SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (11 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

2013 LC tint question: I live in the south, my truck has standard from-the-factory rear privacy glass (none on fronts), and I want to reduce interior heat & UV (especially for my 2 year old who passes out in his seat and gets toasted by sun), and try to have even looking/matching tint fronts to rear.
I prefer to not have limo-dark all around. My wife's SUV came close to that after relying on the installer's opinion, and it is really hard to see backing up at night. I just want a medium matching tint all around. But if I have to limo up, then I have to you know. I do not want dark windshield top 1/4 at all - if there is a clear options of course add that advice too.

So - how do I accomplish this?
A. Settle for as is rear and cargo, and then just match front as best as possible? Does this block well enough for rear sleeping kid sun issue?
B. Or tint each window - front, rear, and cargo? So I'd have to tint over top of the factory privacy glass? And if so, ball park %? I've seen 20% posted on mud.
Not sure about the tint question itself but I highly recommend upgrading the backup light bulbs to a high output LED no matter what tint you end up with. It changed nighttime backups for my tint to where I can actually see again and the camera is so much clearer as well. There are threads with the bulbs you need linked if you search. Good luck.
 
About to pull the trigger on small/leveling front lift. I parked beside a sharp looking ~2019 today. It had stock everything from best I could tell, oem sized tires (mine are 65 ratio vs 60), and it just had a better front stance. Nose was an inch or so higher it appeared. I want this. I had this on my 4runner ( 5/8" spacer for 1.25"ish level lift ) and loved it.

Is there anything slightly bigger than the ~3/8" (43136-60020) OEM spacer that I can do without replacing suspension and all that? I see the bolts run out of enough threads if go much more than this OEM option, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I have a good install shop that focuses on LC/Yotas down the road and just want to make sure I have the experts' opinions (here) before getting their expert feedback as well.

Thanks folks. Stupid question(s) of the day thread is where I belong. ha

Be aware that there is another concern to overspacing the shock other than having enough thread on the top hat of the coilover.

You'll never want to space the shock enough that it becomes the limiting component in uptravel. That is the concern of the LCA and bump stop. There's been people on the Tundra forums that have stacked multiple spacers, only to catastrophically destroy the shock. Where that limitation on the 200-series, I'm not sure. Definitely the factory spacer is fine. Perhaps even a washer or two.

May also want to be aware, that some rake is good in that it helps when hauling heavy payloads so the rear does not overly squat relatively to the front. If you do haul anything, airbags might be good to help with load support.

See the source image
 
Be aware that there is another concern to overspacing the shock other than having enough thread on the top hat of the coilover.

You'll never want to space the shock enough that it becomes the limiting component in uptravel. That is the concern of the LCA and bump stop. There's been people on the Tundra forums that have stacked multiple spacers, only to catastrophically destroy the shock. Where that limitation on the 200-series, I'm not sure. Definitely the factory spacer is fine. Perhaps even a washer or two.

May also want to be aware, that some rake is good in that it helps when hauling heavy payloads so the rear does not overly squat relatively to the front. If you do haul anything, airbags might be good to help with load support.

See the source image
That's a very good point. I've seen Tundra spacers (mass-produced and sold) that are over 1.5" tall (the spacer themselves!). Of course that doesn't mean they are not going to bottom your shock out, but I have to imagine (hope) the big suspension companies that sell them have checked into that.

All I'm saying, is I'd imagine you could easily run any spacer/combo shorter than 1.5" or so height (spacer height, not lift height) and be OK.

This image of a Tundra kit shows a pretty tall strut spacer with extra "trim" plates to fine tune the height. They're pretty tall spacers.
***edit*** There does appear to be bumpstop spacers in the pictured kit, and that should help prevent bottoming issues.
TU1993
 
Last edited:
Is there an easy way to make my fog lights stay on with the high beams?
Or fog lights on without the headlights. In dense fog, you dont want the headlights on, just the fogs. My mercedes e420 worked like that and it was very helpful. Come to think of it, it was about the only thing that worked reliably on that POS.
 
My turn... What the life span of the LC TPMS sensors?
 
Is there an easy way to make my fog lights stay on with the high beams?

On my Touareg there was a "6-Light Hack" which allowed Lows, Highs and Fogs all to be on at the same time; but I know of no such hack for the LC200.
 
Anyone had trouble with the connectors that came with the Slee group 31 battery tray kit? I was having intermittent trouble starting (like really intermittent - once a year or so), but the battery tested fine. Not high priority, so took me forever to finally check it out. I decided to swap out the positive connector to see if that helped, and was surprised to see this corrosion(?) on the side that meets the extender. New one (via Amazon) on the right:

View attachment 2204536

Posting here because odds are I was the stupid one and didn't tighten it or something. I tightened the #$!@ out of the new one and the one on negative terminal, hope that was the problem.
A recent related thread on the topic
 
Not sure about the tint question itself but I highly recommend upgrading the backup light bulbs to a high output LED no matter what tint you end up with. It changed nighttime backups for my tint to where I can actually see again and the camera is so much clearer as well. There are threads with the bulbs you need linked if you search. Good luck.

Do you have a link to the high output leds you’d recommend?
 
A recent related thread on the topic

Nice! Not sure how I missed this, though Amazon says I picked up the connector back in September, so it clearly took me a while to get around to swapping it. I do like how he figured it out over a couple weeks while it took me almost two years, ha!
 
Time for another one.... those of you that have lift and front coil spacer, did you do a diff drop? I've read that the CV are stout but is this too much angle?

20200212_125808.jpg
 
What is the factory OEM safe water fording depth on the LC200?

... never mind ... I found after more searching at 700mm or 27.6"
 
What Light bar is this on the front of the arb roof rack? I couldn't find it on the arb website, and this pick is from the arb catalog.

arb-rack-with-stuff.JPG
 
I had no luck searching for this....there are two electrical behaviors I can't explain:

1) When slowing (to say 10mph or lower) my 2016+ LC makes a noise that seems to be coming from the driver side mirror, but the mirror doesn't seem to move? It's an electrical servo-like sound and lasts about 1-2 seconds. What could this be?

2) Sometimes the driver's seat seems to have moved to a different position while parked. It doesn't forget the assigned memory position, but definitely seems to have shifted from it. My old Infiniti would move wheel/seat for entry and exit, but then move back to assigned position once the car was started. That's definitely not happening with the LC200. Is this intentional? Is there a cause/effect I'm missing?

Thanks.
 
This seems like the right spot for this question.

I am curious if you must come to a complete stop to shift from 4H to 4L and back or if this could be done while coasting along in N? It would be super convenient to shift to N while rolling and hit 4H for the park roads in between trails at OHV areas and in other situations as well. Not exactly the kind of thing I'm about to experiment with to find the answer for fear of :skull:
 
This seems like the right spot for this question.

I am curious if you must come to a complete stop to shift from 4H to 4L and back or if this could be done while coasting along in N? It would be super convenient to shift to N while rolling and hit 4H for the park roads in between trails at OHV areas and in other situations as well. Not exactly the kind of thing I'm about to experiment with to find the answer for fear of :skull:

Having been inside several transfer cases (but not from a 200-series), this is something I would only do while fully stopped. What does the Owner's Manual say?
 
I had no luck searching for this....there are two electrical behaviors I can't explain:

1) When slowing (to say 10mph or lower) my 2016+ LC makes a noise that seems to be coming from the driver side mirror, but the mirror doesn't seem to move? It's an electrical servo-like sound and lasts about 1-2 seconds. What could this be?

2) Sometimes the driver's seat seems to have moved to a different position while parked. It doesn't forget the assigned memory position, but definitely seems to have shifted from it. My old Infiniti would move wheel/seat for entry and exit, but then move back to assigned position once the car was started. That's definitely not happening with the LC200. Is this intentional? Is there a cause/effect I'm missing?

Thanks.


The mirrors tilt down if backing up if the mirror selector switch is in the middle position.
The steering wheel moves for exit when the vehicle is turned off, I'm not sure if the seat also moves as I have it all the way back for driving.
That noise could be the automatic air recirculate. Test by switching to manual.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom