a time... this has worked the last 3 times I have had the issue....
Then, I figured something else out.....
The fuel I was running was typically mid-grade for elevation here in Denver, which is 87 octane, and I have even had the issue when running the highest octane, 91; the issue has happened more when running grocery store gas (loaf and jug or Safeway gas) than higher quality brands.
I have an ethanol-free fuel pump only 1/2 mile from my house, and even though it costs $1.00 more a gallon than regular Premium, I have been running it when the temps average above 85 and I will be driving in high elevations or far off-road for work. Ever since I switched to this ethanol-free fuel, I have not smelled any vapor release ever again, and I have never been stranded or had to wait on vapors to release or had a no-start situation since.
My take is that the 10% ethanol fuel is having issues with vapor-locking because the evaporative system is not set up to deal with fuels like this, at this temperature, and at this elevation, along with a lack of heat shielding and insulation of the fuel lines up and down the entire vehicle.
If temps are over 90, and I am driving for extended periods of time, always around Denver or higher elevation, sometimes as much as 10,000 ft......
My truck will start stumbling and die sometimes at a light, or won't re-start if I shut it off when hot.... the starter will turn and it will stumble around and not start....
My first fix is to stop in a parking lot somewhere if I have to cut the engine off, and then open the gas cap and let if vent for 5 or 6 minutes at a time... this has worked the last 3 times I have had the issue....
Then, I figured something else out.....
The fuel I was running was typically mid-grade for elevation here in Denver, which is 87 octane, and I have even had the issue when running the highest octane, 91; the issue has happened more when running grocery store gas (loaf and jug or Safeway gas) than higher quality brands.
I have an ethanol-free fuel pump only 1/2 mile from my house, and even though it costs $1.00 more a gallon than regular Premium, I have been running it when the temps average above 85 and I will be driving in high elevations or far off-road for work. Ever since I switched to this ethanol-free fuel, I have not smelled any vapor release ever again, and I have never been stranded or had to wait on vapors to release or had a no-start situation since.
My take is that the 10% ethanol fuel is having issues with vapor-locking because the evaporative system is not set up to deal with fuels like this, at this temperature, and at this elevation, along with a lack of heat shielding and insulation of the fuel lines up and down the entire vehicle.
I'm in Denver too. I have the boiling gas tank/vapor from gas cap issue as well although I've never had a problem with restarting the engine. 2005 LC.
The first time I noticed the problem was on a hot day driving up to Mount Evans. I had enough vapor escaping that streaks of gas were visible running down below the gas cap door. I was using ethanol free fuel.
It happened again 2 weeks ago on Red Cone although not as bad. I was using 91 octane.
In my experience ethanol free and high octane fuel hasn't been a solution.
The first time I noticed the problem was on a hot day driving up to Mount Evans. I had enough vapor escaping that streaks of gas were visible running down below the gas cap door. I was using ethanol free fuel.
It happened again 2 weeks ago on Red Cone although not as bad. I was using 91 octane.
In my experience ethanol free and high octane fuel hasn't been a solution.
I have exactly the same experience. I always run premium (91) or ethanol-free. The gas cap is a year old, and I replaced the canister two weeks ago. It's still not fixed.
The problem is significantly better with the new canister, but I still see/smell the fumes at elevation or high temperatures. I haven't yet had it at very high elevations with high temperatures, where it has puked gas up in the past (and ruined a fresh paint job). But in the Sand Hollow/St George area last week (~3.5K elevation, ~105º temps) the fumes were awful.
I suppose a heat shield is next on the list. Along with going through the whole system as @abuck99 mentions.
I'm not 100% convinced I know the problem or solution, but my two cents based on my experience with my LC and a prior car: If the canister goes bad, the fuel system doesn't vent itself correctly. Fixes that I have done in the past that seemed to work:
- buy new gas cap
- drill pin hole in current gas cap
- after problem occurs, open gas cap (and then replace) to equalize pressure in the fuel system
On my LC, I think it started when I overfilled the gas tank. If you fill up on a hot day and then barely drive before stopping, the fuel expands and I think overwhelm the canister. I bought a new gas cap as I was popping some kind of error code (can't remember what as it was a few years ago - EGR maybe?). I don't know if the canister effectively dried out on it's own or if the new gas cap fixed the problem, but the problem stopped.
On my prior car the problem started when driving through the rain... the canister had a vent out the bottom of the car and driving through standing water on the road shot water up through the vent and waterlogged the canister. I was too poor to replace the canister, so I drilled a tiny hole in the gas cap and the problem never happened again.
- buy new gas cap
- drill pin hole in current gas cap
- after problem occurs, open gas cap (and then replace) to equalize pressure in the fuel system
On my LC, I think it started when I overfilled the gas tank. If you fill up on a hot day and then barely drive before stopping, the fuel expands and I think overwhelm the canister. I bought a new gas cap as I was popping some kind of error code (can't remember what as it was a few years ago - EGR maybe?). I don't know if the canister effectively dried out on it's own or if the new gas cap fixed the problem, but the problem stopped.
On my prior car the problem started when driving through the rain... the canister had a vent out the bottom of the car and driving through standing water on the road shot water up through the vent and waterlogged the canister. I was too poor to replace the canister, so I drilled a tiny hole in the gas cap and the problem never happened again.
Guys, i was the one who found and posted the heatshield and for me, it has completely alleviated the problem! However, prior to adding the heatshield, i replaced the charcoal canister and fuel tank vent (few people change this part! This event is located on top of the fuel tank and helps to prevent fumes to pressurize the tank properly) . These are both toyota service bulletins. i also replaced my fuel pump, only because the fuel in my tank literally boiled over on one occassion, so i knew the fuel pump had overheated. Again, this is all before i added the heatshield. Once i did add the heatshield, i have never had another issue again. The ultimate test was a family trip we took the Grand Canyon and ended up in death Valley on the way back, with an outside temp of 122°. No problem, nada, nothing...
The vapor lock, smell of fuel, fuel boiling over in my tank and engine locking up for at least five minutes was a common problem during summer trips since I purchased the LC in 2012. After adding the heatshield, I have had no such problems. I believe the problem is 100% resolved.
The vapor lock, smell of fuel, fuel boiling over in my tank and engine locking up for at least five minutes was a common problem during summer trips since I purchased the LC in 2012. After adding the heatshield, I have had no such problems. I believe the problem is 100% resolved.
One more thing to look up, appreciate the tip. At this point I'm happy to replace whatever it takes to resolve it.
I know what you mean, i felt exactly the same way. I did and the Land Cruiser is now bulletproof.
Part of the mystery behind the problem is that Land Cruiser is not a high-volume vehicle and when you narrow down that year built to one or two years, it becomes a really rare problem and the factory isn't much help...
