- Thread starter
- #61
No problem guys
Just be ready to get back on topic if that new FCR also doesn't work
Strange Edic/Fuel Control relay woes: Please help
- Thread starter tmarx
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No problem guys
Just be ready to get back on topic if that new FCR also doesn't work
Thanks Herbs. We do have the odd HJ45 here (but nowhere near as many cruisers as you folk have - in almost any model category you care to name).
I must search to see if there are yet more vehicles that were fitted with the part numbers I'm after. (There's bound to be Dynas too.)
Edit - later: Yes the BJ40 FCR can be cannibalised from an HJ45 and the BJ40 FCM can be cannibalised from a dyna and a coaster.... But having said this - sourcing them from a wrecked BJ40 is probably still my best option (where I am situated here in NZ).
No problem guys
Just be ready to get back on topic if that new FCR also doesn't work
It's puzzling to me why such a part would work fine before your stripped things down and then fail to work after you've put everything back together again Theo. It makes me suspect that perhaps the fault could lie in the connectors - because that is all that has really been disturbed?
But anyway - i have my fingers crossed that you'll be back in business with the new FCR.
You'll have to post a picture to show us what a brand spanking new one really looks like too!
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- Thread starter
- #63
For me too
but lets trust our tests and results untill proven otherwise. I have lost enough sleep over this 
I might as well throw this question in here.Has anybody any ideas about whether there are any internal/operational differences between these two FCRs:
All the photos are from Tofudebeest .........I stole them from this thread of his:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...8260-oil-pressure-switch-edic-relay-what.html
Apparently he was sold the 28590-57010 FCR as a replacement for his damaged 28590-56090 FCR. (I understand he never got the 57010 to work either - and that he thought the reason for this might lie elsewhere.)
My guess is that the only difference is the mounting bracket. (One is attached to the side and the other is attached to the top.)
As he points out in his thread - the connectors are identical.
Even if this post generates no replies/ideas ..... I think it is still worthwhile putting the images here to show the different mounting tabs.
When everything is in the one thread (or at least linked to the one thread) - it obviously becomes far easier for other people to find out what they want to know.
And I had a feeling somebody else had done a lot of work a few years ago to help us understand the Fuel-Control/EDIC system. .... Sure enough that someone was Sandcruiser. (Just rediscovered it today!)
So here is some info he posted about the 28590-56090 FCR and the related FCM:
Google Image Result for http://www.sandcruiser.com/07pics/edic/p8240420.jpg
to Sandcruiser
(No need at all to dismantle this later model FCM myself now.
)
And I had a feeling somebody else had done a lot of work a few years ago to help us understand the Fuel-Control/EDIC system. .... Sure enough that someone was Sandcruiser. (Just rediscovered it today!)
So here is some info he posted about the 28590-56090 FCR and the related FCM:
Google Image Result for http://www.sandcruiser.com/07pics/edic/p8240420.jpg
to Sandcruiser(No need at all to dismantle this later model FCM myself now.
)- Thread starter
- #66
Even if this post generates no replies/ideas ..... I think it is still worthwhile putting the images here to show the different mounting tabs.
It is more than that Tom. Now Toy have come back to tell me that they can only supply me with 28590-57010 in mid Jan 2010
. However they do have stock of 28590-56090. I am tempted to order it but are we sure that they only differ i.r.o the housings ?
It is more than that Tom. Now Toy have come back to tell me that they can only supply me with 28590-57010 in mid Jan 2010
Well I'd hate to be responsible for you wasting your time and money Theo. So I'm not going to put my neck on the line and say I'm sure.
But, it looks to me that if you were to grab that image off Sandcruiser's site showing the muddy internals of his 28590-56090 FCR, rotate it 90 degrees and place it alongside the image you posted of the internals of your 28590-57010 FCR ( post #22) - they'd be identical!
Tell you what - I'll do this tomorrow when I'm back on my home computer and post the result (unless someone beats me to it meanwhile). Then we can check if all the wires and components are identical between the two. (I believe that Tofudebeest has shown us already that the connectors are identical.)
Does Toy still manufacture these things?
I rang Toy over here some time ago and they don't stock a single thing for the 40 series, neither did they make an offer to import parts from Japan. I know that Japan still stocks quite a bit of stuff.
I rang Toy over here some time ago and they don't stock a single thing for the 40 series, neither did they make an offer to import parts from Japan. I know that Japan still stocks quite a bit of stuff.
Nice to know that you're no better off with "Toyota Australia" than I am with "Toyota New Zealand" Alex.
Here the desk-parts-people seem to access a "NZ-specific database" and they don't appear to be familiar with the "worldwide-distribution database".
And should you be lucky enough to find someone capable of accessing the world-wide database - then they make sure you pay an arm and a leg (and wait a long time for delivery).
They are simply not worth approaching for ANYTHING IMO.
We are probably better off approaching Toyota Dan in the USA and paying the frieght from there
Yep, a helpful bunch they sure aren't 
Toyota Dan sounds like the place then.
Toyota Dan sounds like the place then.
I got a quote for new FCR a couple of months ago through my local Toyota dealer and they had one at Toyota's main Australian warehouse. I could get it within a couple of days. Price wasn't pretty though....$572.
- Thread starter
- #73
Well I'd hate to be responsible for you wasting your time and money Theo. So I'm not going to put my neck on the line and say I'm sure.
But, it looks to me that if you were to grab that image off Sandcruiser's site showing the muddy internals of his 28590-56090 FCR, rotate it 90 degrees and place it alongside the image you posted of the internals of your 28590-57010 FCR ( post #22) - they'd be identical!
Tell you what - I'll do this tomorrow when I'm back on my home computer and post the result (unless someone beats me to it meanwhile). Then we can check if all the wires and components are identical between the two. (I believe that Tofudebeest has shown us already that the connectors are identical.)
Well without changing any of our plans Tom
I have managed to find us 2 x 28590-56090(used) on appro that should arrive here this weekend , so we will find out. In addition a 12V 3B Troopy has just been booked into a friend's shop for a 3rd member rebuild so I will try to get his (hopefully) working 28590- 57010 and try it on my truck and also try the 56090 on the 3B troopy - That should give us some answers
Well without changing any of our plans Tom
OK - I'll still go ahead (as Emailed this morning) unless you notify me otherwise within 3 hours.
Meanwhile - here are the 56090 (left) and 57010 (right) alongside each other. If I was a betting man I'd say they must be operationally-identical:
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- Thread starter
- #75
OK - I'll still go ahead (as Emailed this morning) unless you notify me otherwise within 3 hours.
Thanks for doing so ..
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Ok, so I got my hands onto a working FCR and FCM via a friend but I still don't have joy
Bummer!
My BJ40 is too different from your BJ42 Theo - Otherwise I could have posted what FCR inputs/outputs occur in my wagon from various key positions.
If someone with a similar BJ42 to yours can do it, it would only entail - - - - disconnecting the starter solenoid (disconnecting a 1-wire connector near the starter) to stop the starter from cranking, and then:
- Disconnecting the FCR connector (by the glovebox) and using a multimeter on the "FCR loom plug" to record what happens at each terminal when the key is in the off, run and start positions.
- Reconnecting the FCR and then disconnecting the FCM connector and recording again what happens when the key is in those same positions.
- Then with the key "off", reconnecting the starter solenoid and FCM connector to get the vehicle back to its pre-test situation.
- Then post the results for Theo .
But Theo - Check you have the earth lead in place between your engine and chassis. In fact - check you have "continuity" between the negative terminal on your battery and the bodies of both your FCR and FCM. ........................ I still think "poor earthing" could be a cause of all this.
And I haven't got any other ideas at present
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- #79
Tom I have a lead between the neg- terminal and the bottom of the bellhousing. It then also splits from the - terminal to the left fender but with my fender not in place at the moment I "earthed" that one to the radiator surround cum fan shroud. ?? Should I run some more straps ? When I tested for continuity on the block it seems to test fine ?
Excuse the ignorance guys and bear with me as I try to learn here:
Last night's progress:
When switching the new multimeter onto Omega and without touching anything the default reading is 0.L. Connecting the two multimeter's terminals gives a reading of 0.3 ohms. Connecting the one to the neg- on the batt and taking a reading off the block, head and chassis(through the left fender mounting captive nuts) all gave a reading of 0.3 ohms.
Armed with this I tried to take a reading of the FCM body- From the armiture housing(painted) I got no reading -just 0.L . From the gearhousing I got a reading but it was not stable and I really had to scratch around to get a stable reading of 0.5 ohms and higher. Then I went to the FCR body, initially it varied between no reading(ie 0.L) and jumping around. Some places would give 0.L and others would give 0.3 ohms.
So I tried the preheat timer and starter relay bodies also and also got non-consistent readings. I then removed the FCR, preheat timer relay and starter relay. I sanded down all the mounting tabs and tapped all the captive nuts again to remove all traces of paint. This improved matters in the sense that on all the mounting bolts and the bodies of those 3 relays I got eventual readings of 0.3 - 0.6 ohms although it sometimes took a bit of time to settle. I then tried to start her again but still the Edic doesn't move.
Any further Ideas ? Where/how/should I install additional earth straps ?
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Theo, unless you have a $400-$500 meter those low ohm readings will be meaningless. The resistance reading could be more than indicated or it could just be 0. Even with a good meter, you have to subtract the resistance of the probe leads from the total. If your meter has a "Relative" button then press the two probes together then press Relative. The meter will then be zeroed. But like I said, don't rely on the readings too much unless its something like a Fluke brand meter.
