Solid axle swap on 100 (1 Viewer)

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You'll spend about 800 more for a diamond housing, but its worth it to not have 2" wheel spacers up front and a light years better housing with choice of 3rds. I am running 9.5" 200 series 3rds front and rear in mine with 32 spline rcv shafts up front. If you are thinking about going the diamond route, I have an extra set of RCV shafts for a 100 width diamond that I would give a great deal on.

I did part time. You can retain abs with the kit from marks in AU. Perfect time to install tcase gears while installing the spool, but thats another expense.

Your goals are about the same as mine, but I tow a small travel trailer occasionally and drive 5 over the speed limit. Probably wont use the truck for anything harder than pritchett, but I don't want anything to break, ever. Plus I like to drive fast over rough stuff.

Sounds like the trail tailor kit would work for you. My IFS 100 has 9" of front wheel travel with the extended length icons, but it still articulates like ifs.

With the way resale prices are, you would probably be able to get your money back out of the swap if you sold it. I kept my build all toyota just for that reason (tons would have made way more sense) but I doubt I will sell it any time soon.

Best advice I can give is to make a build spreadsheet with prices and part numbers, figure out what parts would be then talk to a few shops and get prices. Black Friday sales are coming up, best time to order 10k worth of parts.

Another hurdle right now is lead times on parts. usually takes Brian about 3 months to make a housing, and im sure he is busier than ever. Last set of king coilovers I ordered last black Friday, I got them in may. I had to wait 3 months for some of the off the shelf parts for the IFS build I just did. I got lucky and found some of the 105 parts stateside, but had to place a few international orders.
@peacesells63 (or anyone else that done the SAS) did you make a parts list for the 105 hubs by chance? I've been scouring the threads and can't find one. I found the link below, but I wanted some sort of verification before I just go ahead and start ordering parts. Do the parts in the link look accurate? And do I need ALL the parts or are there any crossover components between UZj100 & 105? Any input is appreciated. I hate to make an expensive mistake because I'm missing something.... Also curious how much you're selling those RCV shafts if you still have them?

 
@peacesells63 (or anyone else that done the SAS) did you make a parts list for the 105 hubs by chance? I've been scouring the threads and can't find one. I found the link below, but I wanted some sort of verification before I just go ahead and start ordering parts. Do the parts in the link look accurate? And do I need ALL the parts or are there any crossover components between UZj100 & 105? Any input is appreciated. I hate to make an expensive mistake because I'm missing something.... Also curious how much you're selling those RCV shafts if you still have them?

I looked in my purchase history, but could not find the part number For the wheel Hubs. They are 79/105 hubs, and the freewheel hubs are aisin Fht-001. When you buy wheel hubs, get the kit with bearings and studs, it’s much cheaper than buying everything separate. I can get part numbers when I’m on a computer.

I did not use anything except the calipers from the 100. Summit has dba rotors for a pretty good price, though it took 9 months to get them. I have a new set of stock 105 rotors I would sell as well. Send me a pm if you want to talk about that or the shafts
 
@peacesells63 (or anyone else that done the SAS) did you make a parts list for the 105 hubs by chance? I've been scouring the threads and can't find one. I found the link below, but I wanted some sort of verification before I just go ahead and start ordering parts. Do the parts in the link look accurate? And do I need ALL the parts or are there any crossover components between UZj100 & 105? Any input is appreciated. I hate to make an expensive mistake because I'm missing something.... Also curious how much you're selling those RCV shafts if you still have them?


Look up 105s on Gumtree (like Aussie eBay?). Snag a VIN, then just plop that in Partsouq. I used JTECB01JX01027050.

I couldn't find the DBAs anywhere, so I ended up with stock 105 rotors. They're way fun to ship across the world 🙄
 
No issues. Just waiting on a 6 week production lead from the laser cutter.

J
Thanks, more details... I do see now on your site it is clearly stated 6-7 week lead time now.

I'd like to see the coil perches and the brackets you offer for $2550.00 + shipping.

Is it literally hack out the IFS and lay your product in and go?

The mods to the axle are...?

It is marketed as a Bracket Kit.

Everyone is a 'competent welder/fabricator', or knows someone. The mini truck SAS backyard kits have been going strong for years...

A bit more info (without releasing trade secrets and high resolution CNC images) this could be a real game changer.

Is it a bolt on bracket kit?

Thanks for offering everything you do, a real asset to the community for sure.

@TRAIL TAILOR
 
has anyone done the trail tailor sas?

Yep.

For @YardPig: It's just brackets, and the work goes just as you describe. Chop/hack/grind/pray to the gods/invent new curses, repeat until IFS is gone. Lay up brackets according to measurements provided, and buzz them in. No bolts. On my '03, some rearranging of the emissions lines near the master cylinder were necessary. Slight bends to make room for the shock tower, NBD.

If you're using an 80 axle, you have to grind off the bell-shaped portion of the spring perch. The kit will include a bracket that welds to the axle that moves the perch out some. No other modifications to an 80 axle.

It can be done with the engine in place, but it sucks to get at the backsides of things—especially on the driver's side.

If ever there is a good time to do headers, it's when the IFS is out of the way. And plate, reinforce, or sleeve the frame where the steering box goes—an overenthusiastic alignment tech absolutely crushed my frame with a rattle gun when he thought the box "was a little loose". It wasn't :bang:. 100x as hard if you do it after the fact and have to pull a frame back into shape.

I'm on 35s now and inches away from rubbing anything—all I'd have to do is swap springs (and buy a taller house) to jump to 37s. The kit moves the hubs ~1" forward of stock.

You'll need a custom steering arm—the extra width of the frame on 100 vs 80 means the TREs are just lightly threaded into an 80-series length bar. The tie rod itself is fine (nothing changes from 80-series stock config), just the steering arm.
 
@saucebox Thank you for the detailed response. Im think of doing the sas on 06 lx esp since upper front control arms cost around $600. Would this be possible to do in the home garage withdecent welding skills? Any pictures you have of the procedure?
 
I have some pictures, but it was mostly a solo operation so not nearly as many as I'd like. Some pictures here: 2003 LX: SAS...or Sell - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2003-lx-sas-or-sell.1258868/

I did it in a home garage also that was way too tiny for my liking, but it worked.

Most of the welding is just sticking flat surfaces to other flat surfaces, so it's not super tough. I am by no means an expert welder, but it hasn't fallen apart yet, so...

By far the worst part is removing IFS. No way around it, the job just sucks.
 
Diff drop bracket and torsion bars another 650ish. And i already have a front and rear 80 series axle. And also you cant beat front and rear solid axle on a LC
 
I have some pictures, but it was mostly a solo operation so not nearly as many as I'd like. Some pictures here: 2003 LX: SAS...or Sell - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2003-lx-sas-or-sell.1258868/

I did it in a home garage also that was way too tiny for my liking, but it worked.

Most of the welding is just sticking flat surfaces to other flat surfaces, so it's not super tough. I am by no means an expert welder, but it hasn't fallen apart yet, so...

By far the worst part is removing IFS. No way around it, the job just sucks.
Thanks again. That link helps
 
As @saucebox says.. the removal of the IFS is a PITA. Especially if your rig is coated in oil and road salts. Go to the carwash and powerwash it, when you think its looks good... DO IT AGAIN!

I've sold 28 of these kits and 10-11 were guys on MUD. The remainder in Australia, NZ and S. Africa.

80 axle requires 2-2.5" wheel spacers (pending your wheel backspacing) This is the economy route. I make a custom full width axle or you can source from a few other axle builders.

I use 105 hubs, calipers, rotors to keep the 5 lug pattern as well. Or you can go all 80 and buy 6 to 5 x 2" wheel adapters.

I supply measurements and angles with the kit.

Bracket kit is pictured.


You will need:

80 axle with your choice of outers (or custom axle built to your specs)
To make the ABS work properly and function with NO CODE LIGHTS... you will need a ABS relo kit.
80 radius arms
80 steering box
steering shaft modification
80 series suspension of your choice
Panhard bar
Sway bar and links (if you choose to use)
Bolts and buts to attach axle to brackets
Power steering hose modification
If staying under 3" the stock driveshaft will be ok, if a taller lift you will need to lengthen

Sleeving the frame for the steering box... I've done it both ways pending frame condition.

I've pushed the axle forward 1" and that is about all you can do without having to start trimming sheetmetal in the front fenderwell region.


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Custom extended 100 SAS axle in the works with a TruHi 9 center, Strange Engineering/US gears 4.88 reverse cut gears, Daytona pinion flange, and RCV custom length/spline 300M axles. New 80 knuckle balls. Will get my custom knuckles and Hi-Steer arms as well.

J


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Anyone have a suggestion on wheel spacers. Sounds like 2" spacers are required to match the 80 front axle w/ the 100 rear axle. Spidertrax website only shows 200 series spacers as far as LCs are concerned. Cruiser Outfitters has 1.25" spacers. I've done web searches and the only thing that comes up is BONOSS spacers. They look and claim to be high quality, but they are made in China and I can't find any reviews.


Going to tear into my SAS project in 3 weeks. I have 98% of the parts I need.
 
Anyone have a suggestion on wheel spacers. Sounds like 2" spacers are required to match the 80 front axle w/ the 100 rear axle. Spidertrax website only shows 200 series spacers as far as LCs are concerned. Cruiser Outfitters has 1.25" spacers. I've done web searches and the only thing that comes up is BONOSS spacers. They look and claim to be high quality, but they are made in China and I can't find any reviews.


Going to tear into my SAS project in 3 weeks. I have 98% of the parts I need.

Bora will make any width spacer your heart desires.

 
Anyone have a suggestion on wheel spacers. Sounds like 2" spacers are required to match the 80 front axle w/ the 100 rear axle. Spidertrax website only shows 200 series spacers as far as LCs are concerned. Cruiser Outfitters has 1.25" spacers. I've done web searches and the only thing that comes up is BONOSS spacers. They look and claim to be high quality, but they are made in China and I can't find any reviews.


Going to tear into my SAS project in 3 weeks. I have 98% of the parts I need.

If you have a few more weeks (5?), I'll give you mine. 2.5" Boras (you need 5" total), just going to a custom axle instead (needed to stop the bleeding last year, funds replenished now haha). FWIW they've been great, no issues at all if you choose to get a set made to speed up the timeline.
 

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