starter...dead?? (1 Viewer)

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Today when i tried to start the cruiser, all i could hear is a click noise. I thought it might be the battery but i checked and it is the starter. Where do i get a new one for my 64 ? what options do i have??



thanks
Blake McClaskey
 
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starters dead.
tell you what, i had mine rebuilt for $90, and it died again 3 months later only to have the shop tell me "oh we only give you a 30 day guarantee".
then i went to autozone, and it was like $80 for limited lifetime guarantee...... should have went there first.
i bet other national parts stores have similar prices/guarantees.
 
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If you have already removed it you can have it bench tested at most auto parts to make sure it's still functional. I like to think you can use the high torque starters that came out much later. like in the 80's.fj40s and fj60s used them. They use less amperage to turn the engine which at the end extend the life's battery. I also recommend adding an extra ground from the starter to the chassis. Without the ground, you will sometimes not get proper ground causing it click while trying to start the engine.
 
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I'd also recommend checking your earth (ground) lead, both ends from battery to chassis, chassis to engine, starter to engine, then also the pos lead from battery to starter. A bad connection at any point will cause the starter to click. After spending $150 on overhauling my starter to find it still didn't work, I went through the leads & fixed the problem with a wire brush & 10mm socket in about 10min...
 
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Ditto on muddy12's sound advice!

Check yer ground(s) mate!

Weak batt will cause the same symptoms.

Should be one to your starter, one to your frame and one to your body.

Rule those out and then check your starter IAW the FSM.
 
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I've got a problem with my starter/battery as well. It will turn the motor without the spark plugs, but as soon as I put the spark plugs in, there's too much compression and the starter struggles and makes clicking noises.

I'm hoping it's just a flat battery.
 
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If would agree. The best bet is make sure you have good contacts on both of the battery cable(+ or - or both) as mentioned above. dirty contacts or corrision at the end could be the culprit. Another way to get around is use booster cables and make a connection from the battery to the starter.

If it still fails load test the battery, may have a short cell or its old and needs replacing.

Ultima RB said:
I've got a problem with my starter/battery as well. It will turn the motor without the spark plugs, but as soon as I put the spark plugs in, there's too much compression and the starter struggles and makes clicking noises.

I'm hoping it's just a flat battery.
 
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I've swapped solenoids on some starters to get a decent one...


IMO-ditch it for one off any later 2F with the gear reduction starter. (look for 60's in junkyards-$10)

I have two I pulled from the local picknpull, the gear reduction units are SO much faster, they also draw less amperage. Toyota has substituted these for all their F-2F starter part #'s.
 

65swb45

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wesintl said:
Toyota has substituted just about everything on a 64 fj40 ;p
Fixed it for ya!

McClaskey, if you still have the original 64 starter in there, you will notice that it is VERY DIFFERENT to all the other starters you're gonna see out there, standard and gear reduction.

Somehow I get the feeling that you're not gonna be one of those guys that goes down the resto road, so I concurr with the others that you should scrape up the $$ for a gear reduction starter and modify the wiring [mostly just extending the existing wires and changing the solenoid lead] Good long term investment.

Don't ditch the early starter just in case you change your mind about the resto later.
 
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Woohoo, my problem turned out to be a bad earth connection from starter to chassis. Thanks to this thread I checked my connections before buying a new starter. All is good!
 

MrMoMo

That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
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In general, the clicking noise is caused by low voltage. You get a large voltage drop through a bad connection (high resistance = drop in voltage) this results in a full voltage reading at your battery, but not full voltage at the starter. This is usually caused by under sized wires, or poor connections.

Sounds like you figured that out though!
 
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well it was fine when i tried tried to turn her over like a month ago...
 
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McClaskey said:
well it was fine when i tried tried to turn her over like a month ago...
Rust (and corrosion in general) never sleeps.

I've had similar problems, and you cannot assume the starter is dead without clearing up the electrical issues, first. Do the cheap and easy fixes, first, and do them right. I'm as guilty as any of doing the "parts swap boogy" in an attempt to fix the problem without doing the diagnosis work. That's the expensive way to go, though.

Check ground to the engine, ground to the starter (if you have one), and power to the starter - clean all contact points to bright metal, tighten all fasteners, clean the battery terminals with Coca Cola, check the cables for continuity, and then, if the starter won't go, take it out and have it bench tested.

Only then, replace/rebuild the starter.

Ninety percent of all electrical problems on an FJ40 will prove to be a grounding problem. The other 10% are the fault of the PO ;)

Kirk
 

tucker74

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When you do decide to replace it - gear reduction is totally the way to go ... one of the best things I've done on my '76. It'll pull you out of some hairy situations when the engine dies as well ;)

Tucker
 
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fjwagon said:
If would agree. The best bet is make sure you have good contacts on both of the battery cable(+ or - or both) as mentioned above. dirty contacts or corrision at the end could be the culprit. Another way to get around is use booster cables and make a connection from the battery to the starter.

If it still fails load test the battery, may have a short cell or its old and needs replacing.
Yep. It's never the starter. Well, almost never.

Sorry I got here late.
 
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Another thing: Corrosion can wreck a battery cable anywhere along it's length Water will actually work it's way inside the insulation. Cable looks normal but might have conductors that are white dust. Check each wire for continuity with an ommeter, but don't assume it's good just because it gets through. A partially destroyed conductor won't flow the current needed for starting. Get to know someone with a good tester like a Sun VAT-40. It'll find problems before you ever have a failure.
 

65swb45

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largenfirm said:
Rust (and corrosion in general) never sleeps.



Ninety percent of all electrical problems on an FJ40 will prove to be a grounding problem. The other 10% are the fault of the PO ;)

Kirk
Ain't that the truth. If the cables look anything less than new, do yourself a big favor in the long run and just get some new ones NOW.

I remember back in grad school finding a note from a classmate asking for help with his car that wouldn't start. He thought it was either a bad battery or a bad starter. He watched kind of slack-jawed as I took out my pocket knife and cleaned both ends of his battery cable :idea: and VOILA, the car started right up.

Did I mention that this guy was a former State Senator?:doh:
 

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