alia176
SILVER Star
Crap, it's still in the package. Let me go home and look at it closely.
Sony XAV-AX100 Install w/ Backup Cam (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter baggar11
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Crap, it's still in the package. Let me go home and look at it closely.
alia176
SILVER Star
Here's what I bought. I don't see an USB port but there's an USB cord in the package.
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Ahhh okay I was confused I’ve never used apple car play before and wasn’t exactly sure how it works. My buddy has a head unit where his phone is detected right away as soon as he hops in the car and will play the music from his iphone so that’s all I really cared about. I guess I don’t mind hooking up my phone to access maps and all those other apps.
Yep that’s what I’ve got! Just need to order the Rockford fosgate speakers and the metra harness now!
Wireless carplay actually uses both bluetooth and a local WiFi hotspot created by the head unit. The intial connection uses bluetooth but video/audio/data is transmitted over WiFi. Only a few high-end aftermarket units support wireless carplay (Pioneer and Alpine) although I’m sure more will be coming out soon.
MoJ
Moderator
USB is for charging and Apple CarPlay or the Android equivalent. If the USB port is not on the head unit, it connects via a dongle from the back of the unit. In that case you can utilize one of the switch blanks below the radio. All other features, such as Bluetooth calls and music, work wirelessly. In other words, if CarPlay isn’t important to you, no need for the USB port.
Wireless CarPlay is available on other makes/models, generally at a substantial premium.
After a year with CarPlay I wouldn’t buy a head unit without it.
Wireless CarPlay is available on other makes/models, generally at a substantial premium.
After a year with CarPlay I wouldn’t buy a head unit without it.
I believe the cheapest option currently for wireless Apple CarPlay is the Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX which can be had for between $500-550. I bought an open box Sony XAV-AX3000 yesterday at Best Buy for my 80 series but may take it back for the Pioneer. Either way, once you got CarPlay you never go back ,err something like that.
alia176
SILVER Star
Just finished going through your write-up, looks great!
I just got the Sony XAV-AX200 and the same back up camera as OP. Working on the install today and finishing it up tomorrow. The hardest thing to do was run the backup camera. lol.
The fit around the radio could be tighter but carplay is fantastic. The AX200 (and maybe the AX100 can't remember) can toggle 3 cameras which felt like something I might want to do. It also has the CD/DVD drive because I still like CD's sometimes.
The oldest car in my fleet has the nicest radio of them all.
The fit around the radio could be tighter but carplay is fantastic. The AX200 (and maybe the AX100 can't remember) can toggle 3 cameras which felt like something I might want to do. It also has the CD/DVD drive because I still like CD's sometimes.
The oldest car in my fleet has the nicest radio of them all.
Did you end up ordering the other USB outlet?
Not yet but I plan to do that. The radio came with an extension that ends with a USB plug. It's really thick and shielded.
As said before in other threads - FOUR screws on the right side of the surround. 2 in the "cup holder slot" that you have to pop out by pulling down and immediately breaking the tabs. Then pull out the ashtray and find the other two screws.
I undid all the buttons along the top row and moved my shifter into LO to get more room.
Car Play is fantastic.
This was the hardest part - Thanks to OP, I was able to figure out the right wires, but his 80 is older than mine. So I had an extra short adapter in the middle. Off that short "adapter" ran a green black wire that went under the carpet across to the RH side of the rear end. Don't know what it was for...didn't care. The adapter changed the wire colors to RED and WHITE for the reverse light power and ground. Red HOT, White GROUND. I popped them out with a shiv and tested before I did ANYTHING.
Once I knew I had the right wires, I started the process of actually feeding the wires through.
I undid all the buttons along the top row and moved my shifter into LO to get more room.
Car Play is fantastic.
This was the hardest part - Thanks to OP, I was able to figure out the right wires, but his 80 is older than mine. So I had an extra short adapter in the middle. Off that short "adapter" ran a green black wire that went under the carpet across to the RH side of the rear end. Don't know what it was for...didn't care. The adapter changed the wire colors to RED and WHITE for the reverse light power and ground. Red HOT, White GROUND. I popped them out with a shiv and tested before I did ANYTHING.
Once I knew I had the right wires, I started the process of actually feeding the wires through.
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Underneath the JACK in the LH rear panel I saw there was a grommet with a drain. I was able to coerce it out and run my wires through it without too much issue. I recommend lowering the spare tire and getting it out of the way for the rest of my images.
I found another grommet that keeps the wires that go to the license plate lights and the "snorkel" that connects to the tail gate. Mine was SPLIT from the center hole on one side. I made it bigger in the center to accommodate the extra wires I was going to push through it. Then I put some lube on it (Spit) and worked it back into place. You'll only see this with the spare out of the way.
I got shy trying to push the fat head of the RCA cable through that little rubber snorkel. There is a plastic plug to the right of it, I hollowed out the middle and plan to go back with some silicon to seal it back up. I actually don't imagine it causes any harm to be left with a gaping hole...but I wanna isolate the wire better. I wasn't excited about this solution, but I also didn't want to cut the weatherstripping.
When I decided to do the splices needed for powering the camera, I decided to do what I believe @LINUS suggested. I popped out the pin, stripped away some of the jacket. Soldered on the new wire, coated it with some dielectric and heat shrink-ed it down.
I then went one more step to ensure these plugs don't get moisture in them or vibrate loose. I found some heat shrink that fit over and sealed them up.
Not pictured - I zip tied the bundle together and then zip tied that to the middle of the opening in the tailgate that allows you to get to the tail-light shroud.
I found another grommet that keeps the wires that go to the license plate lights and the "snorkel" that connects to the tail gate. Mine was SPLIT from the center hole on one side. I made it bigger in the center to accommodate the extra wires I was going to push through it. Then I put some lube on it (Spit) and worked it back into place. You'll only see this with the spare out of the way.
I got shy trying to push the fat head of the RCA cable through that little rubber snorkel. There is a plastic plug to the right of it, I hollowed out the middle and plan to go back with some silicon to seal it back up. I actually don't imagine it causes any harm to be left with a gaping hole...but I wanna isolate the wire better. I wasn't excited about this solution, but I also didn't want to cut the weatherstripping.
When I decided to do the splices needed for powering the camera, I decided to do what I believe @LINUS suggested. I popped out the pin, stripped away some of the jacket. Soldered on the new wire, coated it with some dielectric and heat shrink-ed it down.
I then went one more step to ensure these plugs don't get moisture in them or vibrate loose. I found some heat shrink that fit over and sealed them up.
Not pictured - I zip tied the bundle together and then zip tied that to the middle of the opening in the tailgate that allows you to get to the tail-light shroud.
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Not pictured - The camera wire had a trigger wire chaser that I soldered to the metra adapter harness that OP posted. Then I ran it down the LH side of the truck in the cable chase. When I got the rear wheel well I pushed it gently under the rear panel and then pulled it over the filler nozzle, then down below/behind the jack. The whole time I did this I kept thinking "Will this be in the way in the future?" I soldered the other end of that red wire chaser to the positive power side of the reverse light power that came into the tailgate. This meant that I was soldering 3 wires together for positive and two for negative (ground). You could likely just ground the negatives, but for some reason that didn't make my camera trigger right.
I also ended up buying a spool of "Speaker" style wire to pull from the LH rear through. What came with the camera was too short and very thin (20 guage?) I was worried it would shear off while pulling on it.
I also found that the backup camera was sensitive to polarity. My vision didn't notice that I had soldered a RED/BLACK trace to a RED wire. That was a real head scratcher for a moment.
I also ended up buying a spool of "Speaker" style wire to pull from the LH rear through. What came with the camera was too short and very thin (20 guage?) I was worried it would shear off while pulling on it.
I also found that the backup camera was sensitive to polarity. My vision didn't notice that I had soldered a RED/BLACK trace to a RED wire. That was a real head scratcher for a moment.
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I’m not sure where to throw this link but it’s the best information I have found on stereo information on a 80. 96/97 years. https://www.scosche.com/media/guides/ta671.pdf
If you have the XAV-AX200, download and install the latest firmware update. It allows you to change the illumination color on the buttons.
- Thread starter
- #100
My post details the process only for the Sony AX100 unit. Other makes/models may have something similar.
