SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (16 Viewers)

[40Man]

Ok. Stupid question 2. What’s the danger of leaving on the jack?
Is it better to jack 1 wheel in the absence of stands? I’ve only ever done 1 corner at a time.

I am paranoid when getting under a truck. I lower the rig on jack stands and keep the jack there too.

When changing to winter tires, I lift from the rear axle or front jacking point and do one wheel at a time without stands. If I am not under the car I am not worried about it too much.

For oil changes.I use ramp

I guess I’m...confused. Every OEM tire jack is hydraulic and they never recommend a stand.

If I was doing something other than changing one tire at a time, I’d see the necessity of stands. I’d never get under it on just a lift, not even to grab a lug nur.

But when doing tires, brakes etc I never get under the vehicle. Not my legs, not body, nor anything else. I don’t even out my head under the fender.

Having already broken the nuts loose, I’m 2 minutes without 1 wheel on, and lifting from the diff my other wheel is an inch off the ground. So if the lift fails, I’ve got a single rotor on the ground.

Not sure if I should be getting the Darwin Award, or just have a slightly different risk aversion. Am I missing something?

No. Technically the jack could fail, but I rotate the same way. As far as getting under a car, I am nervous even withjack stands.

I change only the oil every 5k and the filter every 10k fwiw. I have the fumoto valves and makes the oil-only option super easy. Also have the same filter cap as you, and yep, kinda annoying to have to remove the ARB skids each time but I use the time to clean out any junk that might have accumulated.

Edit - I use Toyotas 0W-20 synthetic which can obviously go longer than 5k intervals but I figure it's an ounce of prevention kinda thing. Plus it forces me to inspect more items more frequently, so I don't mind the extra effort that could be avoided.

Edit #2 - I don't recall the volume required on oil only changes, but iirc the full change, including filter, requires 7.4 quarts.

Same here. I use TRD or Mobil 1 extended performance oil filters. TBH, 10k intervals would probably be fine, but oil isn't too pricey and using the fumoto makes the process simple.

 

[FinallyGotOne!]

Thanks all - I have been using Mobil 1 Extended for years and running 10K -12.5K between changes, with supporting analysis from Blackstone. I don't want to experiment with my LX, but I am curious whether or not the OEM filter can handle more than 10K of service.

 

[linuxgod]

You asked...so here goes!

You can do it without stands, but if listen both wheels on one end of the truck, I wouldn’t doubt it without stands.

If just swapping a single tire I’ve done it.
-Just always assume the possibility of catastrophic hydrolic failure and don’t crawl under the truck without stands.

Odds are it will hold. But in the off chance it doesn’t? -People die. Don’t Roll those dice.

Always use jack stands. Seriously. If you're working under the vehicle with the tires removed, you should also place the tires under the frame so that if a stand collapses the vehicle will be stopped by the tire/wheel and not completely fall on you.

I was walking by an apartment building near my house about 2 years ago. There was a guy working under his BMW with the vehicle just supported by a hydraulic floor jack. The jack moved and the vehicle dropped down on top of him, pinning him under his vehicle. Dude was screaming - I thought for sure he was mangled. My wife and kids were there and I told her to call 911 and keep the kids away. A few people ran over (me, a UPS guy, someone walking their dog). I pulled the jack, dropped it flat, and slid it under the frame and then jacked the car back up in the air. The guy slid out basically unscathed amazingly. I said "you should go buy a set of jack stands", to which he replied "that's never happened before" and then proceeded to slide back under the car to continue his work. I promptly left before it fell again.

 

[Markuson]

Always use jack stands. Seriously. If you're working under the vehicle with the tires removed, you should also place the tires under the frame so that if a stand collapses the vehicle will be stopped by the tire/wheel and not completely fall on you.

I was walking by an apartment building near my house about 2 years ago. There was a guy working under his BMW with the vehicle just supported by a hydraulic floor jack. The jack moved and the vehicle dropped down on top of him, pinning him under his vehicle. Dude was screaming - I thought for sure he was mangled. My wife and kids were there and I told her to call 911 and keep the kids away. A few people ran over (me, a UPS guy, someone walking their dog). I pulled the jack, dropped it flat, and slid it under the frame and then jacked the car back up in the air. The guy slid out basically unscathed amazingly. I said "you should go buy a set of jack stands", to which he replied "that's never happened before" and then proceeded to slide back under the car to continue his work. I promptly left before it fell again.

Wow.
Clearly Darwin at work...
Gets trapped...gets help...then gets right back under.

 

[TonyP]

For sure. Jack stands, eye protection and gloves. I've had a hydraulic jack fail on me and I have a buddy who's blind in one eye from grinding metal without PPE. I've, personally, shanked myself in the hand twice, have no feeling in my left thumb, from when I was younger. Which would have been prevented from wearing gloves. Thirty seconds is better than a lifetime if having a Michael Bisping looking eye.

 

[40Man]

I've noticed an intermittent rattle right behind my steering wheel when driving down the road. When I push forward pressure on the steering wheel, it stops. Searched and couldn't find any others with this issue. Any idea what I can adjust to make this stop?

 

[Markuson]

I've noticed an intermittent rattle right behind my steering wheel when driving down the road. When I push forward pressure on the steering wheel, it stops. Searched and couldn't find any others with this issue. Any idea what I can adjust to make this stop?

Could be as simple as the little “skirt” around the space where the steering wheel telescopes...barely touching or not.
See if it changes based on steering wheel position adjustments.

 

[40Man]

Could be as simple as the little “skirt” around the space where the steering wheel telescopes...barely touching or not.
See if it changes based on steering wheel position adjustments.

Yeah, I thought that, but steering wheel position or pushing on the skirt makes no difference, only direct pressure on the steering wheel.

 

[40Man]

Searched and can't find it. I swear someone had a mini write up or instructions on cool box fan replacement. Can someone please point me in the right direction?

 

[Markuson]

Searched and can't find it. I swear someone had a mini write up or instructions on cool box fan replacement. Can someone please point me in the right direction?

That was my thought too when I did mine...but I couldn’t find such a thread either.

I followed the steps in the service manual...but their direction are NOT always the best.

It might have been easier if my eyes weren’t screwed up...but no matter what, it is a huuuuuuge pain. Right around 120 steps just to dig down to it (screws, brackets, plugs, panels, etc).

My one big mistake mistake can definitely be avoided. Still, it is pretty much an ordeal to dig down to the fan...including one final screw that is impossible to get to without removing the driver’s seat and also using an extremely low-profile screwdriver (as in...one you’d never find at Home Depot).

Run awaaay!

 

[40Man]

That was my thought too when I did mine...but I couldn’t find such a thread either.

I followed the steps in the service manual...but their direction are NOT always the best.

It might have been easier if my eyes weren’t screwed up...but no matter what, it is a huuuuuuge pain. Right around 120 steps just to dig down to it (screws, brackets, plugs, panels, etc).

My one big mistake mistake can definitely be avoided. Still, it is pretty much an ordeal to dig down to the fan...including one final screw that is impossible to get to without removing the driver’s seat and also using an extremely low-profile screwdriver (as in...one you’d never find at Home Depot).

View attachment 1879403 View attachment 1879404 View attachment 1879405

Run awaaay!

Wow. Dealer quoted me $200 with the part (extra $100 if ac needs to be evacuated/refilled). Guess I will leave this one to the dealer...

 

[RET2]

I'd hurry at that price before he wakes up?

 

[Markuson]

Wow. Dealer quoted me $200 with the part (extra $100 if ac needs to be evacuated/refilled). Guess I will leave this one to the dealer...

Man, JUMP on that offer!!!

My guess is they have NO IDEA what is in store for their tech...

 

[RET2]

Make sure he writes it up as "Cool Box" fan, I have the feeling he's thinking of regular fan unit?

 

[40Man]

Make sure he writes it up as "Cool Box" fan, I have the feeling he's thinking of regular fan unit?

No, they know it is the cool box. It is on my quote.

 

[RET2]

In that case I'd buy a couple of lottery tickets since you're on a roll.

 

[VooDoo2]

I've noticed an intermittent rattle right behind my steering wheel when driving down the road. When I push forward pressure on the steering wheel, it stops. Searched and couldn't find any others with this issue. Any idea what I can adjust to make this stop?

Look for this washer/component on your steering column and this little plate. Common issue to have it rattle. There is also one right down near the firewall that can rattle offroad

 

[tominboise]

What's the fix for those loose pieces on the steering shaft?

 

[Markuson]

No, they know it is the cool box. It is on my quote.

Any news on your cool box fix...I’ll be very curious.

 

[40Man]

Any news on your cool box fix...I’ll be very curious.

Dealer ordered the part. Confirmed $200 quote for part+install. They will call me to schedule once they have confirmation of part delivery. They said it was estimated at five days to get in. They did say that if they have to drain and refill the A/C line it will be an additional $100, but he didn't think it would be necessary. Evidently his computer showed two versions of cool box with one requiring a/c line removal to get to the fan. Will update when I get it done. Miss my cold road trip drinks (although it doesn't work when it is cold out, but will be great this summer!)