I bought a 105 series. Much easier,oh bugger you guys are not aloud to have them.
Solid axle swap on 100 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter AndersonDin
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- 100 series 80series
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nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
1fz no thanks
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
But that is only the earlier years. Some of the petrol versions did come with the 2uz but most came with diesels. Just depends on where it was coming from.
I have decided to deploy some capital to a shop or person that is capable of doing the SAS. I realize the labor is going to be extensive but I don't have the time nor tools required for such a job in my 2006 LC ... I will have to do the AHC delete at the same time and also add a locker/gears to the rear third member. Am I smoking crack to think I could possibly get this done for 12K not including wheels or tires? This is going to be an overland, trail rig mostly and not so much a daily driver.
Where can I take it? Who should I talk to? I know Slee has done one before ... so that is an option. Did this kit ever get finished? I could buy that and then try and find a place that can do it including the rear third member gearing and ARB install. Thoughts?
Where can I take it? Who should I talk to? I know Slee has done one before ... so that is an option. Did this kit ever get finished? I could buy that and then try and find a place that can do it including the rear third member gearing and ARB install. Thoughts?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
@peacesells63 is also in AZ and SASd his 100, so would be a good person to talk to. Joe Giuliano at GMG Fab in Tempe has probably SAS’d more Toyotas in AZ than anybody. I’m sure with a $3k Trail Tailor kit + $1500 front 80 axle with radius arms etc., his shop could do it for you. Lockers + regear = the infamous Zuk in Chandler.
I'm slightly confused.
There's a newish member here with LHD 105, so is it out of he question to find one of those as either a donor vehicle or a base vehicle to modify at will?
Also: I'm from New Zealand so we don't know all your ways.. so what the heck is SAS please!
EDIT> It just went thud. SAS = solid axle swap?
There's a newish member here with LHD 105, so is it out of he question to find one of those as either a donor vehicle or a base vehicle to modify at will?
Also: I'm from New Zealand so we don't know all your ways.. so what the heck is SAS please!
EDIT> It just went thud. SAS = solid axle swap?
I can give you some ideas.
Do you know what tire size, lift height, suspension type and travel you are looking for? looking to retain abs? what axle do you want to run? full time or part time 4wd? willing to trim sheet metal? Re-gearing at the same time?
I have solid axle swapped probably 6 mini trucks, but these are a lot more work. I have about 24 hours in the frame prep alone, where a mini truck is about 4. Overall, i'm somewhere around 250 hours so far, and the trucks is still not done. But, thats a 3 link front on coilovers, trans crossmember, motor mounts, shock towers, frame plates, steering, hydro assist, and making most of my brackets. I also know a lot about link geometry, so I set the suspension up proper for good road manners and stability (much better than radius arm) and a full 14" of travel. I'm around 4" of lift and 6" of uptravel at ride height on 37's.
A radius arm setup would take something like 180-200 hours.
I spent a lot of hours researching and sourcing parts, so there that too. I didn't count since I did 95% during free time at work.
Price wise, my diamond front axle was somewhere around $7k, non ABS and I paid less than retail for most parts. After that you have exhaust, driveshaft, steering box, sector shaft upgrade, PS pump, lines, steering shaft and linkage,, link or radius arm parts, brackets, shocks/springs of choice, sway bar, etc...
For a radius arm setup with an 80 axle, you'll be looking at something like 10-12k in parts and 9-15k in labor from a shop - tires and wheels not included. For a setup like mine, probably 35-40k from a shop. Plus, 2k for a locked rear 3rd.
I'm slightly confused.
There's a newish member here with LHD 105, so is it out of he question to find one of those as either a donor vehicle or a base vehicle to modify at will?
Also: I'm from New Zealand so we don't know all your ways.. so what the heck is SAS please!
EDIT> It just went thud. SAS = solid axle swap?
A 105 is essentially a 100 body on an 80 chassis. I didn't want that. I don't even want the 80 suspension that's under my 80. For me, the only way a solid axle swap would be worth it is if the truck drives better and is more capable than an older truck. Plus, we can't legally import 105's for a few more years.
Not that I'm remotely serious about a SAS, but is it possible to SAS a 100 and not turn it into a "monster truck" so to speak or is the shape of the 100 frame the factor that necessitates 4"+ of lift? I'd be satisfied with a 2" of lift and 33-35" tires. (basically a modestly built 105)
Not if you want to retain uptravel. I moved the engine/trans up about an inch and notched the frame on the passenger side for drag link and panhard clearance. A combo of the frame and oil pan shape makes it tough.
Down travel is the problem with 100 ifs, uptravel is the problem with a solid axle swap.
If you are good with 33’s or 35’s, not a whole lot of reason to do a solid axle though. Unless you just really want a solid axle.
My lx is huge, and it’s a lower than most swapped 100’s.
Makes perfect sense and that's the conclusion I'd reached from following along with SAS threads. Awesome rig, btw!
Now let's talk about an 80 with a 2UZ swap...
ThanksMakes perfect sense and that's the conclusion I'd reached from following along with SAS threads. Awesome rig, btw!
Now let's talk about an 80 with a 2UZ swap...
I did a lot of research on putting one in my 80, but it’s a lot more work that it’s worth IMO. The vvti version with a 5 speed auto would be best, but still not much power over the 1fz for the work it takes. So, Im going to turbo the 1fz instead.
I am probably looking for a slightly toned down version ... Yes if I am going to make the investment I would likely capitalize and fit a set of 37's on ... I would like to avoid using spacers if possible, but if it is cost-prohibitive then I would be sticking to 80 series axles with radius arm. 4" lift maximum, so yes I am open to some sheet metal trimming. I can live without ABS and a part-time hub is probably my best option. Trail Talor's kit looks good, provides more articulation than I have now for sure but it's not 14" of travel, closer to 10" and I would be happy with that - as it's about a 100% increase in what I have now. I have done the all-out rock crawlers with ATLAS II cases and 60's and I am not looking for that level.
In short, my goal is to be able to drive a thousand miles up the freeway at 65mph or so and then complete the Rubicon with minimal body damage. I live here in AZ and have taken this stock truck up to Chivo Falls, which has some pretty good obstacles. I would like to be playing on the level of a triple-locked 80 series with 2.5" dobson lift and 35" tires ... I have seen many of these complete the Rubicon and other trails out here. I saw a lifted 200 series do the Rubicon, but with a LOT of winching and body damage. I can justify maybe 15K to 18K to get what I want - which isn't over the top but better than what I have to work with now. My truck has 90K miles on it, and is otherwise in mint condition. Any more investment and I would just sell it and buy an already built 80 ... but I will miss that V8.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
No night view
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Bolting on 80 series radius arms isn’t worth the time, effort, or money, IMO. Link it or keep IFS on the 100 and buy an 80.. You keep mentioning Rubicon, but IFS 100 with AHC have run the Rubicon multiple times. See @kreiten
Where’s the build thread on this beast?
You'll spend about 800 more for a diamond housing, but its worth it to not have 2" wheel spacers up front and a light years better housing with choice of 3rds. I am running 9.5" 200 series 3rds front and rear in mine with 32 spline rcv shafts up front. If you are thinking about going the diamond route, I have an extra set of RCV shafts for a 100 width diamond that I would give a great deal on.
I did part time. You can retain abs with the kit from marks in AU. Perfect time to install tcase gears while installing the spool, but thats another expense.
Your goals are about the same as mine, but I tow a small travel trailer occasionally and drive 5 over the speed limit. Probably wont use the truck for anything harder than pritchett, but I don't want anything to break, ever. Plus I like to drive fast over rough stuff.
Sounds like the trail tailor kit would work for you. My IFS 100 has 9" of front wheel travel with the extended length icons, but it still articulates like ifs.
With the way resale prices are, you would probably be able to get your money back out of the swap if you sold it. I kept my build all toyota just for that reason (tons would have made way more sense) but I doubt I will sell it any time soon.
Best advice I can give is to make a build spreadsheet with prices and part numbers, figure out what parts would be then talk to a few shops and get prices. Black Friday sales are coming up, best time to order 10k worth of parts.
Another hurdle right now is lead times on parts. usually takes Brian about 3 months to make a housing, and im sure he is busier than ever. Last set of king coilovers I ordered last black Friday, I got them in may. I had to wait 3 months for some of the off the shelf parts for the IFS build I just did. I got lucky and found some of the 105 parts stateside, but had to place a few international orders.
x10. I hate torsion bars in all forms, and radius arms turn the front axle housing into a giant torsion bar.
I haven't made one yet since this has been a backburner project for the last 2 years, the build would be really slow and boring. I will eventually make one though. I should have had this done a few times over, but I have built 4 other trucks since and just bought another... lolWhere’s the build thread on this beast?
