LC200 Rear (Interior) Exit Switch Mod

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Joined
Dec 23, 2003
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576
Location
Utah
Rear Exit Switch Mod

The 200 Series LC doesn’t have a way to exit out of the back hatch if you happen to be back there. The Lexus folks don’t have this issue as they have a power rear hatch that can be opened via the fob. After discussing with my buddies Dave and Kurt, I figured this was a real easy fix, and it is.

Disclaimer – First and foremost, this may not be for everyone so users beware; there is an inherent danger of having a power switch on the rear hatch that could potentially be opened by a child while the vehicle is motion, if of course your child is unrestrained. We don’t have kids and my dog isn’t that smart. Use at your own risk.

I bought the momentary switch on Amazon. I like the design because the actual button is flush with its surround, so it’s less likely to be accidentally bumped. It’s fairly small too. $7.25 each on Amazon.com

I also purchased this “flip up” safety cover as an extra measure…but once I got it I thought it looked a bit dorky and ended up not using it. $5.26 each on Amazon.com

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Get started....

1. Remove the rear power handle on the exterior of your hatch with a T30 TorX.

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2. Once removed, simply unplug the harness from its back.

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3. If you look inside, you’ll see the harness is clipped in to the inside framework of the hatch. I stuck a long screw driver in there and released that white clip so that I had more slack in the harness with it being released. This is a little bit of a bugger to snap back in when you’re done, fyi.

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4. Remove the small access panel from the inside of your hatch (I taped my mini-driver to prevent scratching)

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5. If you released the harness from the white plug in step 3, then fish the harness down through this small hatch opening as it gives you more room to work with.

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6. The exterior hatch switch has three wires. A blue, a white/black, and another blue. There are actually two buttons on that exterior switch. The two you want to play with are the white/black in the middle, and the blue on the right if you were looking at the switch from the back. When these two connect, it activates the opener.

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7. I removed some of wire sheathing, marked these wires, and soldered in two leads. It is a little awkward soldering. I taped them all up and tested the switch for operation, it worked, so fished the plug back up to it's original location, reinstalled the exterior switch, and wired up the new leads to the new switch.

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8. I used a 5/8 UniBit and drilled a hole in the center of the small access panel. I figured this was much easier to replace than the interior hatch surround if I ever needed to. You can obviously mount yours where ever you wish.

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9. Done. Took about 40 mins.

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Johnny
 
Nice job. Thank you for the detailed write-up :clap:
 
Very nice.

And here's a little known fact. The rear hatch lock mechanism actually has a small bit of paracord attached to the locking lever. You can route the paracord through a small hole in the access panel location (where you drilled your hole for the switch) and tie a knot so it doesn't fall behind the plastic. This will allow for the manual unlocking of the hatch (instead of electrical).

It is useless in my case though, because I have a tire carrier. :D
 
Rear Exit Switch Mod

The 200 Series LC doesn’t have a way to exit out of the back hatch if you happen to be back there. The Lexus folks don’t have this issue as they have a power rear hatch that can be opened via the fob. After discussing with my buddies Dave and Kurt, I figured this was a real easy fix, and it is.

Disclaimer – First and foremost, this may not be for everyone so users beware; there is an inherent danger of having a power switch on the rear hatch that could potentially be opened by a child while the vehicle is motion, if of course your child is unrestrained. We don’t have kids and my dog isn’t that smart. Use at your own risk.

I bought the momentary switch on Amazon. I like the design because the actual button is flush with its surround, so it’s less likely to be accidentally bumped. It’s fairly small too. $7.25 each on Amazon.com

I also purchased this “flip up” safety cover as an extra measure…but once I got it I thought it looked a bit dorky and ended up not using it. $5.26 each on Amazon.com

RES-5.jpg




Get started....

1. Remove the rear power handle on the exterior of your hatch with a T30 TorX.

RES.jpg


2. Once removed, simply unplug the harness from its back.

RES-2.jpg


3. If you look inside, you’ll see the harness is clipped in to the inside framework of the hatch. I stuck a long screw driver in there and released that white clip so that I had more slack in the harness with it being released. This is a little bit of a bugger to snap back in when you’re done, fyi.

RES-8.jpg


RES-3.jpg


4. Remove the small access panel from the inside of your hatch (I taped my mini-driver to prevent scratching)

RES-7.jpg


5. If you released the harness from the white plug in step 3, then fish the harness down through this small hatch opening as it gives you more room to work with.

RES-9.jpg


6. The exterior hatch switch has three wires. A blue, a white/black, and another blue. There are actually two buttons on that exterior switch. The two you want to play with are the white/black in the middle, and the blue on the right if you were looking at the switch from the back. When these two connect, it activates the opener.

RES-4.jpg


7. I removed some of wire sheathing, marked these wires, and soldered in two leads. It is a little awkward soldering. I taped them all up and tested the switch for operation, it worked, so fished the plug back up to it's original location, reinstalled the exterior switch, and wired up the new leads to the new switch.

RES-10.jpg


RES-11.jpg


8. I used a 5/8 UniBit and drilled a hole in the center of the small access panel. I figured this was much easier to replace than the interior hatch surround if I ever needed to. You can obviously mount yours where ever you wish.

RES-12.jpg


9. Done. Took about 40 mins.

RES-13.jpg


RES-14.jpg




Johnny
did you saw my bitching clip?

 
Very nice.

And here's a little known fact. The rear hatch lock mechanism actually has a small bit of paracord attached to the locking lever. You can route the paracord through a small hole in the access panel location (where you drilled your hole for the switch) and tie a knot so it doesn't fall behind the plastic. This will allow for the manual unlocking of the hatch (instead of electrical).

It is useless in my case though, because I have a tire carrier. :D
@xkennx made a way to unlatch the carrier and with a gas strut installed that thing will fly open, then all you gotta do is geronimo!
 
Got a link?
 
Nice write up, a mod I have been considering for some time. Even picked up a Toyota "glass" switch for the purpose.

I plan to build a factory style spare tire carrier using this feature. Those carriers use a latch system just like regular doors.... and since the rear hatch is just like an electronic door latch, it should transfer over to the carrier.... just push a button to release.
 
When Im back at the office I will see if I have some of my build pics of the project. I made some 30 of these armored TLC's with factory rear carriers and another 20 where I had to add carriers to the TLC. Because with the end user I had to use parts they could re-order though the dealer in different countries I tried to use TOYO parts.

The shock on the carrier is actually a shock from the upper rear tail gate. The release cable is a hood release handle with cable which I wired into the original lock and can into the cabin under the bumper.

In the ME our G and GL spec TLC 200 come with a factory rear tail gate button. That is because we have inward facing bench seats there instead of forward facing seats. I would have used the OEM switch but because I have the armored bulkhead it would have not been in a place you could reach so I just added a small push-button.

Dropbox - Emergency Exit - TLC 200.pdf

Is a link to my instruction manual to get out of the TLC.
 
oh my! I actually never noticed this!!! I just recently got rid of t=my LX570 (wife was using as a daily driver) I have my old 100 series. wow that is crazy.
 
In the ME our G and GL spec TLC 200 come with a factory rear tail gate button. That is because we have inward facing bench seats there instead of forward facing seats. I would have used the OEM switch but because I have the armored bulkhead it would have not been in a place you could reach so I just added a small push-button.

I'd love to see a pic of the factory switch and location if you can drum one up!
 
Nice, I like that switch. Curious to see specifically where that is mounted. Guess if I wanted to be super-oem-anal, I could go with that switch.
 
The switch is part # 84930-28150 and it appears to be a good number in the US, but I have not tried ordering. The switch is large and I think it mounts right where Johnny placed his... my Huskies and kidnapping victims would have the potential to pop the hatch open pretty easily with it there... and I don't need that hassle. The rear glass switch from a Toyota Matrix is a regular sized unit, but needs to find a home somewhere in there.
 
While I was in Switzerland this summer, I stopped by and looked at a new 200 diesel on the lot. It had a separate button in the rear hatch only. It was the button Brian Jowett posted. When pushed, it activated an exposed arm and actuator that opened and closed the top rear hatch.

I took pics and a quick video. I will try to find and post. Anyone else familiar with it?
 
Switch arrived (thank Beno). The 84930-28150 superceded to a new number (don't have that handy) but I wasn't able to get either of them through my regional Toyota. I could order them from my Japan import stuff but Beno could not only get them but had them to me in a few days for a few dollars more, worth it.

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It's a 4 pin setup. I'm presuming it is in fact lighted but I haven't tested anything on it yet.
 
Did this switch mod last week before a trip to Cali. Really wish I had done it sooner. I spent most of July in Alaska with about half of those night sin the back of truck. Climbing out the back is far easier for my old knees than squeezing out the side door. Fortunately for me Wildyoats is a friend so he did most of the work in his garage.
 
Finally getting around to mounting and wiring my switch. I mounted in the access panel which was the factory location on those equipped with the switch (parallel seat models and perhaps others). I found the OE part number for switch equipped panel but it looks to be NLA (Sunday here so I didn't give it a huge effort).

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I had an OE Toyota plug connector and terminals here that fit too :cool:. The switch has 4 terminals, 2 for the operation of the latch and the other two are in fact for illumination. I may wire those up before I button it back up completely.

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I finished it off by adding a factory grab handle, the OE setup would have had a similar handle in this location.

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Factory diagram fwiw

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I'll be adding a bit more detailed write up with part numbers in my build thread shortly: Project Fauxverlander 200 Series Land Cruiser Build Thread
 
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