CruiserFan88 - following this thread, where did you order the parts from? Want to do the same on mine.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (38 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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The cheapest I found was toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com. Never used them before. Usually use toyotapartsdeal.com but they were about $30 more out-the-door.
These arrived today. With a pair of needle nose pliers I was able to pull them straight up and out. I had one old one break at a few places as I had to apply a little more force than I thought would be necessary. Not surprising for the age. The new ones snapped back into place easy. I had the windows rolled down one day and noticed the rear driver side rubber had slightly rolled down with the window glass. Upon further investigation, I found that all four seals looked dry and were con caved in the middle of the window. There is a thread where a member provides some suggestions for a rubber/seal conditioner and I considered going that route since I wasn't sure what all it would take to replace. Thanks to steenh/Markuson for sharing and doing the leg work making replacing the seals completely, a breeze.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I just connect the phone with Bluetooth and switch the radio to BT Audio
I have a 2013 LC and I don't see any "A-Trac" button. Is the crawl control a replacement? If so, that only works in low range. What traction control works in highrange other than locking the center diff?
Thanks
Thanks
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I looked into this just a bit. It’s actually a stand alone module on the GX but at least from the wiring diagrams I recall the LX runs it through a skid control ECU (or some such name), and no guarantee that our dash cluster could display the text either.
I’ll try to pull the wiring diagrams this weekend but I recall the idea of a new module that has a totally different pin out was somewhat disconcerting
Markuson
SILVER Star
(Again...took forever to correct typing errors...eyes. So hope this helps as I am giving up on more edits)
ATRAC is active by default.
To turn it off, poke (don’t hold down) the traction button (car with wavy lines under it).
Holding same button down for 3 seconds while stopped turns off VSC too.
To turn off only VSC, press center diff lock button. This dumps VSC and keeps ATRAC.
ATRAC uses automatic application of brakes to stop wheel-spin.
VSC tries to compensate for loss of traction in turns in dirt, etc.
I turn off VSC on slippery dirt roads by hitting center diff lock.
If having trouble keeping momentum up and over steep obstacle, turning off ATRAC can sometimes help as it stops applying brakes.
No single answer best.
Depends on many factors.
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Thanks for the clarification. Going from a FJ60 to this truck is like the Flintstones ending up with the Jetsons. .
Markuson
SILVER Star
Don’t feel primitive.
Honestly, I think it’s confusing to *most* people—including folks who wheel 200s regularly. Was a little strange to me too at first.
Almost needs an in-the-field course demo with spots and obstacles that trigger various system responses to help wrap folks heads around what it’s actually doing...when...and why turning things on or off in certain situations might be smart.
For me, I now associate each feature with memories of certain terrain, conditions or obstacles from past situations. But without that, it’s pretty abstract to try and sort out.
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TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
My SQOD is: Am I making a mistake by buying the Dobinsons Snorkel instead of the Safari Snorkel, based on my preference for having "Land Cruiser" molded into it vs the Safari logo? Also, it's half the cost. What am I missing?
This was completely my decision process. I have zero regrets. Half the price 100% of the capability. Install was exactly the same. I love that it says land cruiser on the side of it. I have found though that having a snorkel confuses some of the general public....
The Dobinson seems to be thinner than the safari. It look better as it's sleeker, but I'm not sure how well it works when the engine needs a lot of air? Thinner means less air cubic feet per minute are possible, but I'm not sure if the Safari is over kill or not?
Cleaning off my work bench and found the fitting for the pressure switch for my ARB compressor. I must have tossed the switch because I can’t find it.
My compressor runs fine. Why do I need it? I don’t have lockers or an air tank.
My compressor runs fine. Why do I need it? I don’t have lockers or an air tank.
When I get out to air up, I turn the pump on and let it run to pressure cutoff. Then I don't have to come back into the cabin. Simply connect the hose and air is ready.
Without the switch, what prevents the pump from exceeding it's rating if dead headed?
Without the switch, what prevents the pump from exceeding it's rating if dead headed?
I defiantly shuts off at some cutoff. My local 4 wheel parts has the switch for $12. Easy choice so I can stop worrying about It.
Thanks
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I just installed an ARB single compressor with the air up kit, and it had one of those in it so you could install both the pressure switch and the air hose quick attach coupling in the single port on the compressor.
^^ This. Your pressure switch is probably just on the second port. If it's turning off then it's working.
it’s defiantly not since I didn’t install the fitting. The chick is connected right to the manifold.
I remember being confused because the install guide makes no mention of it.
