Builds Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[Charles4x4]

Did I miss it somewhere above... is there a particular reason you don't want to use the original doors on the truck? Planning to sell them and make a bit of extra cash over cheap salvage buy-ins?

Seems like a much simpler way to go than messing around with wreckers and freight, but if there's money in it I understand.

Correct - the complete Limited doors are worth a lot and salvage shells are fairly cheap.

I’ve considered keeping them to have the ability to add full doors with glass back on between races. But chances are that it may never return to a condition where these could be added back - which means selling them.

Think of the value of complete, flawless Limited doors (4), hood, liftgate, and front & rear bumpers - All together, it’s big $ and would go a long ways toward offsetting the cost of this build.

 

[Charles4x4]

We had a huge push this past weekend. Six friends came over to lend a hand. Everyone was exhausted by the end.

1) Exterior tear-down complete:

2) Interior tear-down complete (and rear seats temporarily reinstalled until the drive to CA):

3) Fiberwerx Fenders and Salvage Hood Installed:

4) Salvage Rear Lift Gate installed (we had to tweak it back into place due to a prior roll-over):

5) Fuel/Air Ratio Gauge Installed / Fuel Pressure Gauge ready to go, but haven't found a place to tap into the lines just yet as the adapter we purchased didn't fit:

6) Master Kill Switch Installed, but I still have to find a place for the Big Red Button:

7) URD MAF Calibrator Installed, but I haven't tuned it with the provided software yet:

8) Drivers Seat Installed on temporary brackets (hopefully we'll keep the slider somehow - it's nice to be able to adjust the seat). Passenger bracket was missing in the shipment, so it'll probably be here in a week.

9) Fuel skid removed, Fuel cell mount holes drilled and Artech mount installed. Still need fuel line adapters before I can actually mount it and I need to drop the stock tank.

10) Doug Thorley Headers and hi-flow Cats installed late last week (engine video on Instagram and Facebook):

I'm probably forgetting a few things as it was a blur of a weekend. It's nice to finally have the DD done so we could tear into it!

 

[Charles4x4]

Master Kill Switch mounted:

The Kill Switch has been a learning experience. The kit I have kills the battery, but the alternator keeps going.

Their description:
"Our Master Disconnect kit with Emergency Push Button is perfect for race applications as it allows you to install a large push button in easy reach if you need to shut down your vehicle's electrical system in a hurry. Kit comes complete with one 250 AMP solenoid, one Emergency Push Button, wire, mounting hardware and connectors."

Per Painless, I have to either run the kit I have now through a HD disconnect:
Master Disconnect Switch With Mounting PanelDetails | Painless Performance

Or run a second Alternator Kill Switch:
High Amp Alternator Shutdown RelayDetails | Painless Performance

The Alternator kill switch keeps everything in the engine bay and I won't have to run tons of Starter and + Batter cables into the cab, so I'm leaning that way.

 

[Pacer]

Great progress!

 

[Charles4x4]

Pic of the heart of the Master Kill Switch wired in the engine bay - the plastic red push button simply finalizes the circuit ground once it is pressed.

This is the Heavy Duty portion of the Painless system:

 

[OldRocDoc]

Sorry, but sitting here trying to visualize this rig at the plaque wall on Sledge Hammer, the waterfall on Wrecking Ball, the entry to Spooners, and, of course the little ledge on Back Door, does not present a super positive picture. I do hope you enjoy the build process.

 

[DarkHorse1HDT]

Sorry, but sitting here trying to visualize this rig at the plaque wall on Sledge Hammer, the waterfall on Wrecking Ball, the entry to Spooners, and, of course the little ledge on Back Door, does not present a super positive picture. I do hope you enjoy the build process.

Bit early to be writing it off just yet isn't it?

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

I highly reccomemd heat/shrink wrapping and maybe soldering all those connections. Those crappy plastic self crimping things do NOT hold up worth a s*** at race pace.

Can/will cause huge amounts of headaches one the side of the trail.

Keep at it

 

[Charles4x4]

I highly reccomemd heat/shrink wrapping and maybe soldering all those connections. Those crappy plastic self crimping things do NOT hold up worth a s*** at race pace.

Can/will cause huge amounts of headaches one the side of the trail.

Keep at it

Agreed!

 

[Charles4x4]

Sorry, but sitting here trying to visualize this rig at the plaque wall on Sledge Hammer, the waterfall on Wrecking Ball, the entry to Spooners, and, of course the little ledge on Back Door, does not present a super positive picture. I do hope you enjoy the build process.

I guess we’ll find out . And remember, 4600 gets quite a few bypasses.

 

[Charles4x4]

I need some advice on the Master Kill Switch. How are the KOH rigs with only a simple marine kill switch wiring everything to kill both the battery and alternator at once? If I disconnect the battery, the alternator keeps going.

I have this one installed now and it doesn't work:
Remote Disconnect w/Emergency ButtonDetails | Painless Performance
- It doesn't kill the alternator
- And it's now draining the battery even when not-engaged (despite Painless promising me it wouldn't)

I have this one in the box:
High Amp Alternator Shutdown RelayDetails | Painless Performance
- It'll claims it will kill the alternator, but I still have to solve the battery being drained, which means it won't work.

I found this one online:
4430 Master Battery Cut-Off Switch
Master Battery Cutoff Switch with Alternator Protection - Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
4430 Master Battery Cut-Off Switch Wiring Instructions | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Is the Pagusus Auto Racing switch the solution and I can send all the Painless stuff back? Or is there a simpler solution.
What is everyone else doing to kill both the battery and alternator without draining the battery?

 

[matzell]

Does that kill switch kill all power to the vehicle or just the starter so you can not start it? It should kill all power to the vehicle, it does not appear that this does that.

 

[matzell]

battery to kill switch
kill switch to rest of vehicle
problem solved

 

[Charles4x4]

Does that kill switch kill all power to the vehicle or just the starter so you can not start it? It should kill all power to the vehicle, it does not appear that this does that.

battery to kill switch
kill switch to rest of vehicle
problem solved

That's what I was hoping for...but it isn't working. As a test, I can start the 4runner, disconnect the battery completely, and it does nothing - the alternator just keeps going. So have to kill both the battery and alternator at once in order for it to actually shut down.

Or I'm just doing something wrong...

 

[Pacer]

Take the big wire off the back of the alt and loop it through the kill switch same way you are the battery.

 

[Charles4x4]

Take the big wire off the back of the alt and loop it through the kill switch same way you are the battery.

That was my guess as well. There is no issue with having both the Battery Power and Alternator Power coming off the same terminal/switch I assume?

I believe the starter power feeds from the main fuse box currently?

 

[matzell]

battery to kill switch
kill switch to rest of vehicle
problem solved

this again

 

[Charles4x4]

this again

I know! Right now the battery goes to the kill switch and BOTH the started and main fuse box (which theoretically should power most everything else) is on the other side.

I'm headed out to the garage to follow my alternator power and see where it is coming from... It must not be coming through the main fuse box...

 

[matzell]

Looking at your pic, I think you need a battery disconnect, not a kill switch. That way it is manual and shuts off battery power period.

 

[Charles4x4]

Looking at your pic, I think you need a battery disconnect, not a kill switch. That way it is manual and shuts off battery power period.

Suggestion from Pirate:
Bluesea 9002e:
e-Series Selector Battery Switch with AFD - Blue Sea Systems

Should work right?

Battery into Input 1, Alt into Input 2, Output goes back to Battery and Block. Done!