g-man
SILVER Star
longest line first. I think it is drivers rear, then passenger rear, then drivers front, passengers front.
Soft and Fading Brakes - Adjust or Replace? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter PVCsnorkel
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I did it all correctly except for the brake load proportioning valve and having the bottom of the tube in some fluid, I had it dripping into a jug. That mistake may have actually benefitted me though, as the old fluid was terribly dirty and I wouldn't want to suck a bunch of crap back into the system. Since I already have the master on the way, I think I'll replace it as an abundance of caution, I'm sure its pretty worm anyway.
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
Have you checked the master cylinder push rod, to make sure the clearance is within spec? I'm not sure about the 60, but on a 62 I believe the specified clearance is 0mm.
@PVCsnorkel I have the tool required for what @diesellibrarian is talking about if you wanna borrow it.
- Thread starter
- #25
@diesellibrarian I have not, are they prone to falling out of adjustment? I was under the impression that they only need to be set when changing the booster or master?
@CruiserTrash Yes Please! I screwed up the brakes real bad on my old F150 cause the rod was out of adjustment real bad.
@CruiserTrash Yes Please! I screwed up the brakes real bad on my old F150 cause the rod was out of adjustment real bad.
- Thread starter
- #26
I'm revisting the brakes on my 60 as they're having a new but similar issue.
I replaced the front soft lines and now you have to press the brake pedal down 80%+ before it starts to grab. However when it just about hits the bottom it grabs harder than it ever has. Pumping the brakes has no effect on it.
I'm thinking the booster rod needs to be adjusted?
I replaced the front soft lines and now you have to press the brake pedal down 80%+ before it starts to grab. However when it just about hits the bottom it grabs harder than it ever has. Pumping the brakes has no effect on it.
I'm thinking the booster rod needs to be adjusted?
Brake Booster Pushrod Adjustment tool
This tool is used to set the booster push rod position to interface with the master cylinder. Free, just pay shipping
landtankproducts.com
This guy gives away this tool for free, just pay shipping.
Also, go through the entire brake adjustment protocol in the FSM in order, part of which is adjusting the pedal. Make sure everything is thoroughly bled first though. I recommend a mighty vac (or cheapo Amazon equivalent). Pull a vac on the bleeder, have Jojo pump the brakes 3 times and hold. Release the bleeder for appx 1-1.5 second and close it before Jo's foot goes totally to the floor. You'll get a feel for it, you don't want all of the brake pedal pressure to be totally gone. Pump the vac and do it again. Order is back left, back right, front left, front right. Surprisingly the brake line routing to the front left is longer than to the front right, even though the front left is directly under the MC. Karen and I have this process down pretty good after doing it a few times. Note that aftermarket caliper bleeder threads are going to be a bit of a loose fit on OEM bleeder valves (which are available new! Rubber caps too!), so sometimes a front caliper is going to feel like you're getting endless fizzy bubbles. Pretty sure it's drawing air through the threads, not continuous air in the line.
- Thread starter
- #28
Brake Booster Pushrod Adjustment tool
This tool is used to set the booster push rod position to interface with the master cylinder. Free, just pay shippinglandtankproducts.com
This guy gives away this tool for free, just pay shipping.
Also, go through the entire brake adjustment protocol in the FSM in order, part of which is adjusting the pedal.
I bled the fronts with a Hobo Freight hand vacuum, it worked pretty well. I did see the fizziness you referenced, so that makes me feel better about how I bled them.
Good looks on the tool. I was considering ordering one from City Racer, but was trying to think of a way to do it without buying one.
Got a link for the FSM? I think I have one, but sitting here at work I'm trying to remember if I do or if its still packed away from our move. Btw, we have big news to that end I have to update you with later this week...
Resource tab at the top of the page my man! It'll be in the Chassis & Body manual.
I need to respond to your texts too, been a hell of a couple weeks over here.
- Thread starter
- #30
Sweet!!! Thanks.
No worries, I totally get that. I've been going to work to relax lately hahaha.
I have the brake booster gauge tool if you need to borrow it. I can ship it to you on Wednesday. PM me if this would be of help.
Also, make sure that your bell cranks for the emergency brakes and the e-brake cable is adjusted properly. If they are not within spec, these can cause the rear brakes to drag.
Cheers, James
- Thread starter
- #32
I ordered one from the link Jim sent me, but thank you for the offer!
I was reading the FSM today, and I think my rear brakes might actually be a little under adjusted. The handle comes up almost all the way before it holds.
Just be aware the bell cranks and cable adjusters do two different things. Make sure you do the bell rank first, then the cable.
- Thread starter
- #34
Which part is the bell crank?
Here’s a picture that I grabbed from another member. The adjustment screw is behind the brake plate which you can see in the picture.There is one on each side behind the drum. The FSM has the instructions on how to adjust these.
- Thread starter
- #36
I started working down the list of brake adjustments in the FSM.
No. 1 - Pedal Height
My pedal was way to low, so I adjusted that back to where it should be. Brakes feel much better and its not going to the floor anymore to stop.
However it doesn't have enough power to stop completely above 20mph. Onto Adjustment #2
No. 2 - Pedal Freeplay
This is where I expected to have the biggest issue. Sure enough the Pedal travels twice what it should before it engages the master cylinder. The Pedal should have 1/8"-1/4" of freeplay. It currently has 1/2". I have a pushrod adjusting tool on the way (thanks for the link @CruiserTrash ). Once that gets here I'll set the push rod length and see how it does.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel finally!!
No. 1 - Pedal Height
My pedal was way to low, so I adjusted that back to where it should be. Brakes feel much better and its not going to the floor anymore to stop.
However it doesn't have enough power to stop completely above 20mph. Onto Adjustment #2
No. 2 - Pedal Freeplay
This is where I expected to have the biggest issue. Sure enough the Pedal travels twice what it should before it engages the master cylinder. The Pedal should have 1/8"-1/4" of freeplay. It currently has 1/2". I have a pushrod adjusting tool on the way (thanks for the link @CruiserTrash ). Once that gets here I'll set the push rod length and see how it does.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel finally!!
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One thing worth mentioning is to check your brake light switch while you are doing the pedal adjustments. Some of us have had issues where the switch has been adjusted too far down and interferes with the brake pedal return, causing the booster and subsequently the master cylinder to not retract fully.
Glad to see you are well on your way to brake nirvana.
Cheers, James
