SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)

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I'm trying to come up with a semi-accurate estimate for tire revolutions/distance traveled with a stock 200 vs. one with 35" tires and 4.88 gears. The primary purpose is for a correction factor for calculating mpg. i.e. with my old 80 on 315's and stock gears, all I had to do was add 10% to the miles traveled per tank to get an estimated MPG, because the only difference was the tire size. Since I have 4.88 gears, it's not going to be that simple.

I'd love to look at the number on the dash display and be able to do a simple "it's actually 8% higher than that" or "it's actually 15% lower than that" calculation, which I can do in my head on the fly. (yes, I know the dash display isn't necessarily spot on either). I just don't know how to get there.

I've played around with the grim jeeper gear ratio calculator, and not been able to figure it out. I think the math is beyond me. Does anyone know how to calculate this, or have a quick answer?

Using tire diameter delta may work for mph but I read somewhere in this forum that mpg isn’t always linear, due to engine efficiency at various rpm’s.
 
Using tire diameter delta may work for mph but I read somewhere in this forum that mpg isn’t always linear, due to engine efficiency at various rpm’s.

The car takes car of measuring consumption, just have to correct for how far it has actually traveled. A single GPS speed snapshot doesn't tell that story.
 
Yep, most likely the issue.

A light oil is better in this application than silicon.. 3-in-1 works well and I’m sure we could find others specifically suited to sintered bronze bushings, which these most likely are.

But yes ultimately it’s the fan motor wearing.
Okay. Thanks for the input, Bloc and @Nothinghead !
 
Things to check besides Coolent level and air filter?

When idling my temp guage climbs up to the red, it’s 34 degrees outside.
Mud in front of the radiator. If it's cool while you're driving, and climbs when sitting still, could be that the fans can't pull enough air through the mud, but at speed air is forced through just fine.
 
Okay. Thanks for the input, Bloc and @Nothinghead !
Just now reading your signature.. this is your 2021? I'd be shocked if the fan clutch were bad already if so.

Have you been messing around in the mud in it?
 
Just now reading your signature.. this is your 2021? I'd be shocked if the fan clutch were bad already if so.

Have you been messing around in the mud in it?
Yes. My 2021. But I do have 80k miles on it already. If that matters.

And no, I don’t do much driving in mud.
Plenty of dust in west Texas, Utah and New Mexico, but not much mud.

Does that change your thinking any?
 
to calculate your speed from a tire change is pretty simple....

(New Tire Diameter / OEM Tire Diameter) * Speed

for my 08 = (295/70R18 / 285/60R18) = 31.46/34.26 = .91827
if my Speedometer shows 35 mph..... .91827 * 60 = 38.1 actual MPH
if my Speedometer shows 55 mph..... .91827 * 60 = 59.9 actual MPH
if my Speedometer shows 70 mph..... .91827 * 60 = 76.2 actual MPH

you can also use this same ration to calculate your miles driven
if my Trip ODO shows 200 miles..... .91827 * 200 = 217.8 miles actual driven

if it take 20 gallons to fill up my MPG is 10.89 vs what the computer says at 10 mpg
 
Yes. My 2021. But I do have 80k miles on it already. If that matters.

And no, I don’t do much driving in mud.
Plenty of dust in west Texas, Utah and New Mexico, but not much mud.

Does that change your thinking any?

A mechanical issue at less than 100k, whether fan clutch or coolant loss, would be very surprising to me. Possibly fine dust, but a garden hose should sort that out quickly.

My issue with a clogged radiator is usually they overheat worse while driving. Yes there is more ambient airflow but that typically can’t do a better job than the fan of forcing air through.. that’s why the fan clutch becomes active at higher loads anyway. Meanwhile the thermal energy added to the system while driving is dramatically higher than at idle.

I’d say go back to basics. Make sure cooling system is full, not just the reservoir. Inspect fan clutch for fluid leaks at the body seam and input shaft seal. Inspect serp belt for damage and proper tension. Consider hosing out the condenser and radiator. Monitor actual temps via techstream or one of the OBD apps.
 
A mechanical issue at less than 100k, whether fan clutch or coolant loss, would be very surprising to me. Possibly fine dust, but a garden hose should sort that out quickly.

My issue with a clogged radiator is usually they overheat worse while driving. Yes there is more ambient airflow but that typically can’t do a better job than the fan of forcing air through.. that’s why the fan clutch becomes active at higher loads anyway. Meanwhile the thermal energy added to the system while driving is dramatically higher than at idle.

I’d say go back to basics. Make sure cooling system is full, not just the reservoir. Inspect fan clutch for fluid leaks at the body seam and input shaft seal. Inspect serp belt for damage and proper tension. Consider hosing out the condenser and radiator. Monitor actual temps via techstream or one of the OBD apps.
Bloc,
Could you be conflating my stupid question with Krise118’s over-heating issue?

My issue is a chirp or squeak from my heater when below freezing while the heater warms up. Nothing big… I just worry it develops into something larger and was wondering if I should head it off now.

But if there’s something you think I could solve by spraying it with a hose… I would be interested!
 
Bloc,
Could you be conflating my stupid question with Krise118’s over-heating issue?
I apologize, that's exactly what I did.

If you've been good about the cabin filter it's probably not a dust issue. Yeah I'd remove the cabin filter and inspect in the area with a mirror, maybe consider removing the blower motor for further inspection. If you don't find anything external then for me it would be time to try oiling the bushings.
 
for my 08 = (295/70R18 / 285/60R18) = 31.46/34.26 = .91827
if my Speedometer shows 35 mph..... .91827 * 60 = 38.1 actual MPH
or just 35 x 34.26 / 31.46 = 38.1 mph
 
Does the rake on my LX look more than it should. This is after setting it to Low and then returning to Normal.
IMG_6764.jpeg
 
Does the rake on my LX look more than it should. This is after setting it to Low and then returning to Normal.
View attachment 3792952

Nawh, looks exactly like it should. The fender clearances are misleading as they are cut different front to back. I prefer to look at the running boards and where they line up to the hubs of the front to rear tires.

That said, it's easy to level AHC to however you want. Since it's self leveling, LXs don't have to worry about a saggy butt look with load.
 
Nawh, looks exactly like it should. The fender clearances are misleading as they are cut different front to back. I prefer to look at the running boards and where they line up to the hubs of the front to rear tires.

That said, it's easy to level AHC to however you want. Since it's self leveling, LXs don't have to worry about a saggy butt look with load.
That was the problem. I was messing with the 0 point in Techstream and, while I set the offsets back to what they were before, I was becoming insanely paranoid that it was not sitting right
 
That was the problem. I was messing with the 0 point in Techstream and, while I set the offsets back to what they were before, I was becoming insanely paranoid that it was not sitting right
Does this rake make me look fat?

Kidding. I, like teckis300, think it looks fine.
Though I might be a bit of an outlier. I like a bit of a rake on a vehicle.
 
My aux LRA 40 gallon tank sending unit will not read empty, it reads 1/4 when empty.

Is there a way to possibly fix this without dropping the tank?

It does read Full, 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4, just not empty.

Problem is the pump will not auto shut off when it actually goes empty as the sending unit reads 1/4.

Unfortunately no wash board roads near me either.
I tried bonking it with a rubber mallet but no joy.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
The sender would need to be removed from the tank in order to be able to bend the float arm to adjust it. If you cannot access the sender with the tank in place, the tank has to come out.
 
To anyone who’s replaced a steering rack. Tips tricks? Nothing solid I found except a video of a rhd diesel having it swapped out. Not that helpful. I found one thread where removing the oil filter housing was mentioned.
IMG_7730.jpeg
 
To anyone who’s replaced a steering rack. Tips tricks? Nothing solid I found except a video of a rhd diesel having it swapped out. Not that helpful. I found one thread where removing the oil filter housing was mentioned.
View attachment 3793285
Tundras are very similar so researching those will probably bring you a lot more info.

I do remember one or two posts on mud about people changing racks in 200s though, so at least a little info is out there.
 
Tundras are very similar so researching those will probably bring you a lot more info.

I do remember one or two posts on mud about people changing racks in 200s though, so at least a little info is out there.
Thanks! I’ll see what I can find
 

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