Looks like 1/2"-20 SAE from the pic ...
Sarge
Sarge
Builds STPCHLD's rebirth recorded
- Thread starter Rainman
- Start date
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Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
It *could* be SAE. I was just assuming it was metric. However, I'm going the "swap it" route first.
0.537 is very close to 17/32"
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Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Spoke to Bryce at CruiserOutfitters - sending a replacement.
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #66
Nothing going on over the last couple of days. NO. It's NOT due to the snow. All 2" of sleet and then 1/2" os snow today. My garage isn't insulated. It's gonna be something like -3* tonight. note: If you're north and west of me, just excuse this entire post. If not, IT'S DAMN COLD!
I started working on the center arm assembly and got as far as removing the center arm......
..... ... . .. . ..........
(I'll get back with you)
I started working on the center arm assembly and got as far as removing the center arm......
..... ... . .. . ..........
(I'll get back with you)
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Bryce got one shipped out yesterday Priority. You should see it shortly. I'm not sure if he sent a call tag for the bad one but we can email that over.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Bryce got one shipped out yesterday Priority. You should see it shortly. I'm not sure if he sent a call tag for the bad one but we can email that over.
Thanks Kurt - you guys are TOP NOTCH! Great customer service. (Plus I'm brown-nosing you as I need to order another complete OME kit very soon!)
Say the word, we'll get you taken care of
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #70
It's been a few weeks since I've been able to work on the 40 but here's a quick look at the center arm assembly. If I had a bigger garage, I'd take shots of the new suspension. I'll pull the Hudson out today later and get a side shot if I get time.
Just a series of rebuild shots. Not complete instructions (unless somebody needs some questions answered. I will say that I'm only partially concerned that the lid WILL NOT go any further down. And that's with the original spring. The new spring wouldn't even let me put the lid on. PITA!
For some reason the forum won't et me add any shots. Says "there is a problem." I'll post later...
Just a series of rebuild shots. Not complete instructions (unless somebody needs some questions answered. I will say that I'm only partially concerned that the lid WILL NOT go any further down. And that's with the original spring. The new spring wouldn't even let me put the lid on. PITA!
For some reason the forum won't et me add any shots. Says "there is a problem." I'll post later...
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #73
Also.
The Frankentruck raised it's ugly head again today. Turns out while making the replacement brake lines I ran into a snag installing the very first line. The line that runs between both wheel cylinders in the back. I call it RWC-E-7/70. Well the guy swapped the front axle for a disc brake setup. Good. What was he thinking when he swapped out the forward two banjo fittings on the rear housing to 10mm banjos? So now I have to make the two lines with 9mm and 10mm nuts.
Note:
This is only Frankentruck due to the mismatched brake system. I'll have to watch for the "mixed nut's in other places. I know it will happen more than once. Good thing these lines will never rust. The next time they would need to be replaced I'd be the be blamed for the screwup.
The Frankentruck raised it's ugly head again today. Turns out while making the replacement brake lines I ran into a snag installing the very first line. The line that runs between both wheel cylinders in the back. I call it RWC-E-7/70. Well the guy swapped the front axle for a disc brake setup. Good. What was he thinking when he swapped out the forward two banjo fittings on the rear housing to 10mm banjos? So now I have to make the two lines with 9mm and 10mm nuts.
Note:
This is only Frankentruck due to the mismatched brake system. I'll have to watch for the "mixed nut's in other places. I know it will happen more than once. Good thing these lines will never rust. The next time they would need to be replaced I'd be the be blamed for the screwup.
sterling
SILVER Star
I read a review on a well known LC parts supplier for their center arm rebuild kit and they used the old cap too, warned others not to toss the old cap. Seems to be the norm.
I'm curious if you see any positive results from the rebuild, it's on my list.
Try working on a truck that's 1/2 Chevy, 1/2 Toyota, and a mixture of metric/SAE/misc. hardware store/JIS small-head bolts. Never know which socket to grab!
I feel your pain, Rainman!
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
- Thread starter
- #76
Almost finished with the brake system. Once the lines are all in, I'll go back and check the pads and shoes. I've only got to make up the chassis line which I have made the master pattern for. Turns out it's one of the 3 odd ball lines on the 40s. This chassis line only runs for 4 months. 3/70 through 6/70. Those crazy Japs...
The other line left is the Master to the rear line. This is a one-off for this truck. I hate to admit it but I hate creating these firewall lines. It seems to take forever and you feel like your banging your head on the wall util poof. It's done. I'm just glad this is only a one truck thing. (I'm almost through banging my head with this one.)
Here are some shots of the finished install for most of the lines.
This is my redo on the feed line for the front axle. Since this is a disc conversion on an early truck, the feed from the Master Cylinder id on the driver's side and runs what I call a "Front Frame Loop" under the bib and to a fitting near the shock tower on the passenger side. The 2 and 3-way junctions were damaged so I used a union (shown on the left) with an Adell clamp for the replacement. Then I used another clamp attached to the frame for the flex hose. Much simpler and cleaner than running all the way around the battery and getting out the welder.
NiCopps on the caliper and short front axle line. (I see I need to un-swivel the flex hose a bit. I'll do that when I go over the entire system again with the wrenches.) {These lines are for 9/75 through 8/77, axle, and through 7/80 for the calipers}
This axle line does use the original clips for the line. At least these aren't in the way.
The other line left is the Master to the rear line. This is a one-off for this truck. I hate to admit it but I hate creating these firewall lines. It seems to take forever and you feel like your banging your head on the wall util poof. It's done. I'm just glad this is only a one truck thing. (I'm almost through banging my head with this one.)
Here are some shots of the finished install for most of the lines.
This is my redo on the feed line for the front axle. Since this is a disc conversion on an early truck, the feed from the Master Cylinder id on the driver's side and runs what I call a "Front Frame Loop" under the bib and to a fitting near the shock tower on the passenger side. The 2 and 3-way junctions were damaged so I used a union (shown on the left) with an Adell clamp for the replacement. Then I used another clamp attached to the frame for the flex hose. Much simpler and cleaner than running all the way around the battery and getting out the welder.
NiCopps on the caliper and short front axle line. (I see I need to un-swivel the flex hose a bit. I'll do that when I go over the entire system again with the wrenches.) {These lines are for 9/75 through 8/77, axle, and through 7/80 for the calipers}
This axle line does use the original clips for the line. At least these aren't in the way.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Looking like your typical works of art Rainey. Very nice.
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Did you get the parts?
Seat brackets. Think about those designs. If you draw them I'll make them.
