Hi everyone, Im new to this site but could really use some expert help with my 75 Fj. I drove it a few days ago and went to start it the other day and it will start while the key is in the start position and the starter is engaged. However when I release the key it stalls. I thought it was the ignition switch so I replaced it with a new one and it still does it. I figure its electrical because as long as the key is fully turned it runs but the starter is engaged and is will burn up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Starter engages but engine stalls when key is released (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Idaho
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1973Guppie
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sounds like your starter is simply turning your engine over as it should but the engine is not actually firing. Check that you are getting spark to the plugs and fuel to the engine.
You are getting voltage through the starter (Key in Start Position), but not through the regular ignition via the Ballast Resistor. You may have a broken wire, or a bad ballast resistor.
There is a black wire that comes off the starter solenoid and goes to the (+) side of the coil. This provides 12V when the starter is engaged.
There is another wire that comes from a metal box (Ballast Resistor). This should be "Hot" (+12 V) wne the ignition is in the ON / RUN position.
Put a meter on the coil (Black to Ground, Red to Coil (+)) and test my theory.
You can run a wire direct from +12V to the Coil (+) and if the ballast resistor/wiring is the problem - the engine will continue to run after you start it. Don't run it like this too long, or you may burn up the coil.
Regards -
Rocky
There is a black wire that comes off the starter solenoid and goes to the (+) side of the coil. This provides 12V when the starter is engaged.
There is another wire that comes from a metal box (Ballast Resistor). This should be "Hot" (+12 V) wne the ignition is in the ON / RUN position.
Put a meter on the coil (Black to Ground, Red to Coil (+)) and test my theory.
You can run a wire direct from +12V to the Coil (+) and if the ballast resistor/wiring is the problem - the engine will continue to run after you start it. Don't run it like this too long, or you may burn up the coil.
Regards -
Rocky
Wow.. See this is a great write up for troubleshooting! I wish there was a theory of operation section, where we could learn at our own convenience how stuff should work. Hmm..
Welcome to Mud Mike! You'll have to post some pics of that 40 here asap. Hope you can get that starting
issue resolved soon. Jeff
issue resolved soon. Jeff
I had the same problem and it was my ignition switch.
Check the "engine" fuse.
There is a fuse labeled "engine" located in the fuse box at the drivers kick panel. If this fuse is open, the symptom will be as you have described.
There is a fuse labeled "engine" located in the fuse box at the drivers kick panel. If this fuse is open, the symptom will be as you have described.
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I agree with rusty,
with the ignition (on)
if your are getting power going to the balllast ,but no power to the + terminal of the coil , you will need a ballast resistor which you can get one from your local napa.
If you are not getting power to either ,then look into connections form the ignition switch or the switch itself.
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Hi Rocky, Thanks for the info. I connected my test light clip to the block and got power at the - side of the Ballast resistor where the black wire attaches. However I didnt have power on the + side of the Ballast. So I took the ballast off and checked with the tester on the under side and the same thing. Power to the side where the black wire is connected to the - side of the coil but no power to the + side of the coil. Is that typical of a bad Ballast? Thanks for all the help also.
Mike
Mike
I'm a little confused, but it seems like you have a bad ballast resistor.
Take your ohm meter and measure across the ballast resistor - should be a very low resistance, but NOT infinity (open circuit).
As a temporary test, just run a jumper from the side of the ballast resistor that has power to the (+) side of the coil - the engine should run.
Not sure why you would have "Power to the side where the black wire is connected to the - side of the coil but no power to the + side of the coil". I thought the (-) side of the coil was grounded.....
Anyway - seems like you have a bad ballast resistor....
I've gone to the FJ-60 electronic distributor - so I don't have the same configuration to test...
Good Luck
Rocky
Take your ohm meter and measure across the ballast resistor - should be a very low resistance, but NOT infinity (open circuit).
As a temporary test, just run a jumper from the side of the ballast resistor that has power to the (+) side of the coil - the engine should run.
Not sure why you would have "Power to the side where the black wire is connected to the - side of the coil but no power to the + side of the coil". I thought the (-) side of the coil was grounded.....
Anyway - seems like you have a bad ballast resistor....
I've gone to the FJ-60 electronic distributor - so I don't have the same configuration to test...
Good Luck
Rocky
When my ballast resistor failed, I used a jumper across it to get home.
I replaced it with a sealed Chevy ballast resistor. I don't have the part number anymore but any decent parts guy should be able to help you find one.
I replaced it with a sealed Chevy ballast resistor. I don't have the part number anymore but any decent parts guy should be able to help you find one.
IDAHO (sorry had wrong guy), the ballast resistor couldn't be much simpler to diagnose and fix.
Pull it off and look at it. The resistor is just a short length of wire (kind of like the filament in a light bulb).
If it is broken, then it's bad. If it's not broken, it should work. However, it connects to screws on either end that can get corroded. Clean those up. For a quicky test, if it is bad, the car should run if you jumper across it.
Don't run for a long time like that though or you'll burn up your coil.
Pull it off and look at it. The resistor is just a short length of wire (kind of like the filament in a light bulb).
If it is broken, then it's bad. If it's not broken, it should work. However, it connects to screws on either end that can get corroded. Clean those up. For a quicky test, if it is bad, the car should run if you jumper across it.
Don't run for a long time like that though or you'll burn up your coil.
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I would have guess that it was the ignition switch, I'll know what else to check if I run into the same problem. Thanks for all the input.
My ignition switch does the same thing. If I turn it back just a hair past where it wants to spring back to, it'll run fine. I just call it part of my theft deterrent system. 
Great Mike! There sure is a wealth of knowledge and kind/helpful folks here on Mud. Now post up some Pics of that rig for us! Jeff
Reviving this old thread having this exact same problem, ruled it out that infact it was a bad ballast resistor by jumping the factory ballast (by pass) and she started BUT only about 5 sec. the napa ballast is glowing hot red! it is a 1.5 ohm.
Do i have a bad coil? maybe igniter?
1975 FJ40
Do i have a bad coil? maybe igniter?
1975 FJ40
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Can you give us a better description of what your problem is and what you’ve done to diagnose? Also is your ignition stock or has it been upgraded? Some pics of how it’s wired/jumped would help. You probably should have just started a new thread.
