SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (1 Viewer)

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Am I the only one who finds the LC remote fob to be absolute trash? As garbage as it is, I'd rather 2 keys, one for the ignition the other for the doors. Hell even that crank start would be better than this.

Non issue for mine. I keep it in my pocket and don't think twice about it. Remote starts or lock/unlocks from 50-100 ft away. What issues are you having?
 
Thanks guys re: the tips and advice related to driving in the snow. I made it there and back w/out issue. Encountered snow but not too deep. Packed snow and ice in some areas but not too bad - I kept it slow and smooth. I found a big rig that was driving at a comfortable speed with chains and just drove in his tracks for much of the drive. ABS engaged once (and I was only doing about 20mph) but the car still tracked straight. One tip for me: in the future, I'll remember to bring a bottle of wiper fluid - I think I ran out wiping all the crud off the glass, especially the back side.

The K02 made it through w/out issue but I didn't really feel sure footed. Couple of times I think it felt like understeering. I'd be interested in the AT3W if they would help. But the K02's are new (only 5K miles on them) so it'll be a long while before I buy anything.
 
Both the extremely short range, and how temperamental they seem to be. Some days, few quick presses, everything is fine, some days I can lay on the buttons with all the pressure in the world, nothing. I've swapped batteries, and it's both remotes. I dunno, I guess I'm used to other ones.

If you're pushing buttons on the remote, you're doing it wrong. Mine never leaves my pocket (unless I'm driving the other car). My only complaint is the size, but that's been solved now by YotaMD.
 
Thanks guys re: the tips and advice related to driving in the snow. I made it there and back w/out issue. Encountered snow but not too deep. Packed snow and ice in some areas but not too bad - I kept it slow and smooth. I found a big rig that was driving at a comfortable speed with chains and just drove in his tracks for much of the drive. ABS engaged once (and I was only doing about 20mph) but the car still tracked straight. One tip for me: in the future, I'll remember to bring a bottle of wiper fluid - I think I ran out wiping all the crud off the glass, especially the back side.

The K02 made it through w/out issue but I didn't really feel sure footed. Couple of times I think it felt like understeering. I'd be interested in the AT3W if they would help. But the K02's are new (only 5K miles on them) so it'll be a long while before I buy anything.

I don’t think you’re going to feel sure footed on anything in the AT category. Especially on packed snow and ice. Once I put dedicated Nokian winter tires on our 200...night and day difference on packed snow and ice compared to ATs.
 
So how do you remote start without pushing buttons?

I push the button on the OTHER remote. The one that works. The one with lots of range. (CompuStar aftermarket) Honestly, I rarely use it.

Yeah, I know. Not helpful for your case.
 
Non issue for mine. I keep it in my pocket and don't think twice about it. Remote starts or lock/unlocks from 50-100 ft away. What issues are you having?

This has been my positive experience too...and my FOBs are more than twelve years old now. I love my YOTAMD casings. Same innards after all the years. Taken them in hot-spring pools, fully submerged...washed them with clothes in the machine...and they both are fine.

One issue I find that has nothing to do with the FOB is that sometimes it’s hard to order quality batteries. Other than that, they’ve been great.
 
I don’t think you’re going to feel sure footed on anything in the AT category. Especially on packed snow and ice. Once I put dedicated Nokian winter tires on our 200...night and day difference on packed snow and ice compared to ATs.

Agree on ATs in general being bad news for that.. KO, KO2 and my current Ridge Grapplers all great on most everything else...but definitely no bueno on ice.
 
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I did something really stupid while replacing the water pump on my LX. After tightening some of the bolts that attach the water pump to the engine, I realized that my cheap torque wrench had failed and I had way over torqued them. I figured this out when one of the bolts snapped. :facepalm: I’m planning to replace the gasket in case it was over compressed, and I’d also like to replace all of the bolts since some were damaged. So my SQOD is a two-parter:

1. What is the best way to extract the broken bolt from the engine?

2. What are the correct specs for ordering the three bolt types? I found some info from the FSM but there are way more options on the McMasterCarr website than I could decipher.

Thanks!

F7A151A9-D16E-4AAD-BFA4-9869605B7BAC.jpeg
 
View attachment 2158612

I did something really stupid while replacing the water pump on my LX. After tightening some of the bolts that attach the water pump to the engine, I realized that my cheap torque wrench had failed and I had way over torqued them. I figured this out when one of the bolts snapped. :facepalm: I’m planning to replace the gasket in case it was over compressed, and I’d also like to replace all of the bolts since some were damaged. So my SQOD is a two-parter:

1. What is the best way to extract the broken bolt from the engine?

2. What are the correct specs for ordering the three bolt types? I found some info from the FSM but there are way more options on the McMasterCarr website than I could decipher.

Thanks!

View attachment 2158610
Personally I would just buy them from a dealer, or order the OEM ones to save the hassle. If you order from McMaster, make sure to get the right diameter, thread pitch, length, grade, and type. I.e. that one in the picture is a flange bolt, since it has the flange under the head. It should be stamped on the head with the grade (probably 8.8 or 10.9). Get your lengths from the table. The thread pitch is probably 1.25mm for the 8mm bolts, and 1.25mm or 1.5mm for the 10mm ones.
 
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1. What is the best way to extract the broken bolt from the engine?

I am thinking that the way that bolt stretched, you don't have any threads visible on the bolt that broke. In that case, i can only think of 1 way to remove it and its going to be a pain. Likely to get to that spot, you're going to have to remove the radiator and part of the front bumper and drill it out and use an easy-out to remove it. Sorry.
 
1. What is the best way to extract the broken bolt from the engine?

We need to see a photo of how it is broken off before making a recommendation. Is it flush, or is there any part of it left exposed?

2. What are the correct specs for ordering the three bolt types? I found some info from the FSM but there are way more options on the McMasterCarr website than I could decipher.

I would go straight to Toyota for those bolts. Yes you will pay more. But they will be the correct thread pitch and length.
 
Removed one of the bottom shields and found this item lying on it. I have put a quarter next to it for a size reference. Does anyone know what it is and where it goes?

IMG_2029.jpg
 
Personally I would just buy them from a dealer, or order the OEM ones to save the hassle. If you order from McMaster, make sure to get the right diameter, thread pitch, length, grade, and type. I.e. that one in the picture is a flange bolt, since it has the flange under the head. It should be stamped on the head with the grade (probably 8.8 or 10.9). Get your lengths from the table. The thread pitch is probably 1.25mm for the 8mm bolts, and 1.25mm or 1.5mm for the 10mm ones.
This might be the correct 10mm one from McMaster: McMaster-Carr
And maybe the right ones for the 8mm: McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
I'm guessing on the thread pitch and grade though. Those are all grade 10.9, 1.25mm thread pitch, meeting JIS.
 
Removed one of the bottom shields and found this item lying on it. I have put a quarter next to it for a size reference. Does anyone know what it is and where it goes?

View attachment 2159488
Is that a rubber boot, or a metal guard or something along those lines?
 
Has anyone seen an OEM silver LC200 roof rack? I'm in the market to buy a OEM rack, and have only ever seen them in black (which is what I want). A seller I'm in contact with shared this photo with me:

nGAd50t.jpg


Might be an aftermarket/China clone?

// edit - Seller says it's OEM. I wonder how much it would cost to repaint this in black. Hmm...
 
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Trying to judge size here. Is that a Lx570 rack? How long is it? That would explain the color.

No idea about the size. LX570 racks have only two mounting points/feet, this one has three, like the LC200 rack should. I think I'm going to pass purely because of the colour. Don't want to have to deal with repainting, eventually flaking paint, etc.
 
View attachment 2158612

I did something really stupid while replacing the water pump on my LX. After tightening some of the bolts that attach the water pump to the engine, I realized that my cheap torque wrench had failed and I had way over torqued them. I figured this out when one of the bolts snapped. :facepalm: I’m planning to replace the gasket in case it was over compressed, and I’d also like to replace all of the bolts since some were damaged. So my SQOD is a two-parter:

1. What is the best way to extract the broken bolt from the engine?

2. What are the correct specs for ordering the three bolt types? I found some info from the FSM but there are way more options on the McMasterCarr website than I could decipher.

Thanks!

View attachment 2158610


Thanks everyone for the help. I was able to finally get the broken bolt out with some vise grips on the one thread that was still sticking out. My local Toyota dealer was not helpful in sourcing the bolts so I matched the original bolts at a hardware store. I’m not sure of the correct grade, but I bought grade 10.9. I can confirm the correct thread pitch on all three is 1.25.

Before I reinstall the water pump, I’m wondering if I should address the metal surface that the gasket attaches to in the photo below? It feels a bit rough and uneven. I also noticed a bit of rust. Maybe a light polish with a dremel?

FAD6662A-F407-4801-8C49-AD3BFB265C61.jpeg
 

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