Build STPCHLD's rebirth recorded

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Have test fitted the gas tank? Not seeing issue with the hold down straps. The brace behind the transmission cover may interfere with the 73-78 style tank where the floor was flat. Believe the 65 bench seat leg leg on the back right side is different than the 71 seat. If you using a 73-78 tank your already dealing adapting the filler neck in that area. I installed 74 bucket seats in my 68 over thirty years ago. Did a small amount of adapting to keep the tool box and cover. Hated to give up a place to lock tools in with the top off.
 
cruiseraz said:
Will anyone have any parts/stuff for the FJ40?
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Racer65 said:
Now we know why these boosters are getting hard to find. Because they are all in your garage!
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Those have been there for a long time. Long time before the shortage. One of those I pulled from a 79 back in 83. Cruiser had 40K miles when it was involved in a accident that smashed the front and back. It was the spot in the winshield where it looked like a head had hit I pulled the roll bar and three point seat belts. Since I bought the side doors I also picked up the steering column to get a matching ignition switch. The inside shaft was straight the housing was bent. Good reminder to always wear your seat belt. The seat belts still lock up fine so figure the driver wasn't wearing it.
 
@Vae Victus, chime in... @KY Longhunter, talk amongst your selves on prices please...

How much for the driver seat frame? With lid. (Since I don't know if it's a one piece deal or two.)
How good of a condition is it in?
Same with the straps... Don't they have felt under them? Is that complete trash?

After test fitting the new style tank in I can see a few issues but not sure about the straps. The large rack (I believe) is tweaked a bit. The feet don't line up with the mounting holes on the floor. (easily worked out though) I see that I'll need to massage the lip around the tank to make room for the rack but that's not a problem either. I also see that the filler neck needs to be cut short before a hose can be attached. Again, no biggie. The wizard before me used 3 half hockey pucks and SERIOUSLY glued them in under the tank to hold the poly tank up. What?.. I may have to get the jack hammer out to get them to let go and drop the tank for the straps. We shall see.

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When I was evaluating seating options, I talked with scat/procar about their seats/bases. According to them, their bases will mount on the existing seat base that you have. I might have a spare drivers side if you need it. I don't have the toolbox lid. Check out the discussion linked for part numbers; https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bench-to-buckets.798217/#post-9103834
 
The cover for the tool box is a separate piece and not part of the driver's seat. While it would fit with the cover the seat would fit better with it. The latches that hold it in the front would need to be lowered to make up seat be lower.
 
Thanks. I do believe we (Scott... "VV") want to use the factory lid and racks then put aftermarket, Cruiser looking buckets on them. Then put the existing rear long jump seats in the back with no roll bar. I do believe he's found the seats and racks that will allow us to attach to the original racks. We have the large one right now.

For this part of the rebirth, we need:
Driver's side seat rack and mounts. Original.
Tool box lid. Original.
Seats. Aftermarket.
Seat rails/racks. Aftermarket.
 
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This is a pic of the seat base/slider mounted into the truck. It sits on top of toolbox lid and the front latches onto the toolbox. I am still trying to figure out why my seat was bolted in upside down.

It almost looks like you could fab a flat stock bar w/ tabs directly to the stock seat base and it would work well.

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Probably the best pictures I have of the seat base for my 70. First pictures shows how the seat base would sit on the front of the toll box minus the lid. That is the only place the seat base touches the lid. Do you have the two latches on the front of the tool box? Plus the two brackets for the Back? Because the bottom of the seat will not flip up without hitting the steering to really get in the tool box you need to remove driver's seat. Another thing to do is get a piece of wood that you can use to hold the lid/seat up against the steering wheel like the rod used for the hood. Makes it a lot easy getting stuff out if you not having to hold it up with one hand while getting something out with the other hand.
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what an awesome feature. It's stuff like the tool box that makes me regret not looking at older 40's more seriously. Like the door interior w/ the metal more too.
 
Living in the Past said:
Probably the best pictures I have of the seat base for my 70. First pictures shows how the seat base would sit on the front of the toll box minus the lid. That is the only place the seat base touches the lid. Do you have the two latches on the front of the tool box? ...
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Nope. No latches, no lid, no hinge brackets. All gone... (dummy...)
 
Okay, so here's the PO's great idea for tank support...

(I love NHL hockey, but this?)

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May be but there were only three and the tank wobbles. So out they came...
 
Awesome, now you have something to use for that body lift VV always wanted:confused:
 
Just thought about this: if we put a bench in it, since it was converted from a 3 on the tree to a floor shift, that bench will be in the way of the shifter to some degree. May just need to stay with the bucket aftermarket seats.
 
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