This sounds about right. It will roll back a little before the ABS does uts think to control the backwards movement.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (5 Viewers)
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This sounds about right. It will roll back a little before the ABS does uts think to control the backwards movement.
This works too!
Allow me to put the S in SQOD today.
I am assuming it is OK to liftt my vehicle with my floor jack, at the front and rear differentials? I am guessing that is the quickest way to swap out wheels..
I am assuming it is OK to liftt my vehicle with my floor jack, at the front and rear differentials? I am guessing that is the quickest way to swap out wheels..
Markuson
SILVER Star
Since this is in the stupid Q thread...
Just gonna mention to be sure you use a couple jack stands once it’s in the air.
With jack stands in front...once you have it high enough from floor jack, lower it to your jack stands.
Since this is in the stupid Q thread...
Just gonna mention to be sure you use a couple jack stands once it’s in the air.
With jack stands in front...once you have it high enough from floor jack, lower it to your jack stands.
Ok. Stupid question 2. What’s the danger of leaving on the jack?
Is it better to jack 1 wheel in the absence of stands? I’ve only ever done 1 corner at a time.
Markuson
SILVER Star
You asked...so here goes!
Use them. You can do it without stands, but if both wheels on one end of the truck, I wouldn’t do it without stands.
Never get under a truck without them (or a wheel...something.
If just swapping a single tire I’ve done it.
-Just always assume the possibility of catastrophic hydrolic failure and don’t crawl under the truck without stands.
-People die. Don’t Roll those dice.
Plus...it both tires are off, it wouldn’t take much side pressure to push the end left or right and then boom.
Jacks stands basically exist because they relieve the jack’s hydrilics from the pressure of your massively heavy rig. Also so that you can put a vehicle entirely on four stands if needed... (fancy way of putting it up on “blocks”).
The other reason is...have you ever tried moving around under a truck with a huge floor jack square in the middle? It’s not only a pain, but it’s also really foolish.
So...jack up as tall as you prefer...extend the jack stand’s post...lower onto jack stands...relieving your jack’s hydrolics down onto them so the stands bear all the weight. If you’re just swapping tires, no reason to remove the jack, but at least take the pressure off of the jack. Then there are no surprises.
Harbor freight has perfectly adequate jack stands for cheap. Grab a set of strong ones and you’re in business.
PS. Another reason for jack stands is...if your jack fails...you won’t be stuck with a truck lying on its belly with two wheel off...and unable to get ANY jack under it to recover. That would truly suck, especially if inside your own garage.
Honestly, jack stands should be standard equipment with floor jacks IMHO.
PPS.
Real life—
—My uncle narrowly escaped almost certain death for breaking the jack stand rule:
-Under his truck...the jack was SLOWLY lowering (leaking fluid). He was grinding away with sparks flying, so was distracted...and luckily he noticed it slowly dropping before he was pinned. Dumb move and he knew it...because he has jack stands, but got in a hurry. He was embarrassed, but alive.
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FinallyGotOne!
SILVER Star
Or Elizabeth could be walking by with her dog...(couldn't resist! Any "The Americans" fans here?)
Hydraulics are for lifting. Not supporting.
My SQOD: Why does my truck ding ding ding when I shut the engine off and open the drivers door? In previous vehicles this was to alert you that you left the key in the ignition. But with no key, what's the point? What is it trying to tell me? I looked in the owner's manual, didn't find anything, but maybe I missed it. If I close the door and open it again, no dinging.
My SQOD: Why does my truck ding ding ding when I shut the engine off and open the drivers door? In previous vehicles this was to alert you that you left the key in the ignition. But with no key, what's the point? What is it trying to tell me? I looked in the owner's manual, didn't find anything, but maybe I missed it. If I close the door and open it again, no dinging.
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I guess I’m...confused. Every OEM tire jack is hydraulic and they never recommend a stand.
If I was doing something other than changing one tire at a time, I’d see the necessity of stands. I’d never get under it on just a lift, not even to grab a lug nur.
But when doing tires, brakes etc I never get under the vehicle. Not my legs, not body, nor anything else. I don’t even out my head under the fender.
Having already broken the nuts loose, I’m 2 minutes without 1 wheel on, and lifting from the diff my other wheel is an inch off the ground. So if the lift fails, I’ve got a single rotor on the ground.
Not sure if I should be getting the Darwin Award, or just have a slightly different risk aversion. Am I missing something?
If I was doing something other than changing one tire at a time, I’d see the necessity of stands. I’d never get under it on just a lift, not even to grab a lug nur.
But when doing tires, brakes etc I never get under the vehicle. Not my legs, not body, nor anything else. I don’t even out my head under the fender.
Having already broken the nuts loose, I’m 2 minutes without 1 wheel on, and lifting from the diff my other wheel is an inch off the ground. So if the lift fails, I’ve got a single rotor on the ground.
Not sure if I should be getting the Darwin Award, or just have a slightly different risk aversion. Am I missing something?
I've never seen a hydraulic OEM jack. Especially not one from Toyota. I assure you that the factory jack in your 200 is NOT hydraulic.
In my opinion, unnecessary risk is unnecessary. I'll use jack stands every time.
Markuson
SILVER Star
There’s an answer & quick solution to this one:
It beeps because it assumes you accidentally failed to close it. Once you close...and re-open it, then it stops assuming it’s accidental and won’t beep.
So...
Do this to avoid actually having to close and re-open:
Get out...and simply push the little rubber plunger/button in the door frame.
As soon as you press this after opening the driver door, it will immediately stop beeping and the door can stay open. Try it!
-<TADAAA!
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Answer/solution/truck’s logic:
It beeps because it assumes you accidentally failed to close it. Once you close...and re-open it, then it stops assuming it’s accidental and won’t beep.
So... Do this to avoid actually having to close and re-open:
Get out...and simply push the little rubber plunger/button in the door frame.
If you simply press this after opening the driver door, it will immediately stop beeping at you and you can leave it open.
To quote Spock: "That's illogical". Something like that.
So I think you're saying the truck is reminding me to choose the door again? Huh?
Yeah part of my routine now is to open the door, automatically reach over and push that plunger to get the beeping to stop. Which brings me to my next question: what is that groaning noise under the dash when i make the truck think the door is closed again? Some damper in the HVAC system resetting?
I always use a jack stand to support the truck even when changing a single tire, but that's because my very old but very beefy floor jack leaks from the piston seal if I leave a load on it. I've tried but I can't find a replacement seal.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I was told the beeping was a left over from keyed cars to remind you to remove the key if you open your door first. They use the same sensors and programming as keyed cars rather than having separate programming for keyed/non.
FinallyGotOne!
SILVER Star
Here's a SQOD: Does anyone sometimes change only oil and not the filter? Every vehicle I've owned seems to spec oil refill amounts w/ and w/o a filter change. Does anyone do this? Has anyone ever analyzed their filter after a change to determine how much capacity remains?
Now that I have my Fumoto valve, I can change that oil in no time...but I still need to remove skid plates to get to the fancy new Jowett Billet Filter Cap and the filter...I wonder if I really need to every time???
Now that I have my Fumoto valve, I can change that oil in no time...but I still need to remove skid plates to get to the fancy new Jowett Billet Filter Cap and the filter...I wonder if I really need to every time???
RET2
SILVER Star
Whose skid plates?
I change only the oil every 5k and the filter every 10k fwiw. I have the fumoto valves and makes the oil-only option super easy. Also have the same filter cap as you, and yep, kinda annoying to have to remove the ARB skids each time but I use the time to clean out any junk that might have accumulated.
Edit - I use Toyotas 0W-20 synthetic which can obviously go longer than 5k intervals but I figure it's an ounce of prevention kinda thing. Plus it forces me to inspect more items more frequently, so I don't mind the extra effort that could be avoided.
Edit #2 - I don't recall the volume required on oil only changes, but iirc the full change, including filter, requires 7.4 quarts.
