Do you not want to "add a fuse" it to the pax footwell fuse panel? That's an option if you haven't already considered it. Most dashcams also will auto shutoff at a set voltage to hopefully prevent any dead batteries.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (20 Viewers)
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I currently have a dashcam hardwired. I want to add a battery because my truck is street parked for days at a time and the parking mode doesn't last long enough. I've had bumper scrapes from parking and I'd like to have some monitoring for it.
That sucks. Group 31 battery FTW! jk.
I haven't had luck with *gracefully* getting the front seat lower trim removed. It's possible, just be ready for asking the inevitable follow up question in @bloc part number request thread...
Curious, what brand group 31 battery have you used? How is the fitment?
Does the red in the OEM antifreeze affect using test strips to check the pH and glycol levels? What do people use?
teejnut
SILVER Star
I'm running the Deka Group 31 from Lowes using Slee's mount. Works great!
There are probably multiple places behind that dash to fit something that size. I suspect the best option is on top of the black panel that is under the glove box on the passenger side. It comes off easily with a built in clips and something could be velcro'd to it with little fanfare. Also, could just shove it in the glove box and run the wire up to the center dash speaker.
I've had my front set trims completely apart. I don't think there is a ton of room, not enough for the dimensions you stated. I suspect you could mount it under the seat or under the carpet under the seat on the passenger side. I know there are some electronics there already, but i don't think all the space is used.
Not sure what brand dash camera you have, but they sell power packs that charge when the car is on and then power the camera for at least a few days...if you're talking weeks on end, then yeah maybe something else...but you may have something compatible with your camera already for this. My blackvue does....I think its called power magic ultra
Yeah, my original plan was to stick it under the seat, but I didn't see a lot of room. I can unbolt the seat and see if there is more room that I couldn't see before. The battery is kind of heavy, so I don't know if I would trust it on top of the black panel. But maybe I can move my Grom to that location and fit the battery on the side of the center console where I stuck the grom.
I have a Thinkware camera and I have the Thinkware battery pack. Just need to find a good place to hide the battery.
You can unbolt the seat and just rock it back, there are a few plugs to unplug, but you can probably get it back far enough without touching them. One is a SRS plug so take whatever precautions you prefer for that as far as disconnecting the battery. There is a cut in the carpet and space underneath that.
Can also just bend the OEM battery strap and redrill a hole new hole to fit a group 31.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
How difficult is it to replace the brake lines? I've searched and I cannot find any directions on the forum or on youtube. I can't imagine it's difficult but the prices I was quoted have directed me to do it myself. I'm just trying to learn if there are any "gotchas".
Are you referring to the flexible lines going to the wheels, or the hard lines going to the master cylinder? Why does any of it need replacement?
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Yes. Flexible. Body lift in the future.
LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Prior to owning this LC and gaining confidence from reading this forum I had never even so much as changed my own oil on any of my previous cars. I waa able to swap out the brake hoses on the LC for the SDHQ braided hoses with minimal difficulty. The rear inner hoses are definitely the most difficult and I had a bloody knuckle or two but nothing that should prevent one from doing this job yourself. I don't remember any particular gotchas other than the rear inboard ones being the most difficult due to access. Put speed bleeder bleed valves in at the same time and the post swap brake bleed will be even easier.
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My 2018 LX jerks/jumps at 80+ mph on highway inclines; with ~1200+lb load (people and luggage). It acts as if it needs more horsepower and downshift a gear, keep up speed and then shift up again. I typically cruise at 80 or 85 mph and this is almost certainly to happen on all inclines; it rides smoothly otherwise.
This also happens before and after DIY transmission fluid flush.
So is that normal?
This also happens before and after DIY transmission fluid flush.
So is that normal?
Not normal.
Could be any number of things. Possibly air intake, intake filter, MAF, fuel pump, fuel, spark plugs. Simplest things first but are you getting any CEL or codes? What fuel octane are you using?
Just changed engine air filter and spark plugs and using premium gas (91#?). No code, acceleration is good in general.
Do you have an OBD-II reader? There's some diagnostic things you can watch like A/F and Knock Correction Learning Value (KCLV). Might give you more insight as to what to look for next meaning is it air, fuel, or ignition?
