SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)

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But you have to have an OEM to program those I think.

I never had the OEM remote. Most of the control codes are industry standard. I just bought the remote, pointed it at the screen, and it worked. There are obviously extra buttons on the remove that are useless in the truck. But play, pause, etc. all work great.
 
Yes is not entirely true. The front center caps will need slight modification to fit as the cap on the hub protrudes farther on the earlier models so the cap doesn't seat without a little work.
Really? First I’m hearing if this. I want to put on the heritage bronze wheels on my 2011. What modifications to the center caps are you speaking of????
 
That joints zerk is suck a pain to get to also! The lock n lube doesn't fit into the space there and I need to find the right zerk fitting for my grease gun to get in there
If the front zerk is facing the passenger side and your skid plate is out of the way, you can reach it using the lock n lube. All done by feel.
 
Really? First I’m hearing if this. I want to put on the heritage bronze wheels on my 2011. What modifications to the center caps are you speaking of????
I am not sure about the heritage wheels but getting the 2016+ wheels to fit on my 2013 required a small amount of plastic from the center cap to be removed. About 1/8” of an inch. The wheels fit just fine but getting the center caps to clip in on the front wheels required this small alteration.
 
I am not sure about the heritage wheels but getting the 2016+ wheels to fit on my 2013 required a small amount of plastic from the center cap to be removed. About 1/8” of an inch. The wheels fit just fine but getting the center caps to clip in on the front wheels required this small alteration.
Or you can install new grease caps.

New hub grease caps, part number 43514-60020

It will fit perfectly.
 
If the front zerk is facing the passenger side and your skid plate is out of the way, you can reach it using the lock n lube. All done by feel.
I'll give it another try. I had it facing passenger, I've gotten it with the regular fitting on the grease gun but enjoying how easy the connect and disconnects are with the lock n lube. For me it was too bulky to fit in that space. I also don't have the greatest patience
 
True with the constant wear. I had a 295 test fit and it only hits the KDSS bar a full lock turn as most people use the engine throttle speed…such as turning into a side load home garage to park. I’m more worried about hurting the KDSS bar.
Slee and Trail Tailor have KDSS relocation mods that helps with larger tires.



Check out this thread: KDSS relocation kit - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/kdss-relocation-kit.1236956/
 
But you have to have an OEM to program those I think.
If you end up needing to, we can meet up somewhere and try using mine. Will likely be at Sierra Nevada next month meeting the club for a ride. PM to work something out.
 
If you end up needing to, we can meet up somewhere and try using mine. Will likely be at Sierra Nevada next month meeting the club for a ride. PM to work something out.
Say whaaaa!!!?? I’ll pm you!
 
I never had the OEM remote. Most of the control codes are industry standard. I just bought the remote, pointed it at the screen, and it worked. There are obviously extra buttons on the remove that are useless in the truck. But play, pause, etc. all work great.
Oh nice. Do you have the link to that remote? Wonder if it will work!?
 
Slee and Trail Tailor have KDSS relocation mods that helps with larger tires.



Check out this thread: KDSS relocation kit - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/kdss-relocation-kit.1236956/
I thought about doing this but was concerned it can cause other issues. What should i be worried about and is this more of a concern during hard off-roading which I don’t do. Mostly fire roads and gravel/dirt farm roads. I will be doing some off-road trails in MT next summer but nothing extreme(intermediate type trails). Anyone have a “how to video” or directions for install ?
 
I thought about doing this but was concerned it can cause other issues. What should i be worried about and is this more of a concern during hard off-roading which I don’t do. Mostly fire roads and gravel/dirt farm roads. I will be doing some off-road trails in MT next summer but nothing extreme(intermediate type trails). Anyone have a “how to video” or directions for install ?
If you do the relocation, it is worth moving your endlinks outboard as well so the bushings don't wear as quickly. There's information on that here with what people did. If you're only hitting at full lock don't turn full lock if you don't want to do this? I'm on a similar boat to you where I only contact at full lock and have not bothered doing the relocation yet.
 
If you do the relocation, it is worth moving your endlinks outboard as well so the bushings don't wear as quickly. There's information on that here with what people did. If you're only hitting at full lock don't turn full lock if you don't want to do this? I'm on a similar boat to you where I only contact at full lock and have not bothered doing the relocation yet.
Same here - 34" BFG AT KO2 tires, 40 ET, only rub at full passenger lock in reverse, and only a tiny bit. Have a TT KDSS relo kit on the shelf in the shop, but can't talk myself into putting the links outside the pocket on the LCA.
 
Same here - 34" BFG AT KO2 tires, 40 ET, only rub at full passenger lock in reverse, and only a tiny bit. Have a TT KDSS relo kit on the shelf in the shop, but can't talk myself into putting the links outside the pocket on the LCA.

I don't know if the KDSS links see more force than the LX ones, but I ended up cutting the front of the pocket off and extending it out to get my links to line up. Felt more comfortable than just putting it on the outside with a safety washer.
 
If you do the relocation, it is worth moving your endlinks outboard as well so the bushings don't wear as quickly. There's information on that here with what people did. If you're only hitting at full lock don't turn full lock if you don't want to do this? I'm on a similar boat to you where I only contact at full lock and have not bothered doing the relocation yet.
You want to run larger tires. But you also want to prevent the said larger tires to impact your KDSS bar. You also want to prevent unnecessary wear and a potential blow out on your tires from not correcting said rubbing.

You're rationalizing your decision to not prevent the rubbing because it will cause additional other problems.

Get smaller tires if you want everything to work stock. You're stuffing oversized tires for self reported "fire roads and gravel/dirt farm roads'. You don't need 295's for that. You want them because you think they look cool.

I doubt there is much of anything that your 295/70r18 will be able to do that 275/70r18 won't be able to.
 
You want to run larger tires. But you also want to prevent the said larger tires to impact your KDSS bar. You also want to prevent unnecessary wear and a potential blow out on your tires from not correcting said rubbing.

You're rationalizing your decision to not prevent the rubbing because it will cause additional other problems.

Get smaller tires if you want everything to work stock. You're stuffing oversized tires for self reported "fire roads and gravel/dirt farm roads'. You don't need 295's for that. You want them because you think they look cool.

I doubt there is much of anything that your 295/70r18 will be able to do that 275/70r18 won't be able to.
Absolutely true. I like the cool factor of being able to see over every dang truck in my area that out numbers cars, it seems like anyways. Main real factor for me, is that Recon now carries a SL tire and want a more comfortable ride where I can’t get that in a 285/70 or 275/70.
 
Absolutely true. I like the cool factor of being able to see over every dang truck in my area that out numbers cars, it seems like anyways. Main real factor for me, is that Recon now carries a SL tire and want a more comfortable ride where I can’t get that in a 285/70 or 275/70.
Going to E rated 275/70 tires actually improved the ride feel of my vehicle. I wouldn't put passenger tires on our trucks, especially yours with sliders and a 12.5 LRA. But again, just my 0.02. You do you, whatever it is, as long as you're happy that's all that matters.
 
Absolutely true. I like the cool factor of being able to see over every dang truck in my area that out numbers cars, it seems like anyways. Main real factor for me, is that Recon now carries a SL tire and want a more comfortable ride where I can’t get that in a 285/70 or 275/70.
Agree with prwillard2. The tires you want max load is 2756lbs, where if you look at the tables of RCTIP and all a 200 tire pressures are set to handle 2512lbs. So you'll be sitting at around 42psi and the max psi on those tires says 44. Probably not a smart choice for a fat girl like a 200. SL tires will also not have the sidewall strength an E or D rated tire will have. Better off getting an E or D tire, just in case a branch or something tries to poke the sidewall.

Your signature says you're running 285/70s already... If you're gonna go bigger in tire it shouldn't only be 1/2"
 
Agree with prwillard2. The tires you want max load is 2756lbs, where if you look at the tables of RCTIP and all a 200 tire pressures are set to handle 2512lbs. So you'll be sitting at around 42psi and the max psi on those tires says 44. Probably not a smart choice for a fat girl like a 200. SL tires will also not have the sidewall strength an E or D rated tire will have. Better off getting an E or D tire, just in case a branch or something tries to poke the sidewall.

Your signature says you're running 285/70s already... If you're gonna go bigger in tire it shouldn't only be 1/2"
Ugh! I was under the wrong impression the SL load rating of the Recons of 2756lbs. was plenty for my 200 and the RCTIP from Gaijin is 33psi. So now I’m confused and I certainly don’t want a unsafe tire load for long distance family trips and I do tend to run over crap in the freeway.
 

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