Build Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread

[Charles4x4]

Found a few hours last night to remove the Painless kill switch that didn't work and also dropped the stock tank. Within seconds, I realized installing the OEM setup (with upgraded pumps and filter) in the fuel cell wouldn't work as I could never get the seal right (Toyota made it complicated).

So, we need to go with a standard external fuel cell external, EFI based system and I'll just go with an aftermarket sender and gauge. I'll either have to tie it into the stock fuel lines (pic below) or just run it from scratch from the rails or all the way.

Stock Tank:

Stock Lines at Rear Drivers door frame rail:

Stock Connectors:

Lots of space now:

There is an access hatch just before where the cell will be that we can use to run the lines through and into the cargo area.
I'll plan to call Aeromotive later today. Suggestions welcome.

 

[Charles4x4]

Just purchased the Blue Sea 9002e, a bunch of 2 gauge wire, and a 4-Post Power Distribution block for the "Out".

Wiring will be:
In 1: Battery
In 2: Alternator Power In
Out: Wire that goes to 4-Post Distribution Block. Alternator Power Out, Distribution Block/Fuse Box, and Anything Else

Fingers crossed third time's a charm. Thanks for everyone's help.

Fuel system up next...

 

[Pacer]

Just purchased the Blue Sea 9002e, a bunch of 2 gauge wire, and a 4-Post Power Distribution block for the "Out".

Wiring will be:
In 1: Battery
In 2: Alternator Power In
Out: Wire that goes to 4-Post Distribution Block. Alternator Power Out, Distribution Block/Fuse Box, and Anything Else

Fingers crossed third time's a charm. Thanks for everyone's help.

Fuel system up next...

Good, now go find that battery drain, cuz I doubt it was the kill switch.
What else have you changed/installed which may be the culprit, something that tweeks the ECU signal, no?

 

[Charles4x4]

Good, now go find that battery drain, cuz I doubt it was the kill switch.
What else have you changed/installed which may be the culprit, something that tweeks the ECU signal, no?

MAF Calibrator on ECU + Air Fuel Ratio Gaige. That’s it.

Given Painless description said it might drain the battery (despite Tech saying they didn’t think it would) and the fact that they have one that is specifically designed to not drain the battery (but isn’t race HD), makes me believe it was the switch.

I can’t tell for sure since the fuel tank is out and the cell isn’t in yet. It’ll de dead for the next couple weeks.

 

[Pacer]

MAF Calibrator on ECU + Air Fuel Ratio Gaige. That’s it.

Not calling you on diagnoses, just have a gut feeling this may not be resolved...
Thanks for keeping the updates rolling, wish I could help!

 

[matzell]

I think you are over thinking this. Forget about alt voltage. When you kill the battery, the car dies period. One switch, you only have one pos battery post correct? battery pos to switch, switch to vehiclle.

 

[Charles4x4]

I think you are over thinking this. Forget about alt voltage. When you kill the battery, the car dies period. One switch, you only have one pos battery post correct? battery pos to switch, switch to vehiclle.

It was news to me too. This was from Pirate:

“Depends on the type of alternator system. Basic systems will shut off as soon as you lose battery power but more complex ones have an ACU (alternator control unit) that is capable of sustaining power to the field winding in event of loss of battery power. Depending on the system the ACU may be integrated into the alternator or a remote unit.”

So we’ll be running both the battery and alternator through the 2 In, 1 out switch to kill both concurrently.

 

[Charles4x4]

Okay, I literally spent hours with Aeromotive Tech today (Brett is solid) and here's the initial plan:
- Phantom 200 Stealth EFI Fuel System:
Phantom 200 Stealth Fuel System – Aeromotive, Inc
- Use ORB-06 to AN-06 Fittings for Supply and Return
- Run steel braided line from AN-06 to existing Supply and Return hard lines
- Use AN-06 to 6MM / 8MM Female adapters back to OEM Hard Lines along frame
We'll cap the vent on the Phantom (ORB-06 Port Plug) and instead run AN-8 from the fuel cell vent to the OEM charcoal catchment can (which should meets KOH Rules after a lot of routing).
The Phantom will drop in the cell (via 3.25" Hole Saw) and work fine with Alltech baffles. I'll then do a slightly larger hole in the lid of the cell to make sure it doesn't contact when sealed.
I also got a 10" Fuel Level Sender and Ohm converter from Summit that'll hopefully allow us to use our stock gauge (if not, we'll use aftermarket).
If anyone sees any issues with this system, let me know. Aeromotive had never worked on a 4.7L V8, so it took a lot of pictures and hours of diagnosing to figure it all out.
Now I just need to find 6MM and 8MM Female to AN-06 Male adapters...

 

[Charles4x4]

Deleted

 

[Charles4x4]

I have to travel a good bit for work this week, but wanted to send out a quick update. Lots of work done this past week:

- Atlas II 3.8 Trail Case and Adapater for A750F ordered and should be in AL in time for me to load it up for the drive to CA. Thanks again to Advance Adapters for their sponsorship on this build!

- East Coast Gear Supply also signed up to sponsor the build. We're getting the Front Nitro 4.56 Gears, Install Kit, and our Front ARB Locker from ECG! The rear Currie RJ60 already has the ARB installed.

- Aermotive is also sponsoring the build - we'll be running their Phantom 200 Kit and they've included various adapters we'll need for AN lines.

- Ordered a ton of parts for the fuel system on Friday - mostly Russell fittings and AN6 lines. Who knows if I got what I'll actually need.

- New "basic" master kill switch also ordered and on it's way that should solve finally our Battery/Alternator problem.

- Classic Instruments Fuel Level Sender and Ohm converter arrived over the weekend. Since no-one has a sender that works with the OEM Toyota gauge, this converter should allow us to make it work:

- Rear LED race light came in from Amazon. Amber and Red with Clear Centers (acts as reverse LED lights). Hope to have time to mount/wire it this week - likely put it on the spoiler and have to double/triple mount it so it doesn't fly off:

- My wife and girls were kind enough to take a road trip to TN with me to hunt through a Toyota heavy salvage yard south of Nashville on Saturday. Cool owners from Jordan who had been in the states for 30-yrs - they had a ton of 4th gen doors! The place was a mud pit though. But we found solid doors for an extremely low price. We'll leave the glass in till it gets to CA (in case it rains):

At this point, all key sponsors are landed and all key purchases have been made for this build. The main things left are electrical (master kill switch, race light, & MAF Calibrator), fuel system (plumbing, fuel pressure gauge, & cell temporary mount), salvage door install with secondary locks, and then the drive out to CA where the real work begins (suspension, steering, cage, armor, axles, t-case, tries/wheels, etc). I may also try to fit in safety nets and latches before the drive over if I have time.

One question:
Rugged Radios has agreed to sponsor us with a discount, but I'm honestly really surprised at how much comms cost, even with the discount. Are there any lower budget solutions out there for Vehicle to Pit/Pit to Vehicle and Driver to Co-Driver communications? Similar to what LeadNav is doing for Navigation (as a cheaper Lowrance alternative)?

For example, I've looked at bluetooth motorcycle Driver to Rider devices that could help with comms for $150 or so on Amazon.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Charles4x4]

On safety nets, it is my understanding that SFI 27.1 Cert requires:

1) Window nets are required to be constructed either entirely from 1″ Webbing Material, or from Mesh Material with a strip of 1″ Webbing at 8 inch intervals across the length of the net.

2) The net must be secured to the vehicle on the top and bottom by either a Spring Rod or Latch System. This allows for a quick disconnect of the net by the occupants, regardless of the position of the vehicle. For small triangle style nets grommets are recommended.

Question: Is there increased visibility of Mesh with 1" Webbing at 8" intervals? Or does everyone just go with 1" webbing for simplicity?

And what about Spring Rod vs. Latch?

Spring Rod:

Latch:

Per the rules:
"Nets attached to door frames are permitted."
-----This is what we'll do.-----
"Nets must be installed so that the occupants can release the netting unassisted and exit the vehicle regardless of the position of the vehicle."
"The net border or edge and the net attachment must be made of materials that are as strong as, or stronger than, the net itself. Net attachments must be at a minimum of every 6 inches. Acceptable attachments include, but are not limited to: steel hose clamps, snaps, lift-a-dot, metal hooks, and steel rods. Nets must be tight so that when subject to a pushing force of approximately 50lbs the net deflects no more than four inches."

 

[Charles4x4]

A little more progress last night...

Also got all the door hardware swapped over to the salvage doors so all we have left is to install them.

 

[Charles4x4]

A few more goodies from our sponsors at East Coast Gear Supply just arrived!

4.56 Front Nitro Gears that to match the rear 4.56 gears in the Currie RJ60:

Front ARB air locker to match the rear ARB in the Currie RJ60:

 

[cruisermatt]

4.56 was the lowest you could get? That is way too steep of a ratio.

 

[Charles4x4]

4.56 was the lowest you could get? That is way too steep of a ratio.

We ran a ton of math. We'll have a 3.8 Atlas II, so Low Range will be LOW! We wanted solid acceleration while balancing strength of the gears. It was either 4.56 or 4.88 and both BigMike and Wyatt felt 4.56 was the better option.

We have the HP/Torque (~315HP / 350 Torque), we have solid acceleration, and our Crawl Ratio with the Atlas II is plenty low in Low Range. Anything lower would risk blowing up the front diff more.

Guys on Pirate wanted 5.29, but neither Marlin or RockSolidToys were comfortable at that ratio.

 

[cruisermatt]

Where are you getting the extra 100-120 hp from? I haven’t seen any mention of a TRD blower, ported and polished heads, or cams, or displacement increases. You’re going to need a lot more than a few bolt-ones to enter built LS-power territory.

 

[gnob]

Don't try to interject logic into his thread


Quote:
Where are you getting the extra 100-120 hp from? I haven’t seen any mention of a TRD blower, ported and polished heads, or cams, or displacement increases. You’re going to need a lot more than a few bolt-ones to enter built LS-power territory.

 

[Bama4door]

Where are you getting the extra 100-120 hp from? I haven’t seen any mention of a TRD blower, ported and polished heads, or cams, or displacement increases. You’re going to need a lot more than a few bolt-ones to enter built LS-power territory.

I was wondering that too. Even crank hp that seems high.

 

[Charles4x4]

Where are you getting the extra 100-120 hp from? I haven’t seen any mention of a TRD blower, ported and polished heads, or cams, or displacement increases. You’re going to need a lot more than a few bolt-ones to enter built LS-power territory.

Post Fixed. Was multi-taking - sorry. I have no idea what it actually is.

260 HP Stock + Afe Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, DT Headers, hi-Flow cats, Y-Pipe with Cat delete, and Exhaust.

 

[DarkHorse1HDT]

Any prospect of dyno time, just to put that argument completely to bed?