SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (19 Viewers)

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Hi guys, this definitely falls into the category of "stupid question." Mainly because the only opinion that matters is mine, lol. :hillbilly:

I'm getting new tires as soon as I have some extra cash on hand. Mine are getting low on tread and aren't cutting it in the snow anymore. I've currently got 18x8 TRD tundra wheels with 285/75r18 terra grapplers and 1" spacers. I'm looking for a "more rubber" look and a wider contact patch (just my preference) which I'm hoping a wider tire will accomplish, but ideally I'd really like to downsize to 17" wheels as well.

I've got some 17x8.5 Method mr316's in my cart on tirerack along with 315/70r17 falkens. But my inner cheap-ass is pushing me towards keeping my 18's because I already own them. 35x12.5x18 tires are all $50-100 more expensive than similar 17" sizes and most of them are out of stock on tirerack, but sticking with my current wheels would save me a lot more $ than the difference in tires. I could sell my spacers to recoup a little of the cost of new 17's though.

Also, a 12.5" wide tire is technically too wide to run on an 8" wheel, although I have run over-wide tires many times in the past without any ill effects beyond handling quirks.

So should I follow my dreams and get the 17s? Or should I give in to my frugal side and stick with the 18's?

Go ahead and flame me!
 
In case anybody wants to know what a new fuel filler door looks like. This is heading to the paint shop tomorrow for a fresh coat of Super White. It is held in place with some special pop rivet. Door was $41.88 from McGeorge. Shop said they would shoot the paint and install for $100.
View attachment 1542979 View attachment 1542980
Did your door stop opening all the way? Mine only opened about 40% last fill up. I didn’t see an obvious root cause . . .
 
Hi guys, this definitely falls into the category of "stupid question." Mainly because the only opinion that matters is mine, lol. :hillbilly:

I'm getting new tires as soon as I have some extra cash on hand. Mine are getting low on tread and aren't cutting it in the snow anymore. I've currently got 18x8 TRD tundra wheels with 285/75r18 terra grapplers and 1" spacers. I'm looking for a "more rubber" look and a wider contact patch (just my preference) which I'm hoping a wider tire will accomplish, but ideally I'd really like to downsize to 17" wheels as well.

I've got some 17x8.5 Method mr316's in my cart on tirerack along with 315/70r17 falkens. But my inner cheap-ass is pushing me towards keeping my 18's because I already own them. 35x12.5x18 tires are all $50-100 more expensive than similar 17" sizes and most of them are out of stock on tirerack, but sticking with my current wheels would save me a lot more $ than the difference in tires. I could sell my spacers to recoup a little of the cost of new 17's though.

Also, a 12.5" wide tire is technically too wide to run on an 8" wheel, although I have run over-wide tires many times in the past without any ill effects beyond handling quirks.

So should I follow my dreams and get the 17s? Or should I give in to my frugal side and stick with the 18's?

Go ahead and flame me!
I waited for four years for a sale on 17” rims, until then I couldn’t justify the cost either. I guess if you amortize over three sets of tires? That’s the long term view.
Definitely you should move up to a 35” though, regardless of the rim.
 
Mine look the same. Can the daytime running lights be disabled?

Yes, just unplug the DRL resister that looks like this on the passenger side of the engine bay
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Hi guys, this definitely falls into the category of "stupid question." Mainly because the only opinion that matters is mine, lol. :hillbilly:

I'm getting new tires as soon as I have some extra cash on hand. Mine are getting low on tread and aren't cutting it in the snow anymore. I've currently got 18x8 TRD tundra wheels with 285/75r18 terra grapplers and 1" spacers. I'm looking for a "more rubber" look and a wider contact patch (just my preference) which I'm hoping a wider tire will accomplish, but ideally I'd really like to downsize to 17" wheels as well.

I've got some 17x8.5 Method mr316's in my cart on tirerack along with 315/70r17 falkens. But my inner cheap-ass is pushing me towards keeping my 18's because I already own them. 35x12.5x18 tires are all $50-100 more expensive than similar 17" sizes and most of them are out of stock on tirerack, but sticking with my current wheels would save me a lot more $ than the difference in tires. I could sell my spacers to recoup a little of the cost of new 17's though.

Also, a 12.5" wide tire is technically too wide to run on an 8" wheel, although I have run over-wide tires many times in the past without any ill effects beyond handling quirks.

So should I follow my dreams and get the 17s? Or should I give in to my frugal side and stick with the 18's?

Go ahead and flame me!

The biggest change will be going with 35x12.5s. You'll be so far ahead with more sidewall that the difference between 17s and 18s won't matter much. Probably more an aesthetic than functional difference IMO.

I wouldn't hesitate to run an over-wide tire on a 8" rim. It's only 5" which I've done before without noticeable difference. Maybe some minor impact to load rating and handling. Both have plenty of margin in this fitment. Where it will have an advantage is as a poor mans bead lock to lower pressures.
 
Technically, I'm already pretty much at a 35" tire with the 285/75's just narrow section width. I'm just afraid that I'll wish I had gone with the 17's every time I look at the truck. Once I spend $1600-1800 on tires alone, pretty much no chance I'm going back for a re-do :eek:

Anybody have pictures of a 35x12.5x18 or maybe a 305/70r18 on an LX? I'm pretty sure my gut is telling me to cry once and get the 17's :-/
 
Did your door stop opening all the way? Mine only opened about 40% last fill up. I didn’t see an obvious root cause . . .
No, one of the hinges broke, so the door was drooping when I opened it. I believe it fatigued due to the hinge being stiff which caused it to break off the tab on the door. Maybe put some oil on the hinge, see if that helps. I try to remember to oil mine every time I do an oil change, when I'm doing all the door hinges.
 
No, one of the hinges broke, so the door was drooping when I opened it. I believe it fatigued due to the hinge being stiff which caused it to break off the tab on the door. Maybe put some oil on the hinge, see if that helps. I try to remember to oil mine every time I do an oil change, when I'm doing all the door hinges.
Thanks. Yeah mine is binding somehow. I don’t see anything in the hinge. This is as far as it will go, to get it here the whole riveted bracket is torquing. It still closes flush.
Just ignore the portable trail I keep in there.

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Is your door spring intact? Maybe it's bent or wonky.

I carry a spare one just in case.
Spring seems fine. It unlatches and closes fine. Just isn’t pivoting on the hinge. I’m going to order a new door.
 
That's not going to work with my LRA filler neck. I'll start inspecting the mechanism now, before problems come along.
 
Spring seems fine. It unlatches and closes fine. Just isn’t pivoting on the hinge. I’m going to order a new door.
That reminds me of the 200 I looked at on a used car lot, back when I was on the hunt years ago. Among other issues, the gas door hinge was stuck like that so someone just bent the door open permanently. 🤬

It also had a huge hole in the muffler and the tail pipe was rotted off. Sales dude told me it was going to Midas to get fixed. Uhhh... No thanks.
 
That reminds me of the 200 I looked at on a used car lot, back when I was on the hunt years ago. Among other issues, the gas door hinge was stuck like that so someone just bent the door open permanently. 🤬

It also had a huge hole in the muffler and the tail pipe was rotted off. Sales dude told me it was going to Midas to get fixed. Uhhh... No thanks.
It’s very strange, worked fine two full ups ago. Luckily it hasn’t spread to the exhaust system yet.
 
It’s very strange, worked fine two full ups ago. Luckily it hasn’t spread to the exhaust system yet.
I used to have this happen on my 17 Tacoma.
Every now and then it would fold on the hinge funny and do this same thing.

I think it eventually stopped doing it with a little we blending.
Weird.
 
Ooof. Someone in my household plugged something too large of draw into the rear 120V plug of the 200. It’s no longer working. Is there an accessible fuse somewhere? I didn’t see one in the main fuse diagram.
 
Ooof. Someone in my household plugged something too large of draw into the rear 120V plug of the 200. It’s no longer working. Is there an accessible fuse somewhere? I didn’t see one in the main fuse diagram.

Hrmm... If I recall, it auto resets. I did some load testing back in the day and it would turn-off once the load exceeded about 110W. And turn back on automagically once the load was removed.
 
Hrmm... If I recall, it auto resets. I did some load testing back in the day and it would turn-off once the load exceeded about 110W. And turn back on automagically once the load was removed.
Thank you. Maybe the key cycle does it. I'll check shortly when I can unhook myself from the endless conference calls today.
 
My 2010 LX driver's side mirror won't fold and also has the "floppy mirror" syndrome when driving, especially when I attach my towing mirrors. Right now I've got it held open with duct tape.

Will the folding mirror fix with this video and part solve both problems or are they two separate issues?

Toyota / Lexus Retractor repair kit left hand side: 8796660C20

 
If I park on a slight uneven surface, the shifter on my 2013 gives a single twitch when the truck is put into park, after the brake is released when the vehicle settles. I’m not concerned, but I wanted run this by the group.
 
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