Solid axle swap on 100 (1 Viewer)

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If you have a few more weeks (5?), I'll give you mine. 2.5" Boras (you need 5" total), just going to a custom axle instead (needed to stop the bleeding last year, funds replenished now haha). FWIW they've been great, no issues at all if you choose to get a set made to speed up the timeline.
@saucebox that would be great! I think that works just fine with my timeline. We start the SAS in 3 weeks, so we'll probably still be doing finishing touches by week 5.

I'll probably go the custom axle route eventually.
 
@saucebox that would be great! I think that works just fine with my timeline. We start the SAS in 3 weeks, so we'll probably still be doing finishing touches by week 5.

I'll probably go the custom axle route eventually.

Right on—my order is in and paid for, so as soon as I have it I'll begin disassembly and have them ready for you
 
One more question for those that have done this swap... how did you link the 80 steering box to the 100 steering shaft? Is it pretty straightforward or is there fabrication/specific parts needed? Will the 100 hoses reach the box and if not, what did you do for hoses? We haven't dug in yet, so not sure what we'll find once we start removing components. *I have an 80 box w/ pitman arm.

This may have already been addressed, but most of these SAS threads are pretty long.
 
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One more question for those that have done this swap... how did you link the 80 steering box to the 100 steering shaft? Is it pretty straightforward or is there fabrication/specific parts needed? Will the 100 hoses reach the box and if not, what did you do for hoses? We haven't dug in yet, so not sure what we'll find once we start removing components. *I have an 80 box w/ pitman arm.

This may have already been addressed, but most of these SAS threads are pretty long.

Pile of 16hr days here lately, sorry for the delay.

I basically grafted a shaft from the 80 (steering box side) and the 100 shaft (firewall side). IIRC it involved cutting the 80 shaft down slightly to fit, and driving the 100 shaft out of the bottom of the u-joint assembly. Pound the 80 shaft in its place, weld the hell out of it, and it's good to go. There is just enough room for it to fit, but if you have headers it'll ocasionally clink on one of the tubes. An annoying fix I haven't taken care of yet (my steering ujoints may be a little sloppy).

Start:
IMG_1594.jpeg


End:
IMG_1624.jpeg



As for the hydraulic section—I made two -6AN hoses. JEGS and others sell adapters that thread into the steering box ports to convert.

It's overkill to make a hose for the low pressure side (factory 80 is just a rubber hose, NBD), but making a second gives me the ability to swap hoses on a trail should I ever need a fix on the high pressure side. At least that was the thinking at the time, sort of sounds unlikely now.

The high pressure side...I used the factory high pressure line (drops down along the RHS frame rail and then across the factory crossmember your steering rack sits in) and just stopped by a hydraulic shop to find enough fittings to convert it to -6AN. Then the hose I made. Since I (and soon you) no longer have the factory crossmember, I just zip tied the steering hoses to the Panhard brace. TT's SAS kit doesn't include the brace itself, but it's pretty trivial to DIY a RHS bracket and find a pipe. I decided to run the brace so I had a place to zip tie lines—annoying that our power steering is on the wrong side.

Best picture I have (and it's sort of terrible for showing off what I'm talking about, but look for the power steering filter):
IMG_1738.jpeg


Also: the power steering filter was a dumb idea. Nothing I ever did to it would stop a slow leak. It's since been removed.

Steering box adapters: Performance Steering Components PSC SF06: Adapter Fitting [-6 AN to 16mm x 1.5 IF] - JEGS High Performance - https://www.jegs.com/i/Performance-Steering-Components-PSC/705/SF06/10002/-1 and Performance Steering Components PSC SF07: Adapter Fitting [-6 AN to 17mm x 1.5 IF] - JEGS High Performance - https://www.jegs.com/i/Performance-Steering-Components-PSC/705/SF07/10002/-1, one of each.

1644464572764.png
 
Pile of 16hr days here lately, sorry for the delay.

I basically grafted a shaft from the 80 (steering box side) and the 100 shaft (firewall side). IIRC it involved cutting the 80 shaft down slightly to fit, and driving the 100 shaft out of the bottom of the u-joint assembly. Pound the 80 shaft in its place, weld the hell out of it, and it's good to go. There is just enough room for it to fit, but if you have headers it'll ocasionally clink on one of the tubes. An annoying fix I haven't taken care of yet (my steering ujoints may be a little sloppy).

Start:
View attachment 2920181

End:
View attachment 2920182


As for the hydraulic section—I made two -6AN hoses. JEGS and others sell adapters that thread into the steering box ports to convert.

It's overkill to make a hose for the low pressure side (factory 80 is just a rubber hose, NBD), but making a second gives me the ability to swap hoses on a trail should I ever need a fix on the high pressure side. At least that was the thinking at the time, sort of sounds unlikely now.

The high pressure side...I used the factory high pressure line (drops down along the RHS frame rail and then across the factory crossmember your steering rack sits in) and just stopped by a hydraulic shop to find enough fittings to convert it to -6AN. Then the hose I made. Since I (and soon you) no longer have the factory crossmember, I just zip tied the steering hoses to the Panhard brace. TT's SAS kit doesn't include the brace itself, but it's pretty trivial to DIY a RHS bracket and find a pipe. I decided to run the brace so I had a place to zip tie lines—annoying that our power steering is on the wrong side.

Best picture I have (and it's sort of terrible for showing off what I'm talking about, but look for the power steering filter):
View attachment 2920188

Also: the power steering filter was a dumb idea. Nothing I ever did to it would stop a slow leak. It's since been removed.

Steering box adapters: Performance Steering Components PSC SF06: Adapter Fitting [-6 AN to 16mm x 1.5 IF] - JEGS High Performance - https://www.jegs.com/i/Performance-Steering-Components-PSC/705/SF06/10002/-1 and Performance Steering Components PSC SF07: Adapter Fitting [-6 AN to 17mm x 1.5 IF] - JEGS High Performance - https://www.jegs.com/i/Performance-Steering-Components-PSC/705/SF07/10002/-1, one of each.

View attachment 2920189
This is helpful info @saucebox. I guess I'll worry about the lines once the axle is under the truck. In the meantime, it looks like I need to source an 80 steering shaft!
 
Here are the parts I used to build my steering shaft, all Borgenson stuff. I had a bunch of parts for a tacoma SAS laying around, which included Trailgear's tacoma steering shaft kit and power steering lines. The shaft kit had sloppy u-joints out of the box, so I found a thread with borgenson part numbers. I also added a 1" ID spherical bearing on my shock tower because the shaft coming from the column is loose so it needs to be hard mounted (pic).As for the power steering lines, the kit runs the lines from the 2uz pump to the box just fine, only thing is you cant run your idle/pressure vacuum control switch. I cut the factory banjo line a few inches coming off the pump and I'm welding an AN fitting to it, to put that vacuum switch back.
20220210_083936.jpg


450024 or a 450036 - QTY1 - 24" long or 36" long telescoping DD Shaft
014925 - 11/16"-36 X 3/4"DD U.J.
015225 - 11/16"-36 X 1"DD U.J.
 
Here are the parts I used to build my steering shaft, all Borgenson stuff. I had a bunch of parts for a tacoma SAS laying around, which included Trailgear's tacoma steering shaft kit and power steering lines. The shaft kit had sloppy u-joints out of the box, so I found a thread with borgenson part numbers. I also added a 1" ID spherical bearing on my shock tower because the shaft coming from the column is loose so it needs to be hard mounted (pic).As for the power steering lines, the kit runs the lines from the 2uz pump to the box just fine, only thing is you cant run your idle/pressure vacuum control switch. I cut the factory banjo line a few inches coming off the pump and I'm welding an AN fitting to it, to put that vacuum switch back.View attachment 2920508

450024 or a 450036 - QTY1 - 24" long or 36" long telescoping DD Shaft
014925 - 11/16"-36 X 3/4"DD U.J.
015225 - 11/16"-36 X 1"DD U.J.
I've been following you on instagram for about a year. Did you do a build thread on mud?
 
I've been following you on instagram for about a year. Did you do a build thread on mud?
Not at the moment, I normally just lurk around, not much of a poster. Might consider making one this summer, as the rig is going through some major body modifications that may interest quite a few 😉. If anything I'll keep posted on this thread or you can msg me with any questions.
 
Not at the moment, I normally just lurk around, not much of a poster. Might consider making one this summer, as the rig is going through some major body modifications that may interest quite a few 😉. If anything I'll keep posted on this thread or you can msg me with any questions.
100 UTE!?
 

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