Stainless vs Galvanized Fuel Line? (1 Viewer)

[FishNinJay]

Is galvanized zinc brake line safe to use with gas?

I think so, but just checking. I was going to order 3/8 stainless steel, but apparently I can not double-flare or bubble flare the ends. Also, the galvanized zinc is cheaper

There's this stuff too.. which is even a little less. But I'm not sure what it is...
"PVF-coated low-carbon steel double-wall brake line"

 

[Splangy]

Is it galvanized or zinc plated?

Is galvanized zinc brake line safe to use with gas?

I think so, but just checking. I was going to order 3/8 stainless steel, but apparently I can not double-flare or bubble flare the ends. Also, the galvanized zinc is cheaper

There's this stuff too.. which is even a little less. But I'm not sure what it is...
"PVF-coated low-carbon steel double-wall brake line"

 

[FishNinJay]

Is it galvanized or zinc plated?

I think galvanized zinc.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63036/10002/-1
Here's something similar I found, so since they are calling it "Fuel" line, I assume it must be ok?

 

[GarageRat]

The stainless not being flareable is a myth if it's the proper alloy, stainless brake line will flare fine. Aluminum is also fine for fuel lines.

You can use the galvanized or epoxy coated stuff no problem, the inside of the tubing shouldn't be coated in my experience which would be your only possible issue. For my steel fuel lines I go to the local vato-zone and get 3/8" Epoxy coated "brake line" (I can not think of a single application needing that big of a brake line except for possibly some type of giant truck) in a 6' length. For a 40 that is more than sufficient.

 

[dcamp]

I went with 5/16" stainless for my fuel lines and it worked fine. Practice your flares and bends on some scrap, it's worth the time to get familiar with the tool. Bought 25' worth of tubing on begger bay for a song and dance. You can get the tool locally, I found mine on craigslist for cheap. For the few extra dollars SST will be worth it as it will last forever, no question.

 

[FishNinJay]

Aluminum is also fine for fuel lines.

You can use the galvanized or epoxy coated stuff no problem, the inside of the tubing shouldn't be coated in my experience which would be your only possible issue. For my steel fuel lines I go to the local vato-zone and get 3/8" Epoxy coated "brake line" (I can not think of a single application needing that big of a brake line except for possibly some type of giant truck) in a 6' length. For a 40 that is more than sufficient.

I wonder if that "PVF-coated" is what you are calling "Epoxy" I saw a 25' roll at Autozone. The aluminum line sounds like it would be very easy to use? I would assume bending, cutting, and flaring (double flare, bubble flare, etc) should be easy? Any disadvantages to aluminum? In one area, I'll be running the line pretty close to my exhaust, and this is non-pressurized carburetor system.

I went with 5/16" stainless for my fuel lines and it worked fine. Practice your flares and bends on some scrap, it's worth the time to get familiar with the tool. Bought 25' worth of tubing on begger bay for a song and dance. You can get the tool locally, I found mine on craigslist for cheap. For the few extra dollars SST will be worth it as it will last forever, no question.

Hmmm... SST sounds (and looks) nice. Eventually, my fuel lines would be the nicest things on my rig!

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I went with 5/16" stainless for my fuel lines and it worked fine. Practice your flares and bends on some scrap, it's worth the time to get familiar with the tool. Bought 25' worth of tubing on begger bay for a song and dance. You can get the tool locally, I found mine on craigslist for cheap. For the few extra dollars SST will be worth it as it will last forever, no question.

This x2! With the right tools and materials SS is not much harder to work with than plain steel. My brother did all the brake lines on the F250 tow rig with a Imperial Eastman hand double flaring tool before we bought the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool (which will do all kinds of different tube ends). He also replaced all the fuel lines on his BMW 535i with SS. We use coils of SS tube from Summit along with the tube nuts they sell. I highly recommend it over plain steel if you live anywhere near salted roads.

Nick

 

[GarageRat]

I wonder if that "PVF-coated" is what you are calling "Epoxy" I saw a 25' roll at Autozone. The aluminum line sounds like it would be very easy to use? I would assume bending, cutting, and flaring (double flare, bubble flare, etc) should be easy? Any disadvantages to aluminum? In one area, I'll be running the line pretty close to my exhaust, and this is non-pressurized carburetor system.

I'd reasonably assume the two coatings are one and the same, I've always just called it an epoxy coating. If you are running a V8 then the 3/8" tube nuts supplied with the lengths have a good chance of fitting the outlet side of the mechanical fuel pump if you still run it, my Pontiacs have worked like this.

The aluminum tubing is extremely easy to work with, it bends and flares easier than steel as far as actual manual pressure required and cuts fine with a tubing cutter (can gall up on saw blades and with files however). For the area by the exhaust, regardless of material, I would use a heat resistant sleeve on the tubing to help insulate it. For mine, I run the lines in the frame rail to protect them as much as possible however it's a good idea to spray out the channel every now and then to avoid rusting the line out. For a carbureated system aluminum works fine. We're using it for both the fuel and alcohol/water lines on a quadruple digit horsepower '70 Chevelle we're building.

One warning though, NEVER use aluminum tubing for brake lines as it does not under ANY circumstances have the burst strength for an automotive brake system. It is good for lower pressure liquid delivery only.

 

[FishNinJay]

The aluminum tubing is extremely easy to work with, it bends and flares easier than steel as far as actual manual pressure required and cuts fine with a tubing cutter (can gall up on saw blades and with files however). For the area by the exhaust, regardless of material, I would use a heat resistant sleeve on the tubing to help insulate it. For mine, I run the lines in the frame rail to protect them as much as possible however it's a good idea to spray out the channel every now and then to avoid rusting the line out. For a carbureated system aluminum works fine. We're using it for both the fuel and alcohol/water lines on a quadruple digit horsepower '70 Chevelle we're building.

One warning though, NEVER use aluminum tubing for brake lines as it does not under ANY circumstances have the burst strength for an automotive brake system. It is good for lower pressure liquid delivery only.

I'm leaning towards this aluminum line..

I handled a coil of the epoxy line, and that is some really hard and heavy tubing. I think the aluminum will just be so much easier for me to handle, cut, bend, and flare. I can practice, and later swap it out for steel if I run into a problem. I'm in sunny Orange County, where the only salt I'd see might be near the beach. I'm not doing too much heavy off-roading, so the stray pebble kicking up and dinging my aluminum line should be pretty unlikely. I'm under the rig just tinkering or checking things out at least once a month anyways, so I can visually keep an eye on the line.

My plan:
3/8 aluminum line with 3/8 Goodyear rubber at transitions. Secure line to the frame rails with rubber cushion clamps.

THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE!