Strange scraping noise from he rear while turning (4 Viewers)

[HemiAlex]

It took all day, but I fixed it. Had to try several different scenarios to get it right.

The lip on the aftermarket rotor is raised 1/16” above the point referenced below in the oem rotor. I had an inconsistent rub likely from the dust shield being so close to stuff and then getting bent when you take the wheel off and you aren’t careful.

Lesson learned. Don’t rush. Use the right parts. I always get burned trying to use aftermarket parts on any Toyota.

It’s a blessing and a curse to be this motivated to fix things yourself.

 

[KLF]

Huh.. Didn't have this issue when I installed DBA rotors several years ago.

 

[NYC570]

It took all day, but I fixed it. Had to try several different scenarios to get it right.

The lip on the aftermarket rotor is raised 1/16” above the point referenced below in the oem rotor. I had an inconsistent rub likely from the dust shield being so close to stuff and then getting bent when you take the wheel off and you aren’t careful.

Lesson learned. Don’t rush. Use the right parts. I always get burned trying to use aftermarket parts on any Toyota.

It’s a blessing and a curse to be this motivated to fix things yourself.

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My OEM rotors also had this lip and scraped. The problem isn't the rotors as much as the backing plate rusting and expanding. If you get OEM rotors be prepared to do the same in case they rub as well

 

[HemiAlex]

Well, hell. The backing plate did feel a little warped and flimsy.

 

[bloc]

Well, hell. The backing plate did feel a little warped and flimsy.

You may be aware of this but unfortunately changing them means replacing the rear axle bearings.

 

[KLF]

I read on here about the trauma ($$$) and drama of replacing these backing plates, so mine are covered with a heavy coat of Amsoil Metal Protector on the inside under the rotors, and waterproof grease on the exposed faces. I check them every time I rotate the tires (@ oil changes). So far they are still pristine.

 

[HemiAlex]

You may be aware of this but unfortunately changing them means replacing the rear axle bearings.

The truck is at 293k, so even though it’s fine it may not be a bad idea.

 

[bloc]

The truck is at 293k, so even though it’s fine it may not be a bad idea.

I had to replace a rear axle bearing around 170k (from memory). And I’m definitely not the only one. So yes, not a bad thing to have on the radar.

I put together a thread on my bearing change if you want to see what’s involved..

Rear axle bearing change

Back again with something I hope will help some people eventually. I'll try not to make this too wordy, but there is a little background. I spent months tracking down a driveline noise and with the help of some board members and especially @CharlieS narrowed it down to a passenger side rear...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[tahoejoe]

My bad, I should have put this out there earlier. At the advice of my local Lexus/Toyota independent mechanic, I took the rotor off and applied an angle grinder to the inner rim of the rotor that was rubbing on the backing plate. Noise gone! Keep in mind this was the inner ring that was rubbing (see below).

As further proof that the backplate is starting to "swell" and contact the rotor, I replaced the rotors with brand new OEM rotors. I could hear AND feel the rubbing as I turned the new rotor by hand. Actually took considerable effort to turn the rotor once it was installed. The parking brake "dial" was completely loosened while attempting so I know it wasn't that. Got the grinder out again and took maybe 1/8th of inch off and the rotor then turned freely with no noise.

BTW, my belief is that the ring below should NOT be shiney, bare metal because it should NOT be contacting anything. So, if you see bare metal on that ring then I'd say with about 99% confidence you have the same issue which could be resolved in the same fashion.

Hope that helps!

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This thread helped me even though I fixed my noise problem a slightly different way.

I put on after market rotors and only had the noise coming from rear driver side. The original rotors did have the raised inner rim and it was rusty and not shiny so I knew that was not the problem. I finally noticed a shiny area on the inside of the backing plate on the opposite side of the caliper (photo 1). I believe this is the highest area of the backing plate that is most likely to rub. I ground down this area with an angle grinder (photo 2). It doesn't take much. Tolerances are very tight in this area with the rotor on (photo 3). Anyway, if you have the noise and your grinder out then give some attention to this raised area of the backing plate on the opposite side of the caliper towards the rear area of the vehicle.

[EDIT] Mine is a 100 series but I think the same idea applies.

 

[KLF]

This thread helped me even though I fixed my noise problem a slightly different way.

I put on after market rotors and only had the noise coming from rear driver side. The original rotors did have the raised inner rim and it was rusty and not shiny so I knew that was not the problem. I finally noticed a shiny area on the inside of the backing plate on the opposite side of the caliper (photo 1). I believe this is the highest area of the backing plate that is most likely to rub. I ground down this area with an angle grinder (photo 2). It doesn't take much. Tolerances are very tight in this area with the rotor on (photo 3). Anyway, if you have the noise and your grinder out then give some attention to this raised area of the backing plate on the opposite side of the caliper towards the rear area of the vehicle.

[EDIT] Mine is a 100 series but I think the same idea applies.

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I would get some paint and maybe even a healthy coat of rust preventive (water proof grease, Fluid Film, etc) on those backing plates before putting everything back together. It's a very expensive repair to replace them if they get too rusty.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

This is a pretty common issue given the small gap between the rotor and the backing plate. I've seen this on 100's and 200's. The hard fix is to replace the backing plate. The easy fix is to pull out a brass drift and give the backing plate inner ring (scraping area) a few good whacks to push it inward a small amount.

The backing plates aren't that tough, but I think they receive a fair amount of abuse from mechanics and DIYers. People hold them and pull them, when changing tires/brakes, although really they shouldn't. The plates can also be thermally stressed, and given the small tolerance, it's easy to cause "rubbing". A few smacks with a brass drift tends to alleviate enough clearance.