Steering Problems After Lift and Frame Reinforcement (2 Viewers)

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Aug 5, 2016
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Vancouver, Canada
So I am having more steering problems after installing new shocks, springs, adjustable panhard, Dobinson adjustable steering damper, and a steering box frame reinforcement kit (I moved the steering box aside but didn't disconnect it when I installed the kit).

1. Tough steering - feels almost like I am driving without power steering. PS pump did not leak, fluid level seems OK, steering box is not making any noises. When installing the lift, I had disconnected both tie rod ball joints so I thought maybe I over tightened them, but they seem fine.

UPDATE Mar 18, 24: Thanks for some good advice below, the problem turned out to be a damaged 2 wire harness to the solenoid on top of the steering box.

2. Steering wheel play - I always had some steering wheel play, but it got significantly worse. I can now move the steering wheel about 20-25% in either direction before it engages.

Any thoughts or useful links?

Edit: added photos
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What reinforcement kit do you install? We need several good photos of this from all angles including but not limited to: the steering box and track bar installation. The info you have provided so far leaves a lot to the imagination.
 
What reinforcement kit do you install? We need several good photos of this from all angles including but not limited to: the steering box and track bar installation. The info you have provided so far leaves a lot to the imagination.
Added photos to the original post.

The reinforcement kit is basically the same as the Delta one here

I also just added some fresh atf to top it off to the highest “cold” level and noticed a marked improvement in steer boost. Going to flush the system tomorrow with hydraulic oil, hopefully DTE-24 if I can find it.
 
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Nothing looks amiss in the photos. Does that steering damper have a piston rod at both ends? It’s adjustable how? You didn’t have this issue prior to installing the damper correct? You might remove it and test the steering again.
 
What about the rag joint in your steering shaft or the coupler when you moved the steering box to install your reinforcement kit? Did you damage or tear that old joint, it’s a common thing to cause wheel play in general when it get old.

I agree start with the dampener starting there, put your old one back in and try it. Or follow the instructions and set you new one to the softest settings and see if there is an increase in how easy your steering input is.

Edit maybe when you moved the steering box you got an air bubble or or a few in the system since you say you had to add some fluid to the system. Maybe you could do a new steering gear box install bleed of your system as well. But if your going to flush and replace the fluid you have your going to do that anyway.
 
FWIW, you cannot over tighten tierod ends.

Agree with the others.
You might be onto something with adding fluid and flushing/ bleeding the steering system.

Drag link ( in front of diff) should need a small adjustment in length to compensate for the stiffener plate you welded in, tierod (behind diff) should stay as it was. This shouldn't change the way the steering feels or change the amount of play at the steering wheel
 
Nothing looks amiss in the photos. Does that steering damper have a piston rod at both ends? It’s adjustable how? You didn’t have this issue prior to installing the damper correct? You might remove it and test the steering again.
I will try removing it - I keep on forgetting that you can drive with out it (shouldn’t, but can)
 
FWIW, you cannot over tighten tierod ends.

Agree with the others.
You might be onto something with adding fluid and flushing/ bleeding the steering system.

Drag link ( in front of diff) should need a small adjustment in length to compensate for the stiffener plate you welded in, tierod (behind diff) should stay as it was. This shouldn't change the way the steering feels or change the amount of play at the steering wheel
I had to do a pretty significant adjustment to the drag link length to competent for the plate and the lift, probably an extra 10-12 mm, to center the steering wheel again.

I will do the flush tonight and report back
 
Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth a couple inches each way with the car on, look in the hood to make sure steering shaft going in to box is moving equivalently. Then look at the arm coming out of the bottom of the steering box. Is is moving as well? If not, it’s something within the steering box that’s maybe binding? Maybe reinstalling the steering shaft had something not put in correctly?
Gotta trace all the mechanical parts through steering box to wheels to see where it is screwy. Any chance you damaged link ends when doing the kit?
 
How can you tell if they are damaged? There is no play in the tie rod ball joints and they seem to move smoothly.
That would be how you tell if that is the cause of excessive play. If the steering feels like it’s almost binding or way too heavy then I would trace movement from the steering wheel down to the steering box and then see if your Pitman arm coming out of the steering box is moving as well.
 
Exactly which model of 80 series are we working with here? @96TrailSurfer
 
Is it just as tough to steer with the front end on jack stands and the engine running?

Did you get it aligned after all the parts were swapped out? Your toe could be out of spec causing the play characteristics. Lifting these trucks changes the caster even after an alignment. not sure if it was previously lifted, but if it was stock before this, then you could just be feeling the caster changes that come naturally with a lift. caster plates would help, but another free mod is make a slight adjustment on the steering box screw on top of the steering box. its a little tough to adjust on the rhd models since the battery box is just barely in the way but doable if your screw isnt super gunked up.

If it were my truck i'd simply remove that steering damp to see if the steering changes. its free and would take a few minutes to narrow down the issue.
 
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s there an electrical solenoid attached to the forward end of the steering box?
I believe so, at least based on the parts diagram for my year, there should be a pressure control valve solenoid.

Is it just as tough to steer with the front end on jack stands and the engine running?
no, when the wheels are off the ground, steering is fine
Did you get it aligned after all the parts were swapped out? Your toe could be out of spec causing the play characteristics. Lifting these trucks changes the caster even after an alignment. not sure if it was previously lifted, but if it was stock before this, then you could just be feeling the caster changes that come naturally with a lift. caster plates would help, but another free mod is make a slight adjustment on the steering box screw on top of the steering box. its a little tough to adjust on the rhd models since the battery box is just barely in the way but doable if your screw isnt super gunked up.
I got an alignment done, but no change on the steering stiffness. The truck came with lift and radius arm drop brackets. The current caster is 0.3 degrees, which I understand is way below specs for these trucks, and I plan to put in caster correcting bushings in the short term and get caster corrected arms in the long term. But I don't think it should affect the steering stiffness so much?
I plan to to adjust the screw to see if it helps with the steering wheel play
If it were my truck i'd simply remove that steering damp to see if the steering changes. its free and would take a few minutes to narrow down the issue.
Will do that tonight, just in case.
 
I plan to to adjust the screw to see if it helps with the steering wheel play

It probably won't, and if it does, it will be minimal.
If the box is badly worn, tightening this screw enough to make a difference will potentially also cause binding when close to full lock.

Adjust in small increments and check for binding
 
It probably won't, and if it does, it will be minimal.
If the box is badly worn, tightening this screw enough to make a difference will potentially also cause binding when close to full lock.

Adjust in small increments and check for binding
that's what I understand as well from watching videos on this
 

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