Strange scraping noise from he rear while turning (6 Viewers)

[BigMF]

Many local shops may not have the adapter for the toyota bearing bracket. It is a pretty specific tool and a standard assortment of press blocks and pullers won’t be enough.

Definitely call ahead of time to see if they have the tools for a similar year tundra rear bearing.. if so they can manage yours.

Also the backing plate goes on the hub-side of the bearing housing and will have to be installed while the shaft is out of the bearing. Meaning the shop will need to do that too, when they press the studs into the bearing housing. If yours aren’t rusted or really bent just keep the old ones. @cruiseroutfit has posted that they are expensive.

The backing plate is accessed after removing the wheel bearing, if I recall correctly. Have it reinstalled as a part of reassembly.

Yeah, I was looking closer at @bloc 's post and a Tundra video and was just realizing the plate would need to be replaced as part of the bearing work. There is a shop near my house that specializes in Toyota and Lexus vehicles so I'll start there with the hope he would have the appropriate tools. My backing plates are rusting on the back but still in pretty good shape. If they are expensive as suggested, I'll probably stick with what I've got.

 

[CharlieS]

Personally, if I was going to tear them apart, I’d probably bite the bullet and replace badly rusted ones. What are the odds that you’ll ever replace the bearings again in your ownership? And the rust is never going to get better, only worse. Totally a personal decision, but replacing them may be a good decision in the longer term…

 

[NYC570]

Yeah, I was looking closer at @bloc 's post and a Tundra video and was just realizing the plate would need to be replaced as part of the bearing work. There is a shop near my house that specializes in Toyota and Lexus vehicles so I'll start there with the hope he would have the appropriate tools. My backing plates are rusting on the back but still in pretty good shape. If they are expensive as suggested, I'll probably stick with what I've got.

Do you have stock or aftermarket rotors?

 

[BigMF]

Personally, if I was going to tear them apart, I’d probably bite the bullet and replace badly rusted ones. What are the odds that you’ll ever replace the bearings again in your ownership? And the rust is never going to get better, only worse. Totally a personal decision, but replacing them may be a good decision in the longer term…

That’s exactly my train of thought as well. The cheapest I can find the Toyota OEM ones are $167 per side at PartSouq.com. Almost spit my coffee out when I saw the Lexus OEM’s from a dealer were $423 per side

I’ll have to think about it some. Mine do have a bit of rust on the back but are generally in good shape.

@NYC570 , the rotors are probably OEM. They are down to 18MM total (both sides) thickness and it has "16MM Min" engraved on the rotor. So, I might go ahead and replace the rotors and pads while I'm in the rear. I'm sure I can find plenty of threads on here about good options for that.

 

[BigMF]

Quick question: Is this the ABS/Speed sensor I should clean around and carefully try to remove without breaking? I'm assuming I should disconnect the plug first.

What indicators would I look for once I've pulled the sensor to determine if the bearings are going bad?

 

[bronc076]

Sorry if this has been posted but have you looked at this thread?

New driveline noise after lift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-driveline-noise-after-lift.1228472/page-4#post-13669751

lots of info about rear wheel bearing replacement and what to look at on your wheel speed sensor.

 

[BigMF]

Sorry if this has been posted but have you looked at this thread?

New driveline noise after lift - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-driveline-noise-after-lift.1228472/page-4#post-13669751

lots of info about rear wheel bearing replacement and what to look at on your wheel speed sensor.

I had NOT seen that thread before. Perfect info for the sensor.

So, below are the images of the sensor I pulled out on the left rear, where the noise is coming from and there is rubbing on the backing plate occurring. I don't see any scratches or anything like that. There is obviously some brown sludge but not sure if that is normal because I felt like there was conflicting info on whether it should be dry or not.

Also, did the "rock it back and forth" test while holding it on the top and bottom and got no discernible movement. At this point, unless you guys think otherwise and the brown sludge is a definite sign of something, I'm inclined to believe it's the backing plate "swelling" out due to some rust behind it.There is not a lot of visible rust but since that plate is not one piece it could be hidden between multiple pieces.

My biggest concern is I have a big trip out west with my son planned for 2 months from now and really want to feel comfortable that something catastrophic is not going happen at the top of Engineer Pass.

 

[bloc]

I asked taco specifically about the brown sludge and he said it just happens sometimes even on otherwise healthy trucks. The lack of contact is a good sign. I think on mine the contact that was there wasn’t even from movement of the axle sideways, as all but one ball bearing were healthy, but the swarf coming off that ball sticking to the tone ring eventually started to hit and impact the sensor.

Even if you did have a bearing going bad I believe they will go a long time before things get dramatic. Mine probably went 5k or more as I figured out what was going on and finally found time to address it.. and while it was noisy it was still tight.

 

[turbo8]

I had the brown sludge in mine and thought it was from seeping axles seals. There wasn't any play in the bearings, but was concerned that the gear oil washed away some of the bearing grease. So I went ahead and changed out the bearings, seals and associated parts.

 

[bronc076]

I just checked out your build thread, you have a pretty nice setup.

If it were me, I'd find a shop with the tools and experience to replace them. I'd buy the parts, pull the axles myself, take the axles and parts to the machine shop, and have them do the swap, bring them home and put them back in. Earlier in this thread you asked how to keep the oil in the axle if you do both sides, I'd drain it and put new oil in. You have close to 150K miles, she has earned new wheel bearings.

That's what I'd do as I would not want a questionable wheel bearing in the back of my head, driving me crazy, with the possibility of an issue interrupting my trip with my son.

As others have said it may be fine. I personally over maintain stuff. The tricky part is finding a drive-line or machine shop you trust to do the work. You are just down the road from Nashville so there should be a bunch of good shops you can start calling.

Looks like Toyota wants rediculous money for those bearing assemblies, I'd go aftermarket. I can't find a Timkin which is my go to for bearings. Rock Auto has Moog, but I'm not sure if that' s a good name anymore or not. It's hard to distinguish between good parts and overseas crap anymore, but for what toyota is asking I'd gamble with the Moog or BuckArnley from Rock Auto if I were doing it.

Rear Wheel Bearing Assemblys for the Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series

www.moog-suspension-parts.com

Have fun!

 

[bronc076]

Turbo8, are there any markings, numbers, or a manufacture name on the OEM bearings? I'm wondering who makes them for Toyota?

 

[bronc076]

I can make out the word Japan on this pic of a moog assembly.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Sorry, that's a front....

 

[turbo8]

Turbo8, are there any markings, numbers, or a manufacture name on the OEM bearings? I'm wondering who makes them for Toyota?

I'll take a look when I get home tonight,

 

[nwfl4runner]

If you think the bearings are expensive, just wait till you see the backing plate...

 

[bloc]

I paid $315 for an OEM bearing from my local discount site. Yes, expensive, but with the number of these on cruisers and tundras going bad I want the very best quality possible. The only way to guarantee that is an OEM part. For the number of miles they go the cost isn’t significant.

 

[BigMF]

If you think the bearings are expensive, just wait till you see the backing plate...

Yeah, ridiculous that the backing plates cost as much, or more than the bearings when they are mostly stamped sheet metal. If you were to buy them from a Lexus dealer they are over $400 each.

FYI, Partsouq.com has the OEM bearing assembly for $175 each and OEM backing plate assembly for $161 each.

I'm going to ask my local Toyota/Lexus specialist what he would charge to swap the bearings and backing plates if I brought him everything just to be on the safe side.

 

[bloc]

Other parts to get are outlined in my thread. At a minimum the press fit collar, snapring, axle seal, oring. If you have rust I’d consider new studs and maybe nuts as well.
Edit: also the abs sensor stud. Though that would be cheap stateside.

 

[bronc076]

FYI, Partsouq.com has the OEM bearing assembly for $175 each

That's a cool site, I've not see it before, thanks!!

 

[BigMF]

That's a cool site, I've not see it before, thanks!!

To be honest, I've not ordered from them yet. Someone mentioned using them earlier and I started searching there. Assuming the service is good I'll definitely be starting my searches there for most stuff.

 

[grinchy]

To be honest, I've not ordered from them yet. Someone mentioned using them earlier and I started searching there. Assuming the service is good I'll definitely be starting my searches there for most stuff.

I've spent more than $1000 with partsouq. no issues at all across three shipments.