Spike. 1965 FJ45 LWB Survivor from an Arizona hill side

[Wadesters]

cross post

 

[KSDaddio]

Are you talking about the steering arm nut removal? If so you will need heat and the good nut removal tool not the cheap auto zone ones. Let me know if you need a picture.

You indicated…”. Center arm proved to be challenging.”
Can you elaborate on the difficulty you had and the solution you used to remove?
Sorry I was not more specific.

 

[Wadesters]

I know I used a standard center arm rebuild kit. I cannot remember a specific difficulty in rebuilding it. It was almost a year ago.

 

[Wadesters]

cross post

 

[Living in the Past]

People remove just the front bib and pull the power train. Three speed is even easier that a four speed. Column shift transmission and dash shifted transfer case should even have to pull the tunnel cover. Just tie shift rods off to the side. Just be careful with the transfer case vacuum diagram. Has the two ports for vacuum pointed to the out side. Just take it easy and watch for anything hanging up. Being careful and go slow is the key to successfully getting it out.make sure everything is disconnected. Wire for the vacuum shift. Reverse light if it has one. Speedometer and hand brake cables. Everything else should be visible in the engine bay.

 

[KSDaddio]

I know I used a sta beard center arm rebuild kit. I cannot remember a specific difficulty in rebuilding it. It was almost a yea ago.

Ok thanks. No problems removing from the mount riveted to frame that you remember?

 

[Wadesters]

cross post

 

[Wadesters]

Ok thanks. No problems removing from the mount riveted to frame that you remember?

No, I do not remember a problem removing it

 

[Wadesters]

"Spike" FJ45 LPB Restoration Compete ** A general shout out to everyone on this board for the help!
Finally complete and tested after 18 months. I could not have done it without a lot of people on this board having patience with me and answering all my questions. Honorable mention to: @cppilot; @sofj45; @IndygbdParts for this restoration came from trusted vendors and all over the world: Pistons from Pakistan, dome light lens from Indonesia, 4wd switch from Egypt, and the list goes on. OEM Toyota whenever possible. All parts sand blasted and powder coated, new hardware, painted piece by piece. F engine, 3-speed transmission, transfer case, axles, brakes all rebuilt. Can't forget the beautiful @Birdhead restored steering wheel. I chose to keep it all original except for Old Man Emu suspension, gray seat covers, and Nebula paint, (personal preferences). Sadly the previous owner who I stayed in contact with, passed away and did not see it completed. However, his daughter kept in touch and said he would be very happy. I am sure I will keep "tinkering' with it but really cannot find much else to do. I have shown it to most everyone I know so now I am afraid it will just sit. Probably will sell at some point. My motivation is always to find and restore. Once finished I am looking for the next project. Again, THANKS to everyone! Chris Wade.. *** before, during, and after pictures here: 1965 FJ45 Arizona / Montana - Chris Wade - https://chriswade.smugmug.com/FJ45

 

[aztoyman]

AMAZING job! Thanks for posting.

 

[cruisermatt]

Thank you for all the detailed pictures on your site. Until now that is best refence I have seen for the underside of a 45 cab - that may give me the confidence to tackle rebuilding my cab myself. So thank you for that. What did you use for body mounts?

 

[Wadesters]

I made body mounts using a Daystar early FJ40 kit and also a later one. I may have extras when you get to that point.

 

[wngrog]

Superb.

 

[Wadesters]

Kudos from @wngrog ..... now I am really felling good about it. Many thanks

The initial plan was to make it a Patina build as it did not have any rust. However the engine needed rebuilt so I struggled putting a freshly rebuilt engine into the 50+ weathered frame. So I was going to address the front part of the frame. Then I decided it would look really funny the front part of the frame in renewed shape and the rear old looking. So I sand blasted and powder coated the frame and added new suspension. Then I was going to put the body back on the frame. It had no rust but the dash had been cut out for a radio and doors cut out for speakers . Once those areas were repaired I had a great looking Patina outside and the patches for the radio and speakers. I was going to try and blend in Patina in those areas. The more I looked at it I decided not to put the Patina body back on the restored frame. At that point it became a full frame off restoration.

 

[wngrog]

You made the right call (except for the drum brakes )

Kidding. Great save.

 

[Wadesters]

You are right on the drum brakes. I have bled system multiple times. I went from 4 pumps for brakes to 3, to 2, still have 1 1/2 but hopefully will eventually clear out.

 

[wngrog]

You are right on the drum brakes. I have bled system multiple times. I went from 4 pumps for brakes to 3, to 2, still have 1 1/2 but hopefully will eventually clear out.

Absolute nightmare. Tighten them until the truck barely rolls and that will get you to 1

 

[45Kevin]

Great looking truck.

Re. the brakes. Proper adjustment is crucial.

 

[NOSAJ]

That was my case with the brakes also. I fought them until I thought surely they would be too tight

 

[sofj45]

if you go four wheel disc pull the residual valve out of that master which makes it identical to the clutch other than thread size and four wheel disc brakes work good. no need to do a booster or anything, did it on the green 45.
my red one has the stock drums and stops the same with them adjusted correctly. the disc is a little easier to adjust.