SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)

[FrazzledHunter]

Thank you!

Pretty ironic they likely removed the superior battery from @FrazzledHunter truck just to check a box. Not that Truestart is bad.. but it isn’t Panasonic.

I would not be surprised if some savvy individual took the original Panasonic battery.
Why other than to have a better battery somewhere else would they do this?
It's my understanding that you can't get a Panasonic battery.

Still wondering about the cooking/popping sounds when I was charging.

 

[bloc]

I would not be surprised if some savvy individual took the original Panasonic battery.
Why other than to have a better battery somewhere else would they do this?
It's my understanding that you can't get a Panasonic battery.

Still wondering about the cooking/popping sounds when I was charging.

You might be surprised. Even service personnel can be really ignorant about things like battery brands they haven’t seen much of. It probably just needed a “new” battery to be sold the way it was, and if I were guessing the Panny just ended up on the recycle pallet.

Sorry I can’t help much with the odd sounds.. @TeCKis300 or others more well-read on battery stuff will need to jump in.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

You might be surprised. Even service personnel can be really ignorant about things like battery brands they haven’t seen much of. It probably just needed a “new” battery to be sold the way it was, and if I were guessing the Panny just ended up on the recycle pallet.

Sorry I can’t help much with the odd sounds.. @TeCKis300 or others more well-read on battery stuff will need to jump in.

Well I really appreciate your insights so far. Thanks!

 

[TeCKis300]

I would not be surprised if some savvy individual took the original Panasonic battery.
Why other than to have a better battery somewhere else would they do this?
It's my understanding that you can't get a Panasonic battery.

Still wondering about the cooking/popping sounds when I was charging.

The battery is shorted internally - replace.

Due to a short, some cells may be seeing higher voltage causing abnormal boiling. If you're careful with eye protection, you can open the caps while charging and likely see some differences with some boiling and others not. There's enough symptoms though that's it's not worth exploring and just replace.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

The battery is shorted internally - replace.

Due to a short, some cells may be seeing higher voltage causing abnormal boiling. If you're careful with eye protection, you can open the caps while charging and likely see some differences with some boiling and others not. There's enough symptoms though that's it's not worth exploring and just replace.

Not the answer I was hoping for. I'll take a careful look at the cells. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[gasman4u]

Not the answer I was hoping for. I'll take a careful look at the cells. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

You may just want to replace. If it has bad cells, it's likely gone.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

You may just want to replace. If it has bad cells, it's likely gone.

That seems to be the consensus. I've had the truck since 11/2019 and battery says 84 month warranty on it. I'll take it to the local dealer to see if they'll test it. Perhaps if they test it either for free or for a small sum and it tests bad then MAYBE I can get it replaced on warranty.

 

[airforce1]

I am getting rotor pulsing during hard braking....rotor and brakes were replaced just a couple of thousand miles ago. I don't carry a trailer. Brake pads look good at around 7mm both sides. I did notice the brake spring clips missing....I do know they reduce noise but did they also function to reduce pulsing or shudder?

 

[El Skywalker]

I am getting rotor pulsing during hard braking....rotor and brakes were replaced just a couple of thousand miles ago. I don't carry a trailer. Brake pads look good at around 7mm both sides. I did notice the brake spring clips missing....I do know they reduce noise but did they also function to reduce pulsing or shudder?

Check your calipers.
Sounds like one may be sticking.
I would throw the clips back in too to make sure the pads are seated properly.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

The battery is shorted internally - replace.

Due to a short, some cells may be seeing higher voltage causing abnormal boiling. If you're careful with eye protection, you can open the caps while charging and likely see some differences with some boiling and others not. There's enough symptoms though that's it's not worth exploring and just replace.

You may just want to replace. If it has bad cells, it's likely gone.

So I thought I'd follow up as there may be a tidbit of helpful info. here.
My TruStart battery took a dump Labor Day weekend for seemingly no reason and it left the truck in a very weird state once I jump-started it. Putting the battery on a charger once home resulted in hissing and popping from the battery. The ih8mud consensus is that the battery is bad.

I contacted 2 dealers and asked about getting my TruStart battery tested.
The question to both was what's involved in testing a battery that is apparently under warranty.

• Koons Annapolis Toyota - I bought the LC here 11/2019
  • Phone answered immediately and after a brief hold while the service writer made an inquiry, said checking the battery would be complimentary. If I wanted to do further electrical system checks that would be a diagnostic fee of $160.00. As for warranty they said they'd check into it after the battery check. There were no questions as to whether the battery was the original. They had my name and all my records so I assume they had all my info.
• Heritage Toyota Catonsville
  • Called several times and was told to leave message. Drove to them as they're just up the road from us. They explained that since the battery was the one purchased with the vehicle the battery warranty goes with the 3 year original vehicle warranty. The 84 month warranty on the battery applies only if you buy the battery. A battery check would be a diagnostic charge of $190.00. There was no statement as to whether the diagnostic was just the battery or something more extensive like an accompanying electrical check.

I learned a bit about battery warranties. Hopefully the info. I got was true.
I definitely do not want to be left with disabling diagnostics after a dead battery so I'll replace I guess.
If it happens again, well, then that's another matter.
Thanks much to all for the help.

 

[KLF]

AutoZone will do a battery check for free.

Meanwhile I bought a battery tester from Amazon a few months ago (Topdon BT200) and it was completely unreliable and inconsistent, so I sent it back.

 

[linuxgod]

Not sure. I haven’t removed it yet. I’m not sure how thick the tire is but unless it’s a 1/2” or maybe 3/4” screw I’m betting it did.

Replying to myself for posterity as well as notes for future lucky souls.

1. The Falken Wildpeak RT 01 tires comes with a road hazard warranty from the manufacturer. Falken will replace your tire within 2 years and 2/32" of treadwear.
2. Falken apparently will only do the above if the tire is actually punctured. A gash in the sidewall or a screw or nail which doesn't completely penetrate the tire isn't covered apparently.

Discount Tire pulled the screw. It was 1/2" embedded, maybe a tad less. No air leakage in the 2.5 weeks since I noticed the screw and none when they removed it. DT wouldn't replace the tire under warranty unless it was leaking air. I argued a bit with the guy given how I will run close to max PSI when towing as well as airing down when offroad. He basically said "it came right out so it wasn't in the belt, the tire is thicker than the screw was embedded, don't worry about it".

Part of me wishes I'd driven on that tire until the screw was fully embedded and the tire was leaking. For the moment I'm leaving the tire fully inflated as my spare...

 

[bloc]

Replying to myself for posterity as well as notes for future lucky souls.

1. The Falken Wildpeak RT 01 tires comes with a road hazard warranty from the manufacturer. Falken will replace your tire within 2 years and 2/32" of treadwear.
2. Falken apparently will only do the above if the tire is actually punctured. A gash in the sidewall or a screw or nail which doesn't completely penetrate the tire isn't covered apparently.

Discount Tire pulled the screw. It was 1/2" embedded, maybe a tad less. No air leakage in the 2.5 weeks since I noticed the screw and none when they removed it. DT wouldn't replace the tire under warranty unless it was leaking air. I argued a bit with the guy given how I will run close to max PSI when towing as well as airing down when offroad. He basically said "it came right out so it wasn't in the belt, the tire is thicker than the screw was embedded, don't worry about it".

Part of me wishes I'd driven on that tire until the screw was fully embedded and the tire was leaking. For the moment I'm leaving the tire fully inflated as my spare...

I've pulled the screw and driven on.. a lot of times. We routinely do this with fire apparatus tires, at the direction of our maintenance shop. We even know by now to use soapy water to determine whether it's leaking before notifying them of a nail/screw in the tire, because we can anticipate what their instructions will be based on that result.

Plus, those of us that off-road often cut tires that deep with rocks and drive many more tens of thousands of miles.

I really do think that tire is fine.

 

[Heckraiser]

Just punch the screw through with a nail set I'd probably goop the hole up with rubber cement and keep going.

 

[MikeDeadly]

Possible SQOD,
Is manually opening/closing the rear hatch bad for the motorized opener/closer? If I have the button on the dash depressed to keep the motorized opener from functioning (like I do when I am parked in my garage) but want to get into the back, will opening/closing it damage that function?
Much grass.
-M

 

[grinchy]

Possible SQOD,
Is manually opening/closing the rear hatch bad for the motorized opener/closer? If I have the button on the dash depressed to keep the motorized opener from functioning (like I do when I am parked in my garage) but want to get into the back, will opening/closing it damage that function?
Much grass.
-M

I’ve had mine turned off for 4 years. No issue so far

 

[linuxgod]

Just punch the screw through with a nail set I'd probably goop the hole up with rubber cement and keep going.

Yeah I may cut a plug down and stuff it in just to close the gap and strengthen the spot

 

[linuxgod]

I've pulled the screw and driven on.. a lot of times. We routinely do this with fire apparatus tires, at the direction of our maintenance shop. We even know by now to use soapy water to determine whether it's leaking before notifying them of a nail/screw in the tire, because we can anticipate what their instructions will be based on that result.

Plus, those of us that off-road often cut tires that deep with rocks and drive many more tens of thousands of miles.

I really do think that tire is fine.

I’ve done it before too, though not quite as deep. And I will probably run it in my rotation. Just makes me slightly nervous.

 

[mpmoody15]

I spent several hours over the last few days installing Budbuilt sliders on my 200. For the most part, everything bolted up ok EXCEPT for the KDSS lines and manifold on the driver side frame. Those shifted back by 1/4” and I have no idea why. How important is it that these are bolted to the frame? I’d imagine after miles of road vibration this is a potential wear through problem?

 

[bryson]

I spent several hours over the last few days installing Budbuilt sliders on my 200. For the most part, everything bolted up ok EXCEPT for the KDSS lines and manifold on the driver side frame. Those shifted back by 1/4” and I have no idea why. How important is it that these are bolted to the frame? I’d imagine after miles of road vibration this is a potential wear through problem?

I'd 100% attach them. A future KDSS issue isn't likely to strand you, but it's not a system that's cheap or easy to repair, so I'd avoid an issue if possible.