SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (15 Viewers)

[Orange Hat]

I guess this fits here because I was asked a stupid question today at the outset of a meeting.

Them...”hey Morgan, what is that vehicle you drive?”
Me...caught off guard “huh”
Them...”what is that thing you drive?”
Me...”it’s a Land Cruiser”
Them...”I thought they didn’t make them anymore”
Me...”well, Toyota has never stopped making them but they don’t sell a lot here in the States, mostly sold in places like Africa and Australia”
Them...”oh, so you won it in a lottery”
Me...quizzical look “huh”

Then the meeting started

 

[Markuson]

Dealer ordered the part. Confirmed $200 quote for part+install. They will call me to schedule once they have confirmation of part delivery. They said it was estimated at five days to get in. They did say that if they have to drain and refill the A/C line it will be an additional $100, but he didn't think it would be necessary. Evidently his computer showed two versions of cool box with one requiring a/c line removal to get to the fan. Will update when I get it done. Miss my cold road trip drinks (although it doesn't work when it is cold out, but will be great this summer!)

Wondering if newer models simplified coolbox access. It really did seem silly on mine.

 

[KLF]

There’s an answer & quick solution to this one:

It beeps because it assumes you accidentally failed to close it. Once you close...and re-open it, then it stops assuming it’s accidental and won’t beep.

So...
Do this to avoid actually having to close and re-open:
Get out...and simply push the little rubber plunger/button in the door frame.
As soon as you press this after opening the driver door, it will immediately stop beeping and the door can stay open. Try it!

-<TADAAA!

So I figured out a pattern that causes it to ding. If you open the door just before you shut the engine off, it dings. I don't know why though.

If you shut the engine off, THEN open the door, no dinging.

 

[Markuson]

So I figured out a pattern that causes it to ding. If you open the door just before you shut the engine off, it dings. I don't know why though.

If you shut the engine off, THEN open the door, no dinging.

Need a truck psychoanalyst...

 

[KLF]

Not sure if this qualifies as a SQOD, but here goes.

Need to run some wires through the firewall on the passenger side, specifically a #4 that will be feeding a 12 circuit fuse panel in the rear of the truck, plus several much smaller wires.

I've found the 2 "nipples" in the big grommet for the factory harness, behind the glove box. But for the life of me I can't get that fat wire to pass through. Any tips? Very hard to reach.

 

[Markuson]

If you haven’t already, take the paneling off to the right of the glove box (door sill). It just pops out. The under-glove-box cover pops out too of course...

Pushing the wire through isn’t gonna happen...but maybe you figured that out...

Push a skinny rod (stop by harbor freight and snag a handy screw-together set they sell for cheap...which lets you add various tips or hooks, and make it only as long as you need.

Anyway... Push the rod through from engine bay side til you can grab it from interior (or if it keeps hanging up...push UP and through from the floor area to the right/rear of glove box and into the engine bay on passenger).

Once the rod is in the engine bay...duct tape the heck out of the wire to the rod (preferably a rod with a loop on the end so the rod doesn’t slide out of the tape) and then pull them both back through from the inside.

I actually pulled TWO 1G wires through the driver side this way and it’s not fun. Passenger side should be much easier bc it’s not blocked in the engine bay, and you’re adding just one, much smaller wire.

 

[kevinfoutch]

If you haven’t already, take the paneling off to the right of the glove box (door sill). It just pops out. The u see-side cover pops out too of course...

Pushing the wire through isn’t gonna happen...but maybe you figured that out...

Push a skinny rod (stop by harbor freight and snag a handy screw-together set they sell for cheap...which lets you add various tips or hooks, and make it only as long as you need.

Anyway... Push the rod through from engine bay side til you can grab it from interior (or if it keeps hanging up...push UP and through from the floor area to the right/rear of glove box and into the engine bay on passenger).

Once the rod is in the engine bay...duct tape the heck out of the wire to the rod (preferably a rod with a loop on the end so the rod doesn’t slide out of the tape) and then pull them both through from the inside.

I actually pulled TWO 1G wires through the driver side this way and it’s not fun. Passenger side should be much easier bc it’s not blocked in the engine bay, and you’re doing a much smaller wire.

An old fashioned hanger (like from a dry cleaner) wrapped with a boat load of plumbers Teflon tape will help a ton as well.

 

[TeCKis300]

Not sure if this qualifies as a SQOD, but here goes.

Need to run some wires through the firewall on the passenger side, specifically a #4 that will be feeding a 12 circuit fuse panel in the rear of the truck, plus several much smaller wires.

I've found the 2 "nipples" in the big grommet for the factory harness, behind the glove box. But for the life of me I can't get that fat wire to pass through. Any tips? Very hard to reach.

Electrical fish tape. Lube.

Not kidding about the lube. It works wonders when trying to pass through large gauge cables or wiring harnesses. A dilution of dish soap works well. It'll slip right in. And reduces the risk of tearing the grommet and/or dislocating the grommet.

 

[Markuson]

An old fashioned hanger (like from a dry cleaner) wrapped with a boat load of plumbers Teflon tape will help a ton as well.

True. Sad that traditional wire hangers are getting scarce. Go figure...

 

[KLF]

Ok these are great suggestions, thanks. I ran out of time in the shop tonight, and was getting frustrated. I have an old coat hanger, an electrician fish tape, silicone spray, silicone grease, Teflon tape, and a nifty wire grip thing (works like those old Chinese finger torture games, if you remember those) in my kit now.

I have the door sill trim and the kick panel off (very easy) but I'm stumped with the knee air bag under the glove box. Really want to pull the whole glove box out to make room to work running wires. Those air bags scare me, I'm afraid I'm gonna set the thing off, even though I have the battery unhooked.

@Markuson I can't figure out how you got two #1 wires through there! But I may have to do the same eventually if I upgrade the inverter like I want to.

So many mods, so little time!

 

[Markuson]

Ok these are great suggestions, thanks. I ran out of time in the shop tonight, and was getting frustrated. I have an old coat hanger, an electrician fish tape, silicone spray, silicone grease, Teflon tape, and a nifty wire grip thing (works like those old Chinese finger torture games, if you remember those) in my kit now.

I have the door sill trim and the kick panel off (very easy) but I'm stumped with the knee air bag under the glove box. Really want to pull the whole glove box out to make room to work running wires. Those air bags scare me, I'm afraid I'm gonna set the thing off, even though I have the battery unhooked.

@Markuson I can't figure out how you got two #1 wires through there! But I may have to do the same eventually if I upgrade the inverter like I want to.

So many mods, so little time!

Not sure why you are dealing with the airbags. To route wires to the back, just in through the firewall on passenger...remove right-most panel...door jam panel (bottom of door sill) and run them from the firewall entry right down to the door jam bottom...then back through the pillar...u see the 2nd row door ham bottom...and then back under the edge of the rear panel by the wheel-well bump...then up wherever you want the fuse box.

My main rear fuse box is in the passenger side hole that is basically useless otherwise.

You shouldn’t have to cross paths with any air bags at all.

 

[KLF]

Oh well I left off that I'm also installing the special switch in the center console right next to the ashtray for the Blue Sea ML-ACR. So I need to also run a few #16 wires across behind the glove box, then out the firewall to the engine compartment.

I just like getting stuff out of my way.

 

[mwm4211]

Can someone please tell me what the 'windshield washer icon' is on the bottom right of the climate control screen?

 

[TonyP]

Can someone please tell me what the 'windshield washer icon' is on the bottom right of the climate control screen?

View attachment 1885800

Windshield wiper heater/de-icer.

 

[mwm4211]

Thank you Tony! I was hoping that was the case. On another note, good work on the Troopy. Love those rigs.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

Windshield wiper heater/de-icer.

So what does it heat? The washer holder...wiper blade? Does anyone really use this?

 

[KLF]

So what does it heat? The washer holder...wiper blade? Does anyone really use this?

It heats/defrosts the bottom portion of the windshield (where the wipers are parked) and up along the edge next to the A-pillar on the driver's side, and yes I use it and yes it works. It keeps snow from piling up at the bottom of the windshield and the left edge when driving through a snow storm.

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

It heats/defrosts the bottom portion of the windshield (where the wipers are parked) and up along the edge next to the A-pillar on the driver's side, and yes I use it and yes it works. It keeps snow from piling up at the bottom of the windshield and the left edge when driving through a snow storm.

Cool, thank you!

 

[Markuson]

Cool, thank you!

I think the primary purpose is to free the wiper blade if it becomes encased in ice in the off/resting position...and to avoid ice build up there that could happen with freezing rain, etc.

It isn’t going to de-ice the windshield except to free the arm from that spot & help avoid ice forming around the rubber blade while driving.

So if it’s stuck down there under ice when you start your vehicle, activate the heater before you end up damaging the wiper motor against solid ice. Also means you aren’t having to “ice pick” your blades out & possibly damage/tear them.

 

[tbisaacs]

Has anyone moved the second 12v outlet in the center stack to the rear of the console (like under the climate controls?). It's astonishing that there is no power in the middle.