I’m inclined to agree with everyone here that it’s brake related. I have seen, on a few occasions, the fuel tank heat shield pop loose and rub on the drive shaft under hard cornering and bumps. It makes a similar metallic sheet metal sound. Good Luck!
Strange scraping noise from he rear while turning
- Thread starter BigMF
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- Thread starter
- #22
Hey guys, I finally got a chance to get back behind the rotor. I think the two "spring clips" are correct but not 100% sure. They don't appear to be rubbing on anything that I can see. Here's a closer look at one of them and they both look similar to this. Are they supposed to be fully compressed or sticking out about an inch?
Once I started looking closer at the backside of the rotor and then the backing plate/dust shield, I believe I may have found the culprit but still not 100% sure. The "inner rim" of the rotor is "shiney" clean metal and I don't know that it is supposed to be. I would think that it shouldn't be contacting anything and therefore would be the same, normal rusty color as the rest of the rotor:
When I looked at whee I think it might be rubbing the backing plate, I see this:
Do y'all think I'm correct in this being the problem and if so, what's the likely cause of these parts now coming into contact and how do I resolve it?
BTW, @use2bn83 , I looked at the heat shield and it looks fine. Thanks for the idea though.
Once I started looking closer at the backside of the rotor and then the backing plate/dust shield, I believe I may have found the culprit but still not 100% sure. The "inner rim" of the rotor is "shiney" clean metal and I don't know that it is supposed to be. I would think that it shouldn't be contacting anything and therefore would be the same, normal rusty color as the rest of the rotor:
When I looked at whee I think it might be rubbing the backing plate, I see this:
Do y'all think I'm correct in this being the problem and if so, what's the likely cause of these parts now coming into contact and how do I resolve it?
BTW, @use2bn83 , I looked at the heat shield and it looks fine. Thanks for the idea though.
I haven't really dug into this so take my comments with a grain of salt. Two thoughts
- OEM design should have enough clearance to most everything that normal flexing and loads shouldn't cause mechanisms to rub
- If there's enough deflection causing things to rub, that may suggest that the wheel bearing is worn allowing too much play
- OEM design should have enough clearance to most everything that normal flexing and loads shouldn't cause mechanisms to rub
- If there's enough deflection causing things to rub, that may suggest that the wheel bearing is worn allowing too much play
Those retainers look perfect. No issues there.
Yup, those rub spots gotta be your culprit. That shouldn't be like that.
Yup, those rub spots gotta be your culprit. That shouldn't be like that.
- Thread starter
- #26
I just started investigating some more and found some rust in the backing plate "assembly". It looks like there are actually a couple of pieces that make up the shield and there appears to be rust between them. I believe @mcgaskins and @Karbon pointed out that this might be an issue so I'm definitely leaning that way. Is the only resolution to replace the shields? If so, how much of a PITA is that to do? I feel confident in dealing with replacing most anything but if it involves things I've never personally done (like dealing with wheel bearings) then I'll need to do a lot more research on the process as a whole.
Here are a few pictures:
- Thread starter
- #27
This is what concerns me:
It looks like you need to take the axle out in order to replace the "Parking Brake Plate Sub-Assembly".
It looks like you need to take the axle out in order to replace the "Parking Brake Plate Sub-Assembly".
Nice! Glad you found the culprit. Replacing the bearings and dust shields are pretty involved. I would consider a reputable shop if you’ve not done something like it before.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Agree that replacing a backing plate is a big job requiring a press and the right specialty tool. @bloc did a recent write up on his journey taking this all apart to address wheel bearing noise.
And I am still suspicious that you have something else out of spec, like a wheel bearing. If thise wear spots were rubbing metal on metal and making noise all the time, the rusty backing plate alone could make sense, but since you only hear it intermittently while turning (I think you said that), something is moving in a way it shouldn’t, making it intermittent.
And I am still suspicious that you have something else out of spec, like a wheel bearing. If thise wear spots were rubbing metal on metal and making noise all the time, the rusty backing plate alone could make sense, but since you only hear it intermittently while turning (I think you said that), something is moving in a way it shouldn’t, making it intermittent.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Ugh. The last thing I need to tell my wife is "$1000+ on a wheel bearing" while trying to justify other expenses on the rig. Oh well.
Any significant cost savings to be had by pulling the axle myself and taking it to a shop to do the bearing/backing plate replacement?
Not really, I’d be surprised if a shop warrantied the work under those circumstances. That being said, I would pony up and replace the bearings if you’re doing backing plates.
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Before you jump that far, there's a few more diagnostic steps you can take
1) Remove ABS sensor. IIRC, it's a simple single 10mm bolt. Take a look as see if there's lot of oil/fluid, wear marks from the tone ring deflection, and nature of the fluid. That should tell you if you need to dig further
2) If there's anything suspect that turns up in step 1, pull the rear axle. It's actually reasonably easy and can be done in about 30 minutes to 1 hr. It will require disconnecting the rear brake lines and bleed though, which is still not too bad.
More info courtesy of @bloc here
New driveline noise after lift
forum.ih8mud.com
If it is the backing plate, not too much of an issue and can be bent for more clearance (if it's still structurally sound). Pulling the axle will give you full view of what's going on there.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I just had a local driveline shop change out the rear bearings. cost be $75 each side. I supplied all the parts.
I bought the parts from partsouq.com which have the hub\bearings for $175 each.
I bought the parts from partsouq.com which have the hub\bearings for $175 each.
bloc
SILVER Star
If your bearing is bad and axle moving around you can pull the ABS sensor on that side and look at the tip of it for contact. Pics of that and how it all goes together are in the above linked thread.
The plug can be a bit finicky and if you have rust there are stories of the sensor breaking off in the axle, but I still think this is the easiest way to start to diagnose a failing rear bearing.
Edit: didn’t realize teckis had the same idea. Good call. He’s also correct on pulling the axle being very quick, at least on a rust free rig. Though before doing this I’d want a fresh axle end oring on hand for reassembly.
The plug can be a bit finicky and if you have rust there are stories of the sensor breaking off in the axle, but I still think this is the easiest way to start to diagnose a failing rear bearing.
Edit: didn’t realize teckis had the same idea. Good call. He’s also correct on pulling the axle being very quick, at least on a rust free rig. Though before doing this I’d want a fresh axle end oring on hand for reassembly.
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That is a bargain of bargains
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I forgot to mention I brought the axle shafts in to the shop. They take around 30 minutes to remove from each side.
- Thread starter
- #37
I'll definitely check the ABS sensor first @bloc.
Not looking for the full tutorial here (since @bloc did a great one already). However, if the sensor shows signs of a bad bearing, what is the high-level plan if I wanted to go the same route as @turbo8?
Thanks guys!
Not looking for the full tutorial here (since @bloc did a great one already). However, if the sensor shows signs of a bad bearing, what is the high-level plan if I wanted to go the same route as @turbo8?
- Raise vehicle higher on the side you are swapping out to keep oil from draining out
- Remove brakes completely (caliper, rotor, parking) with the exception of the cylinder assembly.
- Remove the axle
- Take axle and new bearing assembly to a local shop to remove the old and install the new
- While the axle is off the vehicle (before or after the bearings being replaced) swap out the old backing plate assembly
- Re-assemble everything in reverse order (including the new axle o-ring suggested by @bloc)
Thanks guys!
bloc
SILVER Star
Many local shops may not have the adapter for the toyota bearing bracket. It is a pretty specific tool and a standard assortment of press blocks and pullers won’t be enough.
Definitely call ahead of time to see if they have the tools for a similar year tundra rear bearing.. if so they can manage yours.
Also the backing plate goes on the hub-side of the bearing housing and will have to be installed while the shaft is out of the bearing. Meaning the shop will need to do that too, when they press the studs into the bearing housing. If yours aren’t rusted or really bent just keep the old ones. @cruiseroutfit has posted that they are expensive.
Definitely call ahead of time to see if they have the tools for a similar year tundra rear bearing.. if so they can manage yours.
Also the backing plate goes on the hub-side of the bearing housing and will have to be installed while the shaft is out of the bearing. Meaning the shop will need to do that too, when they press the studs into the bearing housing. If yours aren’t rusted or really bent just keep the old ones. @cruiseroutfit has posted that they are expensive.
