Solid axle swap on 100 (1 Viewer)

[hoser]

A 105 is essentially a 100 body on an 80 chassis. I didn't want that. I don't even want the 80 suspension that's under my 80. For me, the only way a solid axle swap would be worth it is if the truck drives better and is more capable than an older truck. Plus, we can't legally import 105's for a few more years.

I agree, if going through all the trouble of an SAS, I wouldn't use 80 components. Radius arm design is fine but if you use the exact 80 components (OE Radius arms, springs, shocks, coil buckets), you'll have less articulation than an 80. The reason? The front frame section is wider on the 100 by over 4"

 

[LX470Beast]

Just a thought that has been going through my head for a while.. I really love the guts of the 80 series. Mostly the solid front axle. But love the comfort of the 100. Would I be better off somehow getting ahold of a 80 frame and putting the body of the 100 on it or just doing the swap? Thoughts ??

If you want a SAS 100 on steroids, daily driven proven reliability 40k miles since build, with 80 series parts, fully maintained. I willing to sell mine at a right price. (Got a lx570 and want a LC 500)

 

[dividedan]

If you want a SAS 100 on steroids, daily driven proven reliability 40k miles since build, with 80 series parts, fully maintained. I willing to sell mine at a right price. (Got a lx570 and want a LC 500)

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Is that uptravel maxed out in this pic?

 

[LX470Beast]

Is that uptravel maxed out in this pic?

I don’t know, it was the builder that took the picture.

 

[nukegoat]

x10. I hate torsion bars in all forms, and radius arms turn the front axle housing into a giant torsion bar.

I like torsion bars for sway bars

 

[Roosevelt T]

I am probably looking for a slightly toned down version ... Yes if I am going to make the investment I would likely capitalize and fit a set of 37's on ... I would like to avoid using spacers if possible, but if it is cost-prohibitive then I would be sticking to 80 series axles with radius arm. 4" lift maximum, so yes I am open to some sheet metal trimming. I can live without ABS and a part-time hub is probably my best option. Trail Talor's kit looks good, provides more articulation than I have now for sure but it's not 14" of travel, closer to 10" and I would be happy with that - as it's about a 100% increase in what I have now. I have done the all-out rock crawlers with ATLAS II cases and 60's and I am not looking for that level.

In short, my goal is to be able to drive a thousand miles up the freeway at 65mph or so and then complete the Rubicon with minimal body damage. I live here in AZ and have taken this stock truck up to Chivo Falls, which has some pretty good obstacles. I would like to be playing on the level of a triple-locked 80 series with 2.5" dobson lift and 35" tires ... I have seen many of these complete the Rubicon and other trails out here. I saw a lifted 200 series do the Rubicon, but with a LOT of winching and body damage. I can justify maybe 15K to 18K to get what I want - which isn't over the top but better than what I have to work with now. My truck has 90K miles on it, and is otherwise in mint condition. Any more investment and I would just sell it and buy an already built 80 ... but I will miss that V8.

I cant understand going SAS for that amount of travel. I think the guy who DIY'd his long travel IFS suspension on here got around 11" of travel.

 

[dividedan]

I cant understand going SAS for that amount of travel. I think the guy who DIY'd his long travel IFS suspension on here got around 11" of travel.

Totally. I wonder what @TRAIL TAILOR is getting for travel on his kit. That pic above on the flex ramp makes that truck look very tippy. Seems like you gotta cut some sheet metal to get proper up-travel out of these puppies. @nukegoat what kind of travel did your LX end up with?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Totally. I wonder what @TRAIL TAILOR is getting for travel on his kit. That pic above on the flex ramp makes that truck look very tippy. Seems like you gotta cut some sheet metal to get proper up-travel out of these puppies. @nukegoat what kind of travel did your LX end up with?

Depends on the shock and coil set up.

This is a simple 3" lift with internal valved shocks (less stroke 10.75") and 34s with sway bars attached.

J

 

[dividedan]

Depends on the shock and coil set up.

This is a simple 3" lift with internal valved shocks (less stroke 10.75") and 34s with sway bars attached.

J

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How’s the up travel on the front? Can you tuck the front wheel much?

 

[nukegoat]

Totally. I wonder what @TRAIL TAILOR is getting for travel on his kit. That pic above on the flex ramp makes that truck look very tippy. Seems like you gotta cut some sheet metal to get proper up-travel out of these puppies. @nukegoat what kind of travel did your LX end up with?

About 5.5". But the tire stuffs more when flexed. If you're doing a SAS or anything significant with suspension and tires, doing yourself the favor of adding sheet metal mods to your list will give you a lot more flexibility.

I know I sound like a hater here but I wouldn't bother doing a SAS unless you're trying to do something more radical than run 35s.

 

[dividedan]

About 5.5". But the tire stuffs more when flexed. If you're doing a SAS or anything significant with suspension and tires, doing yourself the favor of adding sheet metal mods to your list will give you a lot more flexibility.

I know I sound like a hater here but I wouldn't bother doing a SAS unless you're trying to do something more radical than run 35s.

Makes a lot of sense. I would love to see a SAS and modified rear on a 100 that pushes the axles forward and rearward an inch or two to get the tires out of the doors/cab. Stellar Built is doing that with their 4th gen Runner.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

How’s the up travel on the front? Can you tuck the front wheel much?

About 5.5". But the tire stuffs more when flexed. If you're doing a SAS or anything significant with suspension and tires, doing yourself the favor of adding sheet metal mods to your list will give you a lot more flexibility.

I know I sound like a hater here but I wouldn't bother doing a SAS unless you're trying to do something more radical than run 35s.

Agree. Mine, Donnie's and possibly @Shortpencils will all be getting true 37-39" tires and 4-6" lifts on top of that.

 

[nukegoat]

Makes a lot of sense. I would love to see a SAS and modified rear on a 100 that pushes the axles forward and rearward an inch or two to get the tires out of the doors/cab. Stellar Built is doing that with their 4th gen Runner.

That's what I did..wheelbase probably 115 now.

 

[dividedan]

That's what I did..wheelbase probably 115 now.

So what’s the limiting factor for travel is it still the body/fenders?

 

[peacesells63]

Makes a lot of sense. I would love to see a SAS and modified rear on a 100 that pushes the axles forward and rearward an inch or two to get the tires out of the doors/cab. Stellar Built is doing that with their 4th gen Runner.

That's what I did..wheelbase probably 115 now.

Same here

 

[peacesells63]

So what’s the limiting factor for travel is it still the body/fenders?

Those and if you are doing a 3 link, upper link clearance. There can also be oil filter/pan clearance and panhard/drag link on the passenger side frame.

 

[nukegoat]

So what’s the limiting factor for travel is it still the body/fenders?

Lots of things. For me the pumpkin is in the motor past that

 

[Escape Artist]

I'm more interested, and willing to spend more on down travel ... up travel is not a concern for my application. As long as it's at least what the stock ifs uptravel is then I'm good.

 

[TrailBornRunner]

Makes a lot of sense. I would love to see a SAS and modified rear on a 100 that pushes the axles forward and rearward an inch or two to get the tires out of the doors/cab. Stellar Built is doing that with their 4th gen Runner.

I ended up pushing my axle forward 2 inches, 114" now. After the pinch weld hammering from fitting 35s on stock ifs, I have no issue with tire rubbing on 37s(-44 offset). Haven't measured my actual travel yet, but the factory rear is limiting me at the moment, triag 4 link is in the future. RTI score might be somewhere in the 900s after some calculations.

 

[dividedan]

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I ended up pushing my axle forward 2 inches, 114" now. After the pinch weld hammering from fitting 35s on stock ifs, I have no issue with tire rubbing on 37s(-44 offset). Haven't measured my actual travel yet, but the factory rear is limiting me at the moment, triag 4 link is in the future. RTI score might be somewhere in the 900s after some calculations.

Dang nice work! Looks to be pretty good up travel on this photo.