Did you notice any decrease in cabin noise with the front row acoustic glass?
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (7 Viewers)
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Did you notice any decrease in cabin noise with the front row acoustic glass?
For context. I already had installed dynamat in the doors and inside on the rear floor and wheel wells. All in all the improvement of the laminated side windows front (rear is tempered on the LX as well) is marginal but all small steps help and let’s say I got that knack out of my system.
What I actually most like from this mod is closing the doors. Sounds like a 80 ties merc S class. Attribute that mostly to the dynamat though. Does put a smile on my face every time
PS forgot to mention those side windows were like $190 a piece, which compared to OEM at around $400 a piece is reasonable in my mind. Was a gift to myself for X mas in Dec 2023 and enjoyed installing them during the holidays. Was about an hour per door taking it easy.
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Does anyone make a set of sliders or protectors for a 8-15 lx that doesn’t require taking off the foot rails? You’d think they could figure out something with the ahc protector bolt holes just to keep the foot rails safe for minor off-roading.
No, definitely not. Honestly, the stock running board hang low enough that putting anything below them would really limit your clearance a lot for any kind of intermediate off-roading. If you're looking for stock running board functionality with added protection, the slee step sliders are probably your best bet. You'd have to ditch the lexus running boards and either cut your rocker plastic or install LC rocker plastic.
Yeah, might as well just install skis if you wanted to try to get something under the OEM steps.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
I will pitch the dissent sliders as a second option here.
They look like running boards but are sliders.
Dissent doesn't fit on a Lexus, unfortunately. Not many LC sliders do.
I may have missed it or misunderstood, but I'm doing a trans fluid flush on my 2016 soon.
After I enter the trans temp mode on the dash with (D) illuminated to know I'm in the correct temp range, once I bleed the overflow and ensure my level is correct, how do I get out of trans temp mode..
Meaning I'll be in park, but it will indicate drive.
If I turn it off once done, is that what clears the trans temp mode? It should show park next time I start the motor?
Hopefully my question makes sense..
After I enter the trans temp mode on the dash with (D) illuminated to know I'm in the correct temp range, once I bleed the overflow and ensure my level is correct, how do I get out of trans temp mode..
Meaning I'll be in park, but it will indicate drive.
If I turn it off once done, is that what clears the trans temp mode? It should show park next time I start the motor?
Hopefully my question makes sense..
Yep, as soon as you shut off the vehicle it goes back into the correct operating mode (assuming you removed the jumper in the OBD port)
gray rider
SILVER Star
Do the LX 570 and the LC 200 series essentially have the same engine?
Yes, they share the 3UR-FE with the 2007-2021 Tundra and 2008-2022 Sequoia.
People like to say the engines built in Japan are built better, but I really don't think that's the case. There are examples of cam tower seepage on all the platforms as well as timing chain rattle. Both of my LX's cam towers are wet, but my Tundra's are bone dry.
There is plenty of evidence here in the towing thread alone that the 200s run hotter than the Tundra/Sequoia. I don't seem to see as many coolant valley leaks on Tundras/Sequoias, either. A local Cruiserhead mechanic who works on some of my friends 100s and 200s says that I will 100% have to deal with the coolant valley leak. He says every 200 series he has worked on has had it around the 200k-mile mark. I'm at 194k now.
All that to say, I wouldn't worry about putting a non-flex fuel 3UR from a Tundra/Sequoia into a 200.
gray rider
SILVER Star
Roger that. Good info. I have already repaired the coolant valley leak. On to new challenges,
Would you mind sharing the model years of your LX and Tundra 3UR-FE’s?
It's in my sig posted above.
and now below
edited to add: Plenty of people have the cam tower weeping at mileages well below the 73k I currently have on my Tundra.
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Looks odd to me claiming there is no difference in Japan vs US build by comparing an early model year 3UR-FE made in Japan vs a late model year made in the US with only 73k miles on it...
Cam towers and timing chain rattle are not specific to MIJ or MIA engines. I’m not even saying my Tundra won’t start weeping. But who knows? Many of these motors weep at mileages lower than 73k. This LX has had wet cam towers since I bought it at 149k miles.
The guy I responded to asked because his 200 needs a new engine. I would not be snobby about the donor vehicle my new-to-me 3UR came in; just make sure it’s not a flex fuel…
Ok, understood, thanks for explaining!
I would also think later model year engines build in the US have manufacturing improvements included and are a (very) good option for a replacement. I would expect any improvement identified and actioned to be implemented on both sides.
Then it only boils down to the workers attitude towards quality and consistency. This makes Japan made products attractive yet clearly not a must have.
If you are DIY'ing, sure, grab one from a Tundra or Sequoia and go for it.
But from reports on this forum, the professional mechanic shops are not doing this. LC or LX donors only.
bloc
SILVER Star
Entirely possible that's for warranty reasons, not necessarily that it can't work.
With my understanding of the engines and ability to do this myself, I'd absolutely be interested in a low-mileage 3UR from a tundra/sequoia with good history if I needed an engine.
Sure, maybe it can work? But if it was so straightforward to install a tundra/sequoia motor then why wouldn’t a junkyard warranty one installed into a 200? And why wouldn’t a shop warranty the labor installing it?
Good for you and those who can DIY - though I suspect you'd still have to accept no warranty on the tundra/sequoia motor?
For the remaining majority, they will be stuck sourcing expensive LC/LX motors only with good warranties which from reports here run $7k - $10k. Throw labor costs on top, and additional/continuing depreciation on the vehicle, and you have a major problem.
